Sun
Archive for August, 2008
Oh-my-God moments at Cibo
Thursday, August 28th, 2008TRATTORIA Revitalized Italian cooking brings out bliss and shows off taste of local ingredients
Mia Stansby
Sun
Recently, I wrote about the hot action around Trattoria Italian Kitchen on West Fourth, where really good-deal meals and super-friendly service created bonfires of excitement inside the room and out the door.
And now there’s Cibo in the Moda Hotel, another great little trattoria. It’s part of a welcome resurrection of French and Italian food in the city, and these cuisines have returned in better form than ever. The focus is on fabulous local ingredients and cooking that opens up their inner beauty. That’s always been the way in Italy, and now it’s the way of the revitalized Italian food here.
Cibo is a little more “downtown-y” and refined — and, certainly, more expensive — than Trat Italian Kitchen (although still casual).
My first visit was just after its quiet opening, and it needed more buzz. The joint was not jumping.
“Maybe a reviewer will come in,” a hotel guest said to the hostess as she checked out the place for dinner later. (That was the one time I really wanted to out myself as a critic, since a neighbouring diner was going on and on about how all restaurant critics are fat. “I’m a Size 2,” I wanted to inform Ms. Know-It-All. But I digress.)
On a later visit to Cibo, we blissed out over many of the dishes. The chef, Neil Taylor, obviously takes pride in what he does. (He has cooked at the celebrated River Cafe in London, where Jamie Oliver was discovered and where fresh, vibrant ingredients are most important.)
Taylor’s skill showed in the first food to hit the table, the bread. (Actually, it was ciabatta.) It was oh-my-God delicious. A nice crunch to the crust, tall and spongy inside. It came with excellent olive oil. Of course, I was nearly full by the time I finished half the basket, but, my goodness, was it ever worth it.
Another surprise was the calf’s liver. I normally take a wide detour around it, thanks to having been tortured with it as a kid. But this was good, its mild flavour enhanced with pancetta.
“Silk pasta sheets” with yellow beans, potatoes and pesto took pasta to another level. It really was sheer, like silk.
Another pasta, lobster tagliatelle, featured lovely noodles, but the lobster was tough.
“Smashed” heirloom tomato and basil salad was transcendent. It was perfectly seasoned with quality salt — so good, in fact, that I tipped the bowl, glug-glugging the remaining juices, cutting loose from civilized behaviour.
Prawn brodo (broth) was delicate and featured very fresh prawns.
My seared scallops were large and plump and fine but didn’t distinguish themselves.
And I’ve never been infected by the eagerness for stuffed zucchini flower (with ricotta, in this case). Although it’s fun to cook with a large flower blossom, the result is too limp and lame. I can’t say it was any different here. I’d rather it were stuffed with something sturdier.
Char-grilled leg of lamb with potato, artichoke, leek, fennel and salsa verde was delicious, and I liked the rustic offering of baked ling cod with potatoes, olives, capers, majoram and lemon.
Desserts were a pleasure. Chocolate Nemesis is a mousse morphing into a ganache; the lemon tart is expertly made, albeit a recurring dessert in many restaurants.
Sebastien Le Goff is the man behind Cibo; he also runs the smart little wine bar, Uva, on the other side of the hotel.
(Actually, Moda Hotel is bursting with designer food and wine. You could easily become weak-kneed over at Viti Wine and Lager Store, next door to Cibo. It has 150 imported beers, endless whiskies and a serious selection of wines. My guy left with bags clinking with bottles of Belgian beers.)
Cibo features many of these delicious beers, as well as a choice list of Italian wines, backed by some bottles of B.C. wine and a stellar selection of prosecco and other Italian bubblies (more than 30 offerings).
The coffee’s worth mentioning too. It’s incredibly good!
Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel at 1011 W Cordova will be wrapped by British Artists poetry
Thursday, August 28th, 2008Verse by British artist wraps around Fairmont
Spring rolls a Sweet start
Thursday, August 28th, 2008Maybe I caught popular spot on a bad day
Mark Laba
Province
SWEET CHILI CAFE
Where: 5438 Victoria Dr.
Payment/reservations: Cash only, 778-371-8092
Drinks: Soft drinks
Hours: Tues.-Fri., lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m., Sat.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m., closed Mondays
Incongruity is the key to having the senses slapped silly in the face of mundanity. Which means you’re going along with your usual day, nose to the old grindstone when suddenly a man waltzing with an inflatable pig emerges from the Skytrain, winking as he glides past you moving to the inaudible lilting harmonies of “The Blue Danube.” There’s not much that’ll make you look up from your Starbucks, but this might do the trick.
