Fresh menu items and a breathtaking view
Linda Bates
Sun
Executive chef Dino Gazzola of Grouse Mountain Peak restaurant is looking to shake up the West Coast menu with fresh, local, organic foods. Photograph by : Bill Keay, Vancouver Sun
The Observatory Restaurant atop Grouse Mountain must have one of the most breathtaking views in the world of dining — or, for that matter, in the world. Tables hug the large windows and, at dusk, candles flicker as the light slips away, opening up another dramatic view, this one of the glimmering lights of Vancouver below.
Lovers hold hands across the tables and visitors to the city find their eyes wandering to the windows as they eat.
But enough of waxing lyrical about the view. The food provides another kind of window on B.C.
At present, the menu emphasizes fresh, sustainable West Coast foods such as halibut, scallops, beef tenderloin and lamb — and in a month or so there will be even more dishes made from local products.
Vancouver-born chef Dino Gazzola, executive chef for all the restaurants on Grouse Mountain, will be streamlining the a la carte menu and adding a seasonal tasting menu that may vary weekly, taking advantage of fresh, seasonal B.C. products.
He says, “I want to re-establish relationships with organic farmers” and take advantage of the rich bounty of food here.
Although that new menu sounds like something to look forward to, on a recent visit we thoroughly enjoyed the current one.
We started with a salad of poached apples with farmhouse cheddar and fresh Vancouver Island oysters. The salad had a lovely light dressing, the apples were delicious and I kept scraping at the plate, hoping for one more molecule of cheese.
The oysters, too, were beautifully prepared and presented — three with a Champagne sabayon (light foam) and three with a touch of gazpacho.
Our mains of beef tenderloin and halibut were good-sized and also well presented, and the cauliflower prepared three ways that accompanied the meat dish was delightful.
However, we had some minor quibbles. The tenderloin was unevenly cooked — some of it was medium rare, as requested, and some not. The halibut was moist and flavourful but salty. (We enjoyed our dinners very much nonetheless.)
Desserts were elegant and just the right size to provide sweetness without guilt. My friend especially enjoyed the white chocolate mousse with roasted strawberries.
It’s not only dessert you don’t need to feel guilty about here — the restaurant is certified by two “green” organizations. Seafood dishes are reviewed by the Vancouver Aquarium before being granted Ocean Wise approval. And Green Table, a San Francisco-based organization, assesses all aspects of a restaurant, from food to power consumption, once a year.
In addition to its a la carte menu, the Observatory also has a prix fixe menu with flights of wine. Speaking of wine, there’s a list of fine wines so vast and varied here you wonder where they find space for the bottles.
Initially, we considered the prices ($39 for a main course) somewhat high — until we realized that Skyride fare, which is complimentary with dinner, would otherwise cost $34.95 per adult.
This makes a very attractive package for a romantic special occasion or for treating out-of-town guests. You get a day of enjoying the walks, the grizzlies and wolves, the gift shops and films — topped with a gourmet dinner in a peerless location.
Make sure you request a window table.
THE OBSERVATORY RESTAURANT
Overall: 4
Food: 3 1/2
Ambience: 5
Service: 4
Price: $$$
The peak of Grouse Mountain (access via Skyride)
604-998-5045
www.grousemountain.com/Summer/dining/the-observatory/ Open 5 to 10 p.m. daily
Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone.
Restaurants are rated out of five stars.
© The Vancouver Sun 2008
