Winds of change blowing into sleepy, little Loreto
SUE FRAUSE
Province
The sun sets behind the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, a landmark in historic Loreto on the Baja California peninsula in Mexico. SUE FRAUSE — FOR THE PROVINCE
Snorkelling in the warm, azure waters of the Sea of Cortez is one of the many adventures awaiting visitors to Loreto. SUE FRAUSE — FOR THE PROVINCE
A book to consider is Loreto, Baja California: First Mission and Capital of Spanish California, by Ann and Don O’Neil (Longitude Books).
Posada de Las Flores is a 15-room boutique hotel in Loreto featuring a rooftop glass-bottom swimming pool. SUE FRAUSE — FOR THE PROVINCE
I knew Loreto was a laid-back sort of town when I arrived at the small airport after the twohour flight from Los Angeles.
Emerging from the baggageclaim area was a surfer dude hauling a large, padded bag, probably containing his surfboard or a kite sail.
“Nice cello!” I jokingly remarked to the sun-tanned beach boy. He didn’t miss a beat and replied, “It’s only my mom.”
That’s Loreto. Located on the eastern shores of Baja California Sur and the Sea of Cortez, Loreto was once a political and religious capital. It was established as California’s first settlement by explorer and Jesuit Juan Maria Salvatierra in 1697.
Today, the Mision de Nuestra Señora de Loreto has been restored and regally rises above this city of 10,000 people.
As I stroll through the historic district of Loreto underneath the Indian laurels that form archways (Loreto means “laurel” in Spanish), two young boys head home on their bicycles.
Shopkeepers on the Paseo Salvatierra sit outside their stores that offer T-shirts, hats, pottery and silver. The mission bells sound at 6:45 p.m., calling people to mass. It’s Friday night in Loreto.
But this seemingly sleepy little village has been discovered. With Alaska Airlines now flying to Loreto three times a week and a new sustainable community under construction by the Loreto Bay Company, change is a comin’ to this community.
The Villages of Loreto Bay is a $3-billion US project to be built over 15 years, resulting in a sustainable community of nearly 6,000 homes on 3,200 hectares (more than half of the area will be a natural preserve).
Headed by chairman David Butterfield of Victoria (developer of Shoal Point on Victoria’s harbour, among other projects), the Loreto Bay Company is working in partnership with FONATUR, Mexico’s tourism development agency that is responsible for such resorts as Ixtapa and Cancun.
The project will include beach and golf clubs, seven spas, an artisans’ village along with retail and entertainment venues.
The pedestrian-oriented community will have “car-free” neighbourhoods, with bicycles and electric carts being the primary mode of transportation.
Hollywood has also discovered Loreto. While enjoying a sunset margarita atop the roof garden of Posada de las Flores, a 15-room boutique hotel in the heart of the city, the conversation swirled around about this year’s season finale of The Bachelor that was filmed in Loreto.
But there was nary a trace of Charlie O’Connell who starred in the now-defunct reality TV series.
Outdoor adventures
With its warm, azure waters, Loreto is all about outdoor adven- tures.
After breakfast one morning, some friends and I boarded the “El Don,” a 66-foot yacht moored at El Puertos Escondidos.
We spent the day cruising the waters of the National Loreto Marine Park, the largest marine park in Mexico.
Sitting in the sun at the bow of the boat we watch scissor birds dive for fish, a school of dolphins joins us for a pre-lunch frolic and all around us it’s arid and blue.
Surrounded by the vast Sierra de la Giganta Mountains, the scenery is spectacular. I’d never before seen cactus growing so close to the water.
The nearby islands of Coronado, Carmen, Danzante and Monserrat make for ideal day trips.
We anchor and snorkel at a spot the captain called Honeymoon Beach and back on the boat, sip piña coladas while listening to Mexican pop music star Luis Miguel on the CD player.
The next day we make a pilgrimage by van to the Mision de San Francisco Javier, located 36 km west of Loreto.
With the energetic and knowledgeable Cecelia Fischer of C&C Tours as our guide, we bounce along unpaved roads, stopping along the way to see cave paintings, a 300-year-old fig tree and the first chapel in Loreto.
Under the hot noontime sun, we reach the Mision de San Francisco Javier, called “The Queen of the Missions,” as it’s the best-preserved mission in the area.
Constructed of stone blocks, it was founded by Padre Francisco Maria Piccolo in 1699.
We enjoy a casual lunch outdoors at Restaurant La Palapa San Javier, just a stone’s throw from the mission. While a lone rooster crows, we dine on enchiladas and sip on cold Mexican beer.
Back in Loreto
After visiting the Mision of Loreto on Plaza Salvatierra (it has a store with religious souvenirs, including miracle charms or milagros), we stop by the Museo de la Misions.
Here you’ll learn the story of the missionaries in Baja (take a guided tour as many of the information panels are only in Spanish).
The museum’s bookstore is a good resource for the history of the Californias and surrounding states.
You won’t be disappointed in the cuisine of Loreto. Canipole is a fine family-run restaurant featuring yummy molé while Pachamama dishes up Argentinian food.
Amore restaurant, located at Villas de Loreto (a resort owned by Ron Bellerive and Wendy Wilchynski, originally from Vancouver) is a casual-dining establishment and is known for its Carne Asada Especial (along with their margaritas).
And don’t forget the all-important siesta . . . it’s the Loreto way.
If you go
Alaska Airlines:
www.alaskaair.com, 1-800.ALASKAAIR — three weekly flights from Los Angeles to Loreto.
Loreto: www.loreto.com
Loreto Bay Company:
www.loretobay.com, 877-865-6738.
Posada de las Flores:
www.posadadelasflores. com, 61-135-1162.
Villas de Loreto:
www.villasdeloreto.com, 613-135-0586.
C&C Ground Services & Tours: 613-135-0525.