A bit extreme, you might say (if he were waltzing with, say, a walrus wearing a chiffon prom dress, you might look the other way yawning), but even the minor incongruities can send shock waves through the brain. So it was with Peaches and me as we approached this tiny (and by tiny I mean about as big as an organ grinder monkey’s underpants) eatery. Peaches spotted a place across the street that was both a convenience store and a fish shop. By fish I don’t mean the fish you eat but rather pet fish like the kind you take for a walk on a leash in your bathtub.
“Who would buy aquarium fish from a convenience store?” Peaches pondered. At that moment two people came out of the shop carrying a large container imprinted with the warning, Handle With Care, Live Fish.
“They would, I guess,” I ventured.
Our next vexing vision occurred at the counter of the restaurant. It’s a hole-in-the-wall kind of place — well really two holes in the wall being as there’s one to get in and one leading to the kitchen. With this type of venue you expect the most rudimentary of attire when it comes to your waiter or, in this case, counterperson. So when a young man with a rather elaborate Indonesian-style headscarf accented with gold designs emerged from the back room, Peaches and I were both taken offguard. There was a kind of regality to the head adornment that seemed out of place with the meagre surroundings, like putting on a tuxedo to mow the lawn or catching Prince Charles in a pay toilet.
Not that the attire didn’t make sense. After all, this was an Indonesian restaurant, but essentially there’s nothing in the place besides four tables with nice batik tablecloths, a few paintings, a plant, a floor-model air purifier, a microwave and a cash register. Not enough room to swing a cat or a Balinese shadow puppet and in the décor-department a little off the mark, albeit sincere in its determination.
I was hoping this bit of panache would also be evident in the food. So off we went with two starters — chicken satay ($6.95) and spring rolls ($4.95). Both were excellent with a wonderful homemade and spicy peanut sauce for the chicken skewers and the veggie and shrimp spring rolls done to a perfect crispiness. So far, so good.
Next up an order of beef rendang ($7.95), a dish I happen to love almost more than my wife and some nasi kari ayam otherwise known as green curry chicken ($7.50). Now if Ron Popeil had been dining with me instead of Peaches, I’m sure he would have exclaimed, “By gosh, they must be using one of my food dehydrators in the kitchen.” I know there are versions of beef rendang where the sauce is cooked away until all that’s left is a spicy and aromatic paste, but the process is supposed to leave the meat tender. This beef was as dry as a well-used saddle and as tough as the guy who sat in it. The chicken was a bit more tender but only slightly and there was no white meat. I always think a mix of white and dark makes for a happy curry plate. I’m not exactly sure what went wrong here. Some folks I know were enthusiastic about the place, so maybe I caught it on a bad day. Or maybe the cook was trying out a new Ronco product and things went awry in the kitchen.
THE BOTTOM LINE:
RATINGS: Food: C Service: B Atmosphere: C
© The Vancouver Province 2008
Web smarts key to kids’ safety online
Thursday, August 28th, 2008Comic tackles issues of exploitation in cyberspace
Lisa Hrabluk
Province
Today’s children need to be Web smart and street smart because there are just as many dangers waiting for them online as there are outside their door.
Teaching children and teens to protect their personal information and to be careful about what they share online and with whom is key to keeping them safe.
However, blanket statements, such as “don’t talk to strangers,” won’t work for children and teens who are immersed in an interactive world, whether through social-networking sites, such as Club Penguin and Facebook, or involved in multiplayer online role-playing games, such as World of Warcraft and EVE Online.
“The social web is all about sharing information and making friends online,” said Cathy Wing, coexecutive director of the Media Awareness Network (www.media-awareness.ca), a pioneering Canadian non-profit organization that promotes media and Internet awareness.
“It’s important for adults to know what kind of socialization is happening. Kids don’t understand the power of a permanent record, something that can be seen by so many people in such a public way.”
About 94 per cent of young Canadians access the Internet from home and children as young as Grade 4 are exploring social roles, connecting to friends and developing social networks online, according to a 2005 Media Awareness Network study, Young Canadians in a Wired World.
Wing recommends parents talk
to their children about Web use, including establishing specific rules about Internet use and teaching children critical thinking about the information they view and exchange online.
“Rules make a big difference in kids’ behaviour even up to Grade 11,” said Wing, who said the network has paired up with Telus to offer Web-awareness seminars to its employees.
“We asked kids to articulate a positive online experience and the statement ‘my parents would approve of this site’ rated quite high.”
But advocates for safe surfing agree that the best way for parents and guardians to keep kids safe is to know what they’re doing online.
The Media Awareness Network offers parents guidelines on raising media and Internet savvy kids through its Web Aware program (www.bewebaware.ca).
It’s not alone. The Kids’ Internet Safety Alliance, a Canadian volunteer-run advocacy group, has partnered with Canadian children’s entertainment company Nelvana to launch Web of Deception, a cyber-safety comic book featuring the characters from the YTV show Grossology.
