Restaurant hoping the end to Canada Line construction is near

Joanne Sasvari
Sun

Outside the windows at Figmint Restaurant & Lounge, traffic inches slowly past the orange pylons of the Canada Line construction.

“They’re supposed to be done by the end of May,” restaurant manager Alain Canuel says optimistically.

For a restaurant perched at the busy corner of 12th and Cambie, that’s cause to celebrate.

And if you’re the sommelier as well as the restaurant manager, where else are you going to look for inspiration but the wine cellar?

Figmint has just uncorked its summer cocktail list, each deliciously refreshing drink based on wines such as sherry, Vermouth, Pinot Noir or Riesling.

“I have a passion for wine,” Canuel explains. Besides, he adds, “I didn’t want to try to compete with people like George and the Cascade Room [which are known for their cocktails]. They do a very good job.”

When he came up with his vintage idea, he realized that many of the great cocktails are already based on different types of wine.

After all, wine — whether it be a crisp sparkler, a sweet sherry or herbal vermouth — provides a distinctive flavour base for a creative mixologist to play with. But because it is lighter and more delicate than spirits, it requires a light and judicious hand behind the bar.

And so Canuel put his bartenders to work, mixing and muddling, shaking and stirring, until they created 10 fresh new handcrafted concoctions.

“We had a lot of fun, and the cocktails came up very tasty,” Canuel says. “At least half of them are based on classic cocktails, but we put a twist on it.”

For instance, the Pinot Noir is an update of the Mojito (white rum muddled with mint and lime, shaken over ice and topped with pinot noir) while the Prosecco (tequila, passion fruit, lime and prosecco) takes on the margarita.

There’s also the refreshing Sherry (muddled with mint and cucumber, topped with Limonata), the sophisticated Rosso (Cinzano with muddled orange and soda) and the tingly Brut (sparkling wine, ginger liqueur and Crème de Cassis), and more.

Like wine itself, these drinks were designed to go with food.

“They are all well-balanced. They have a good acidity, and not too much sweetness. They don’t compromise the food at all,” Canuel says.

And, because they are made with wine rather than spirits, they have one definite advantage over traditional martini-style cocktails.

“They’re definitely a bit lighter in terms of alcohol,” Canuel says.

That means you can easily have more than one if you’re in the mood to celebrate, say, the end of a major construction project.

Of course, Canuel notes, even if the roadwork is finished this month, the station itself won’t be done until the end of summer.

“We’re looking forward to it,” he says with something between a laugh and a sigh.

Hmm. Wonder what he’ll come up with to celebrate then?

– – –

ROSSO

Figmint’s pleasantly herbal concoction is reminiscent of the Negroni — without its lethal kick.

2 oz Cinzano (Italian vermouth)

Half a navel orange

Club soda

4 drops of Angostura bitters

In a bar glass, muddle Cinzano with orange. Pour over ice in a rocks (old-fashioned) glass and top with club soda. Garnish with an orange twist and pink peppercorns. Serves 1.

BRUT

Figmint takes a spicy twist on the classic Kir Royale.

1/2 oz ginger liqueur (such as Giffard Ginger of the Indies)

1/2 oz Crème de Cassis (blackcurrant liqueur)

Sparkling wine such as Stellars Jay Brut

Pour ginger liqueur into a champagne flute. Pour sparkling wine over the ginger, then top with cassis. Garnish with a piece of skewered candied ginger. Serves 1.

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

Sitting down for dinner is a time for social reconnection in culture

Alfie Lau
Sun

For a menu that has only 21 items, it’s hard to ignore the final choice at Lalibela Ethiopian Restaurant in North Burnaby.

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony, called a buna bejebena, is advertised as “an integral part of Ethiopian social and cultural life”.

Owner Mehiret Berhe has lived in Canada for two decades but the coffee ceremony takes her back to her homeland. In fact, the ceremony is one of the most important gatherings for Ethiopian families.

