Landmark seafood restaurant dishes out a tasty bit of Steveston charm in each and every dish
Michelle Hopkins
Sun
Shady Island Seafood Bar & Grill executive chef Tyler Day, 25, displays some of the Steveston restaurant’s signature seafood dishes in the unique dining area. Photograph by : Steve Bosch, Vancouver Sun
SHADY ISLAND SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL
112-3800 Bayview St.
Richmond
Phone: 604-275-6587
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Once home to 15 canneries, today the vibrant, historic and picturesque Steveston Village houses a plethora of wonderful restaurants, many on the waterfront.
Steps away from the boardwalk is Shady Island Seafood Bar & Grill, a landmark restaurant where you can enjoy the atmosphere of dining in a river port town, while watching fishing vessels and boats dance in and out of the harbour.
It’s a beautiful, warm Saturday night and Steveston is bustling with locals and visitors alike. We walk into the popular eatery, thankful we have a reservation because it’s chock full of patrons, many of them locals like me.
The restaurant — with rich, deep weather-worn hardwood floors, expansive windows that open to a sweeping view of the mighty Fraser and a décor befitting a quaint waterfront eatery — has been here for a few decades. It has earned a reputation for its famous fish and chips and oysters; whole Atlantic lobster and B.C. Dungeness crab; its curried prawns and grilled scallops; and its signature Cannery Row seafood platter for two, to name just a few.
Our friendly waiter, Chris Michaels, has worked here for more than seven years and is also the marketing director. He escorts us to our table with a smile. Right away, we are offered water and the menu.
We scan the well-thought-out list of savoury appetizers and ponder ordering a bowl of the succulent Mama’s award-winning seafood chowder, a hearty Manhattan red. Dennis and I decide to split the B.C. crab cakes, but alas, they are sold out. Momentarily disappointed, we choose the roasted garlic and Camembert ($13.95), which came drizzled with a mouth-watering mango and raspberry coulis, and French bread for dipping. It proved to be a delicious alternative.
For the main course — the seafood selection is more than accommodating for even the most discerning customer — I selected the hot Caesar salad ($17.95), which is accompanied by fresh halibut, wild salmon and prawns. Lightly bathed in a creamy dressing and served with shaved parmesan and croutons, it was a wonderful dish. Dennis chose the savoury Cajun halibut special, grilled to perfection and served with a brandied pesto cream sauce and garlic prawns ($25.95), a palate pleaser.
There is a level of freshness and creativity that is second to none here. It’s no wonder it’s a favourite amongst Stevestonites. The owner, Gerry Biggar, is a hands-on guy, and one who knows Steveston, having called it home for decades.
He recently hired executive chef Tyler Day. I was surprised to discover that Day is only 25 years old. This young chef is clearly talented. He trained at a couple of New York City‘s and England‘s finest restaurants. He even trained at Vancouver‘s renowned Bishop’s Restaurant before heading to the Big Apple to further hone his skills.
Day was smart enough not to take away any of the restaurant’s signature dishes, but he did admit he put his own stamp on a few. He is, however, responsible for the tantalizing halibut Dennis raved about and for introducing a number of fresh-sheet culinary delights.
Let the restaurant’s sommelier, Tomonari Machida, offer up his wine-pairing suggestions. Machida, who is responsible for the restaurant’s revamped and fine wine selection, invited us to try a Pepperwood Grove Zinfandel (California) red to go with our entrees. It was smooth and full-bodied, just the way I like it.
Seafood is the specialty, but if it’s not your preference, there are options such as grilled chicken penne, a New York strip loin and homemade mac and cheese.
If you have any room left for dessert, Shady Island is known for its decadent crème brulee and tasty fruit crumble. I can say from experience that both melt in your mouth.
Meanwhile, you can reserve a seat in the Vicky, an original 1942 gillnet vessel, which has been converted into a cozy and private little oasis perfect for a tete-a-tete or a party of six. It sits suspended between the main and upper floors of the restaurant.
Come for the ambience and return for some of the best seafood around. Shady Island Seafood Bar & Grill seats 120 inside and 100 on the two patios outside. Reservations are recommended on weekends.
By the way, the upstairs is soon to be converted into a wine bar, but the gorgeous antique bar stays.
© The Vancouver Sun 2008