KINSA is particularly concerned with preventing the online exploitation of children and a significant portion of its efforts involves lobbying governments for stronger legislation and to raise awareness of safety issues with kids, parents, teachers, business people and legislators.
“The Internet is huge,” said KINSA vice-chairman Michael Ras.
“Police can’t do it alone, an educator can’t teach them everything and a parent can’t watch the content all the time, but if we all get together we can get something done.”
Go to the KINSA website at www.kinsa.net.
© The Vancouver Province 2008
Banff’s main street gets a new look
Tuesday, August 26th, 2008$23-million project controversial, but now popular with residents and tourists
Michele Gurney
Sun
BANFF, Alta. — Banff Avenue has a new look.
If you’re like me, you used to go to Banff on your summer holiday and, if you were lucky, on school ski trips.
Most of us have memories of never wandering too far from Tunnel Mountain Campground, wondering whether Minnewanka Loop really was a loop, and buying more candy than one child should consume in a year on an early Saturday morning trek to Welch’s.
Today, the walk down Banff Avenue is distinctly different. The Town of Banff has just wrapped up a $23-million project called Banff Refreshing.
The town’s underground infrastructure — water and sewer pipes — was more than 100 years old and needed to be replaced. So the town took the opportunity to refresh its streetscape to make it more pedestrian-friendly and reflective of a street in a National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site.
“The street was devoid of trees and places for people to sit and take in the views,” says Randall McKay, Banff’s planning and development manager.
Now, he says, “it’s two blocks of heaven.” And he’s not the only one who thinks Banff is better than ever. Visitors and residents are lauding Banff Refreshing.
Town officials are hearing positive comments from Banff Avenue business and residents who weren’t so supportive of the infrastructure plan when they realized how it might affect their daily lives for 15 months while construction was underway.
Now that it’s finished, everyone is happy. The sidewalks are twice as wide, so the locals are no longer forced to use the alleys to escape the crowds at the height of summer. There are twice as many crosswalks, so you can easily cut across to favourite restaurants and shops.
A mix of indigenous trees in landscaping beds is framed by large Rundlestone boulders from a local quarry. New street furniture has metal arm rests shaped to mimic the horns of the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. New lighting, with toppers, has been designed to reflect tree tops and the turrets of the famed Banff Springs Hotel.
Lights are also considerate of night-sky viewing (yes, you can actually see the Big Dipper from a downtown core in Canada). Solar-panelled trash compactor cans reduce garbage pickup.
The numbers of bike racks are up and street parking is out, leaving Banff Avenue with great sight lines. A local artist designed bronze sidewalk art featuring caribou, wolf and buffalo who guard their respective street corners.
Everything is custom and feels like it belongs here, says McKay, who believes Banff has created one of the most successful pedestrian environments in North America.
He’s also quick to point out that although Banff is redeveloping parts of the town, growth is being managed within a finite footprint that will never be expanded. Banff’s development is moving ahead with a greater consciousness of how much space people should take up within one of the most significant protected areas in the world. The philosophy takes into account how buses, buildings and even garbage bins fit within the landscape; how materials on a street reflect its national park surroundings.
While many residents believe businesses like the Gap or Tony Roma’s don’t belong in Banff, town officials are trying to manage commercial growth to maintain the right mix of mom-and-pop shops with more well-known chains.
The Refreshing plan was developed in the early ’90s by world-renowned landscape architects Design Workshop, based in Aspen, and Landplan and Associates in Calgary.
Because Banff didn’t have the funding then, to move the project forward, four test sites were installed over a 10-year period. This allowed the town to try different materials, watching how products and colours weathered and checking to see how certain plants thrived or failed.
The process served the town well when it refined the plan in 2001. Thanks to a special grant from the provincial government, Banff was able to bring its prototypes to life this summer. The result is breathtaking.
“We are fortunate in terms of what we had to work with,” says McKay. “The natural beauty of the park defines and shapes the town. The street was tired. We needed to refresh the main street to remain competitive with other mountain resorts throughout the world. The street now celebrates our authentic sense of place and will stand the test of time,” he says. “We have brought nature back into the built environment.”
Michelle Gurney is communications manager for the Town of Banff
IF YOU GO
– Check out www.banff.ca or www.banfflakelouise.com for the latest news and events. The Parks Canada website, at www.pc.gc.ca/banff, is a great resource to learn more about the history of the area.
– Travel on Roam, Banff’s new public-transit fleet featuring larger-than-life wildlife imagery. Banff is the first community in the country to launch an all-hybrid bus fleet. Trips cost just $2 one way, and buses go to all the town’s sites and attractions.
– To learn more about Banff Live, the all-day concert on Thursday to celebrate Banff Refreshing, visit www.banff.ca
© The Vancouver Sun 2008