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Archive for September, 2006
Where tacos are a religion
Thursday, September 7th, 2006The idea for the Taco Shack took shape for Benefield while growing up in California
Mia Stainsby
Sun
If the guy making your tacos looks like he could tackle a Volkswagen Beetle, that would be Daved Benefield, who, until recently, was a defensive end for the Saskatchewan Roughriders, and before that, the B.C. Lions.
In fact, this little patch of Cornwall Avenue has got gridiron action goin’ on. Noah Cantor of the Toronto Argonauts is involved not only in Taco Shack, but in the next-door Vera’s Burgers. (Cantor and partner Gerald Tritt have been opening up Vera’s Burgers like men possessed. The seventh will be opening on Main Street soon.)
Taco Shack was Benefield’s idea. He feasted on tacos as a kid in California, and all the way through university. “It was a religion with him,” says partner Tritt. “You practice [football] and you have tacos. He’s the chief cook and bottle washer.” Taco Shack has become something of a Lions’ den, attracting players like Brent Johnson and Javier Glatt from the team.
Like the taco trucks he’s used to, Benefield kept this place simple. Really simple. There’s chicken, steak or fish tacos — three for $6.89. Or, you can opt for a quesadilla or a mitt-ful of burrito, also $6.89 each. That’s it. That’s the menu.
The tortillas taste nice and fresh and that’s because they’re made every day, from scratch.
Simple, simple, simple. You roll up your sleeves and dig in. I added another step: splatter sauce on clothing.
The popular little place has had lineups since they opened in July. It’s open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and in January, Taco Shack will be swapping places with Flying Wedge Pizza, at 1915 Cornwall, a couple doors east.
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TACO SHACK
1935 Cornwall St., 604-239-5102
© The Vancouver Sun 2006
Gourmands find a bit of France in West Van
Thursday, September 7th, 2006Recently opened, but with a family link to La Regalade, this is a true discovery for lovers of rustic bistro cuisine with a seafood speciality
Mia Stainsby
Sun
Fans of West Vancouver’s La Regalade will be thrilled. There’s a sequel.
La Regalade Cote Mer concentrates on seafood, but like La Regalade the first, the rustic French bistro food divines the mysteries of deliciousness. It’s not perfectly groomed and refined food; it’s honest and straight-forward with seductively assertive flavours. It makes my heart pound and my mouth water.
Upon finishing a meal of tuna tartare, beef cheeks in a dark, glassy, wine sauce and ile flottante, my husband declared, “I’ve reached nirvana. This is bliss.”
La Regalade Cote Mer is buried deep in West Vancouver, almost at Horseshoe Bay, across from Thunderbird Marina in a location where restaurants come and go with such regularity it should be a lesson to the next taker. That is, unless it happens to be the Raye family. This second Raye venture is operated by son, Steeve, 25, who returned from cooking at a restaurant in Belgium to oversee the operation.
The restaurant was open for a couple of weeks when I visited and I was astonished at word-of-mouth velocity. I tried to reserve the same day a couple of times and couldn’t get in. And when I did, the place was packed with West Van’s older, well-established demography. One night, I saw Douglas Coupland walk in, only to be turned away.
It was a little early to be critiquing the place, but I could not wait. And yes, there were some service glitches but I’m aware that it was freshly opened and they were slammed. There was French music; servers were dressed in the striped French mariners top, jeans and long waiters’ aprons. There was plenty of staff and there’s lots of hustle and bustle.
One Sunday evening the senior Rayes were pitching in on their day off from the Ambleside restaurant. Mom Brigitte Raye contributed immensely to the convincingly French feel of the place. “Bon soir!” she says in that singsong French welcome. Dad Alain was cooking like mad with Steeve.
The menu changes frequently and about two thirds of the menu had changed from one week to the next. On my first visit, one of the chalkboard menus (quaintly, but awkwardly lugged from table to table) was almost exclusively seafood; on the second, there were three meat dishes, at the request of diners.
On our two visits, we enjoyed a dish piled high with lightly deepfried white “baitfish”; crab and avocado salad; a beautifully grilled snapper with skin crisply seared, served over braised fennel; a helmet-sized bowl of bourride (fish stew); scallop carpaccio and onion tart (delectable); a velvety tuna tartare in mustard mayo; fillet of salmon with creamed leeks and bacon; beef cheeks in red wine with potato gnocchi. Most of the dishes come with a cone of perfectly cooked french fries. The potato gnocchi was the best I’d had with an incredible lightness of bearing. My only criticism was of the creamed leeks and bacon, which I felt was too heavy; my husband completely disagreed, with a countering “Mmmm,” upon tasting its richness.
Meals are big and burly, leaving only room for shared desserts. We had plum tart and ile flottante (absolutely sumptuous). Food is served in hefty portions, sometimes in rustic pots or Le Creuset ovenware.
If you’re thinking, yeah, but, it’s so far to drive, just remember, people go all the way to France for food like this. In fact, sitting on the patio, if it weren’t for the blue buses roaring by on Marine Drive, you’d swear you were there, in France.
LA REGALADE COTE MER
Overall: 4
Food: 4 1/2
Ambience: 4
Service: 3 1/2
Price $$/$$$
5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-921-9701. Open Wednesday to Sunday for dinner; Friday to Sunday for lunch.
Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five.
© The Vancouver Sun 2006
Vegas firm bets on Vancouver casino
Wednesday, September 6th, 2006Bruce Constantineau
Sun
Las Vegas-based casino operator Paragon Gaming — the new owners of the Edgewater Casino in downtown Vancouver — will endeavour to reverse the financially troubled casino’s fortunes by taking several steps over the next few months to boost attendance at the 18-month-old facility, Paragon vice-president Yale Rowe said Tuesday.
Paragon paid $42 million to buy the casino last week from original owners Gary Jackson and Len Libin and become the first foreign owners of a B.C. casino. The Edgewater operation, located in the Plaza of Nations, was about $30 million in debt when it filed for court protection from its creditors four months ago, and the sale means creditors will be paid in full.
Rowe said Paragon plans to increase business at the casino by:
– Enhancing exterior signage.
– Upgrading food and beverage operations.
– Ensuring casino facilities reflect the city’s multicultural makeup.
– Improving the mix of gambling options.
– Increasing parking facilities.
– Increasing casino entertainment. options by adding comedy festivals, concerts, and community and cultural events.
Rowe said Paragon is already working with city officials to find a way to improve signage at the casino without being gaudy or overbearing.
“They really don’t want to see some casino come in and start blasting these big Vegas signs all over the place,” he said in an interview. “But they understand the need to hang your shingle out front so folks will know you’re in business. Right now, there’s very low curb appeal.”
Rowe said the new owners plan to change the casino kitchen so they can improve food offerings and create more of a destination food environment than the “quasi snack bar” that exists now.
They also plan to increase the number of table games at the casino, and increase the number of poker tables from four to 10.
Paragon has a lease to operate the casino at its current location until 2013, but it could relocate sooner than that if it decides to expand into more of a destination-resort complex, with a hotel and other facilities.
“We haven’t mapped out our long-term plan yet, but we’d certainly like to expand on what’s there,” Rowe said.
Paragon chief executive officer Diana Bennett, daughter of the late legendary Las Vegas casino operator and Circus Circus co-founder William Bennett, said she wants to make Edgewater the “premier destination casino” in the Vancouver market.
Paragon operates casinos in the western U.S., and is currently developing two projects on First Nations properties in Alberta — the River Cree Resort & Casino in Edmonton, and the Alexis Casino and Travel Plaza in Woodlands County.
© The Vancouver Sun 2006