“It’s a chance for your friends and family to talk about what’s going on in [everybody’s] lives,” said Berhe, as she caught up with her sister, Samer, who recently came to Canada with her three-year-old daughter Bethe. “It’s a beautiful ceremony that I want to share with [people in] Canada.”

You have to place your order for the coffee ceremony ($15) before you order dinner because Berhe has to roast the green coffee beans in the kitchen beforehand. Midway through your meal, Berhe will bring the smoking pan of beans to your table, heightening the anticipation of the coffee goodness to come.

On to our meals, which are served in the traditional Ethiopian style. You order your meats or vegetables and you scoop it up with Injera flatbread, a spongy, crepe-like bread made from teff, a tiny, round grain indigenous to Ethiopia.

For our mains, we went with the Kost, a vegetarian dish ($7.50), the beef Yedinich Wot Bessega ($11), the chicken Ye Dror Tibs ($13) and the meat sampler plate ($13.50), which featured lamb, beef and chicken.

The sampler plate comes on a large pan of injera — think of a pizza before all the sauces and toppings are put on — and that means you have to get eating quickly or else the oil from your meats completely saturates the injera.

We found the chicken to be the best item of the sampler plate, simply because it comes with sautéed red onions, fresh garlic, ginger, herbs and boiled eggs. It’s a mix you probably wouldn’t try at home but Berhe’s handiwork is very tasty.

The Kosta features fresh spinach and spices — a treat for my guest from Whitehorse, where Ethiopian food is about as accessible as, well, a trip to Ethiopia. The Bessega advertises itself as lean, tender beef served with a hearty gumbo of potatoes, and while the potatoes were indeed hearty, the beef wasn’t as lean as I expected.

The Ye Dror Tibs were some of the best chicken breast cubes I’ve had in quite some time. Berhe uses a special — and secret — mix of herbs and spices to give the chicken breast a flavour I can still taste days after the meal. The chicken was lean and tender without being dry and probably worked the best with the injera.

The four of us agreed that beef may be a bit too oily for injera and the lamb can usually stand on its own — Berhe disagrees, saying the lamb is her favourite dish on the menu — making chicken probably the best choice for neophytes to this type of East African cuisine.

Our coffee now awaited us and Berhe poured our servings from a clay coffee pot into small cups like Chinese dim sum tea cups. My first serving, without any sugar or cream, was unbelievably mellow, unlike anything I’d drunk before. Adding sugar for my second serving made it taste like an espresso, but Berhe had one more surprise in store for me.

“We add salt when we drink it,” she said.

My eyebrows arched, wondering if she had stumbled on that revelation because a prankster had switched her sugar and salt dispensers.

When I tried the “salty coffee”, it was probably the best of my three samples, as the salt takes away any bitterness from the coffee beans.

For 15 minutes, Berhe regaled us with stories of how the first year in business has been.

“We opened on April 28 last year and business has grown steadily,” she said, adding that she was drawn to Burnaby because of the lower rents. She had looked at spots in Vancouver, specifically Commercial Drive.

She also named her restaurant after Lalibela, one of the most famous places in Ethiopia because of its rock-hewn churches carved out of living rock in the 12th century.

“People should give us a try,” she said. “Ethiopian food is about people getting together.” And believe me, once you try the coffee, you’ll find it hard to go back to Starbucks.

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Lalibela Ethiopian

Restaurant

4530 Hastings St, Burnaby

604-299-4555

Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tues. to Sun. (closed Mondays)

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

With 33 gourmet bars, that’s quite enough to whet the appetite

Mia Stainsby
Sun

This might be the best excuse yet to eat chocolate first thing in the morning. When you get your coffee at Mink A Chocolate Cafe (made in a Clover machine that grinds and brews coffee on demand), they slip you a wrapped square of 73 per cent chocolate. What can you do but eat it?

