These gourmet tortas require a firm grasp and a hearty appetite, but are well worth the effort and the price
Mia Stainsby
Sun
Diana Zapata shows off one of the big gourmet Mexican sandwiches available at Las Tortas on Vancouver’s south Cambie. The sandwiches are served in paper bags with the menu on the side of the bag. Photograph by: Ward Perrin, PNG, Vancouver Sun
AT A GLANCE
Las Tortas
3353 Cambie St., 604-569-1402. www.lastortas.ca.
Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to around 9 p.m.
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A lot of you think that when Duffin’s Donuts disappeared from Main Street a few years ago, so too did the best Mexican tortas in town.
The family moved the business to 41st and Knight, and is still making a multiplicity of tortas, which are Mexican sandwiches, as well as doughnuts and fried chicken and Vietnamese and Chinese food. (I know, I know, but that’s what I love about the Vancouver food scene.)
Now, there’s a new kid in town. This one’s on Cambie Street — handily, one block away from the Park Theatre.
Although one of my favourite things in life is to become catatonic on my couch with the fireplace on, wine in glass, Sauvagine cheese nearby while watching a movie, I still like going out to the movies.
More often than not, my husband can’t get out of the office in a timely fashion and it’s a breathless race to grab a bite and meet our friends.
Las Tortas is the perfect place for a grab-and-run meal (and by that, I don’t mean dine and dash) if you’re heading to The Park. I’ve even snuck one into the theatre for my late-arriving husband and he gobbled it up in the dark.
These tortas cost more than others you might have encountered ($6.95 to $9.95) but they’re probably twice the size and require a firm grip and large appetite. I could only eat half of one and my partner uncharacteristically declined it after finishing his.
I don’t know if any torta can be called gourmet (as Las Tortas does) but it certainly is a decent and filling fast meal.
The place is tiny but clean and bright. You order at the counter, ticking off your order on a brown bag. The tortas contain lots of veggies (combinations of tomato, cabbage, pickled red onion, guacamole) and refried beans; they use three cheeses — Oaxaca (semi-hard), panela (like soft mozzarella with more flavour) and Monterey Jack.
I tried the Chorisqueso (house-made chorizo with Oaxaca cheese) and Cubana (roasted pork, turkey, chicken schnitzel, panela cheese), both very flavourful and fresh tasting. But I’m telling you, they’re a mittful.
The buns are freshly made daily at a bakery that one of the partners owns. There are 13 kinds.
Since there’s minimal ambience and very few tables, it’s best for takeout; they also do free deliveries within three kilometres for a minimum $15 order. And sorry, there’s no liquor licence, so no beer to wash down your big sandwich.
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