Ample portions of low-key meals at low-key prices


Thursday, February 15th, 2007

Owner George Panago expands Steveston’s menu of steak and seafood with schnitzel, souvlaki and pasta at his two-year-old establishment

Tara Lee
Sun

Marilyn Davis (left) and Linda Owen share a dessert at Correli’s Restaurant in Steveston. Photograph by : Glenn Baglo, Vancouver Sun

Nestled in Steveston Village, Correli’s Restaurant woos patrons with ample portions of well-executed, uncomplicated food.

The warmth of the service reflects a restaurant that takes a sincere, straightforward approach to pleasing the appetites of its patrons.

Owner George Panago, who has worked in the industry for 32 years, wanted to change the Steveston dining scene when he opened Correli’s more than two years ago.

“In Steveston, two or three years ago, you could only get steak and seafood,” he says. “After being in business for so long, I knew what people wanted. “

Panago’s response to this dining monotony was a menu that offers a mix of pasta, souvlaki, schnitzel, steak and seafood entrees that defy a single national categorization.

Panago describes the restaurant as “comfortable and not too plush — no white linen and crystal ware.” And by the looks of the packed room on a Friday night, the establishment is a winning recipe with Steveston crowds.

If only the bread basket was equally inviting. We passed on the offering of generic white bread and went straight to the starters — pan-fried oysters ($6.75) and deep-fried calamari ($6.50). The oysters were sizable and the calamari generously portioned, albeit weighted down by breaded coating.

Numerous overcooked steak incidents have taught my sister the value of insistence. Fortunately, her New York steak ($17.95) arrived blue rare, convincingly peppered and accompanied with perfectly cooked clam linguine with a healthy dose of garlic.

Meanwhile, my schnitzel Oskar ($14.50) topped with a garlic lemon cream sauce and a sprinkling of shrimp, dominated my platter alongside a helping of pan-fried potatoes. The meat was tender and the sauce was rich without being smothering. The vegetables, though, were bland and uninspiring.

We ended the meal with the bacio bianco ($4.95), a white chocolate ice cream globe with raspberry filling and a white chocolate coating. While it was unremarkable and definitely not made in house, it fulfilled our yearnings for something sweet.

All in all, a pleasant evening out for two diners seeking a low-key meal at low-key prices.

Tara Lee is a freelance writer.

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AT A GLANCE

Correli’s Restaurant

160 – 3900 Bayview, Richmond

604-272-7264

Open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 



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