Blend of revolutionary, colonial, commercial flavours make San Cristobal de las Casas unique
Caitlin Evans
Sun
A Mexican girl climbs the staircase to her house in San Cristobal de las Casas.
Mexico: Does the word conjure an image of beaches, bikinis and margaritas? Certainly, the country has many world-class beach resorts that draw millions of vacationers every year.
But for those who’ve wondered what lies beyond the walls of your resort, you should know this: Mexico is so much more. It’s an incredibly diverse and culturally vibrant place that many tourists never really discover. Stunning colonial towns, cosmopolitan cities, ecological wonders and ancient ruins are only a few of the highlights.
It would take a whole book to even begin describing all of Mexico’s beautiful destinations. But a good place to start is lovely San Cristobal de las Casas in the southern state of Chiapas. It’s the town where I got my first taste of Mexico — and then some. I’ve been there three times, and am going for a fourth in a couple of weeks. The place is addictive –and it’s not even on the beach.
San Cristobal de las Casas (population around 150,000) is a highland colonial city about four hours from the Guatemalan border. The city was rocketed into fame when the Zapatistas, a revolutionary group seeking more rights for indigenous people, participatory democracy and more, stormed and occupied San Cristobal on Jan. 1, 1994. They were pushed out by the Mexican army the next day, but the city remained a focal point of the Zapatista movement.
Relaxing strolls along clean streets
Those were tumultuous years, but today San Cristobal is peaceful and relaxing. Its clean streets are lined with great international cafes and boutiques, as well as down-to-earth places selling tacos, quesadillas and delicious sugary churros.
San Cristobal is popular among European and Mexican tourists, which means it offers a wide array of attractive accommodations. It’s also an enjoyable and safe place to walk around: The streets are well-lit and, at almost any time of day or night, there are hundreds of people and families out for a stroll downtown.
Why is San Cristobal so special? It’s the unique mix of revolutionary, colonial, indigenous and commercial flavours that makes San Cristobal such an interesting place.
The colonial aspect is most readily apparent. It’s an old city, dating back to the 16th century, and the architecture is still reminiscent of that era. The narrow streets (some made of cobblestone) are lined with beautiful houses with clay tile rooftops and brightly painted walls. There are impressive and imposing churches around almost every corner, some overlooking the city on staircase-lined hills, some looming over parks and squares.
Central Park, filled with greenery, benches and a giant white gazebo, is where everyone congregates to talk and people-watch.
Shoppers’paradise
Along the old streets, however, is a healthy supply of bustling modern commerce. Shoe-lovers adore the stores of cheap, knock-off sneakers, and clothing addicts love the pricey boutiques and discount stores alike. Beautiful amber and silver jewelry is on sale, as are cowboy boots, handmade paper, fair-trade coffee, pirated DVDs and CDs, incense and skateboards. It’s hard to imagine there’s anything you can’t buy in San Cristobal.
In contrast to this commercialism is San Cristobal‘s revolutionary aspect. The town may be peaceful today, but it’s still a hotbed of political activism.
Stay in town for a while, and you’re bound to see some radical political graffiti, a peaceful protest and probably even a reggae band singing revolutionary tunes. Occasionally, it feels more like “revolutionary tourism” than anything — check out the Bar Revolution, or street vendors selling little Zapatista dolls — but rest assured that, on the whole, this is a dynamic town focused on positive change.
Finally, an essential part of San Cristobal de las Casas is its role as a centre of indigenous culture. More than a quarter of the population of the state of Chiapas is indigenous, from Tzotzil, Tzeltal and other groups. A large proportion of this population is concentrated in and around San Cristobal, making the city a very culturally diverse place. Every day, you will see indigenous people selling a wide variety of intricate backstrap-loom weavings and other beautiful handicrafts and women wearing their traditional clothing.
Of course, soaking up the atmosphere isn’t the only thing to do. San Cristobal is chock full of activities.
Check out a few museums: maybe the Mayan Medicine Museum for a fascinating glimpse into indigenous culture, or the Amber Museum to learn about this beautiful stone.
Challenge yourself to visit every church in town, including the ones set upon hilltops. Visit Taller Lenatores, an incredible handmade papermaking association that would be happy to show you their workshop. Go to Kinoki, a small art-house cinema that screens independent films and watch a documentary on the Zapatistas.
If you want to get out of town, there are several nearby indigenous villages easily reached by public transportation or private tour.
The most popular is San Juan Chamula, a fascinating town of Tzotzil people with a lively weekly market.
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IF YOU GO
– Getting to San Cristobal is not as tricky as it might seem. You can fly to Mexico City from most Canadian cities. From Mexico City, you take a short flight (1 1/2 hours) on Mexicana to Tuxtla Gutierrez, a city about an hour from San Cristobal. It’s easy to get from the airport to San Cristobal by private shuttle, taxi or public transportation.
– If you must get your beach fix, you can take an overnight bus from San Cristobal to Cancun (or vice-versa). This is not as bad as it sounds: Mexico’s comfortable and safe first-class bus companies put Greyhound to shame.
– You’re going all the way to San Cristobal to enjoy its historic Mexican charm, so don’t stay at the Holiday Inn. Instead, get a reputable guidebook and book a room in one of the city’s colonial-style hotels. Na Bolom, also a museum, comes highly recommended. Budget travellers such as myself enjoy the lively social atmosphere at Rossco Backpackers Hostel.
– A word about budgets: San Cristobal is a relatively inexpensive place to visit, although certainly not as cheap as some Latin American destinations, such as Guatemala. A backpacker on a budget can easily get by on $30 a day by staying in hostels, eating at inexpensive restaurants, and taking public transportation instead of private tours. About $80 a day would make a decent, comfortable midrange budget.
– Compared with most cities I’ve visited in Latin America or elsewhere, San Cristobal is a very safe place. However, use common sense: Don’t walk alone down deserted streets late at night, don’t flash a ton of cash or expensive-looking jewelry, and if you need a taxi, get your hotel or restaurant to call one they trust.
– Photographers should be careful not to get too snap-happy. Many people in San Cristobal, especially those from indigenous groups, are offended when they become unwilling photo subjects. Always ask before taking a photograph of someone.
– With an altitude exceeding 2,100 metres, San Cristobal is sometimes chilly, especially at night. Make sure to pack some long pants and warm sweaters. Daytime temperatures in winter are very comfortable (low 20s).
– Before you go, see a travel doctor to get all the necessary immunizations and health advice. While in Mexico, be wary of raw fruits and vegetables that may not have been washed properly. When in doubt, pick restaurants that look clean and busy.
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