And should that not be quite enough chocolate once you’ve whet your appetite, there are 33 gourmet chocolate bars with ganache centres with fun and flirty flavours like Open In Case of Emergency (mint and bourbon); Mermaid’s Choice (burnt caramel with fleur de sel and a hint of rosemary); Peace in Provence (lavender, Grand Marnier); Pas de Deux (Amaretto and Okanagan Dried Cherries); and Hot Chocolate (chipotle pepper).

I like the idea of chocolate “bars” over bon bons because they’re nice and portable and can stand up to being carried (for emergencies) in one’s purse. The shop does, however, carry five flavours of bon bons.

Mink has more than a coffee and chocolates. You can also get Belgian waffles, yogurt and fruit parfait, chocolate fondu and S’mores, which you make over a hibachi at the table (you roast marshmallows, dip in fondu, squish between graham wafer crackers).

“We’ve been making parfaits like crazy today,” says owner Marc Lieberman. “Fridays are big for fondu.” One mid-afternoon, he’s tending to a room with men in suits, tourists, “high-tech kids with laptops eating chocolate bars” and women friends catching up.

Lieberman previously started a burrito shop called Steamrollers, which he sold to indulge in the sweeter side of life.

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Mink a Chocolate Cafe

863 West Hastings

604-633-2451

www.minkchocolates.com

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

I did miss the belly dancing It would have added spice to an interesting evening

Mark Laba
Province

Kayan

Where: 202-777 W. Broadway

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 604-874-2777 or 604-874-3777

Drinks: Fully licensed

Hours: 11 a.m.–midnight every day

W hat do chickpeas and belly dancing have in common? Nothing really, but for me, the two are indelibly etched in my memory from my old Toronto days. My friend Arthur and I would visit a particular Middle Eastern restaurant for takeout and then linger in the foyer clutching our falafel and watching the belly dancing. So garbanzo beans and gyrating are linked in my synapses like the Clapper light switch is linked to the slap of hands. Goes on in a flash.

Thus when another Toronto friend, The Poet, came to town, I decided this was a good time to rediscover the chickpea-infused days of my youth because newly opened and beckoning like a belly dancer from the 1001 Nights was this Mediterranean restaurant with live music and dancing Friday and Saturday nights. The focus of the food is really Middle Eastern with a strong leaning toward Lebanese and the meat here is both halal and kosher, so both Islamic and Jewish dietary laws are covered.

The Poet is vegetarian whereas Peaches and I are carnivores and we would just about suck the cartilage out of a camel hump if we were hungry enough. But that’s the beauty of Lebanese cuisine — there’s a sufficient variety of dishes to satisfy both factions.

Stepping into this place, which occupies the old Tojo’s space, is like walking into a scene from the Arabian Nights.

Crimson walls the colour of ripe pomegranate, exotic and ornate fabrics, artwork and statuary, plus a spectacular view of the city at one end of the room while the other end houses a private dining area that resembles a sultan’s tent.

We began our Middle Eastern odyssey with hummus, foul moudammas and moutabal bathenjan (all $6.25). The hummus had an especially tart finish, as if it had been hit by a lemon thunderbolt and the moutabal bathenjan, which consisted of roasted eggplant zapped with pomegranate, lemon juice and garlic had a much chunkier consistency than other versions I’ve tasted. The Poet enjoyed this fleshy eggplant mix immensely whereas I prefer a more pulverized variety. When I want flesh I turn to meat instead of veggies. The foul moudammas, essentially fava beans with lemon juice, garlic and olive oil could’ve used a Hannibal Lecter makeover with a nice Chianti and a piece of liver but was still tasty.

Next up was a good shankleesh ($7.50), the famed Lebanese cheese finished with oregano, spices, tomato, green onion and feta. Even better was the fatayer ($7.50), a baked triangular pastry shell stuffed with spinach, nuts, onion and flavoured with lemon juice and sumac. There’s also a feta cheese and black sesame seed species just as tasty with nice flaky pastry and aromatic innards.

Onward we chomped with the falafel plate ($6.25) and the general consensus was just OK. The Poet thought the chickpea balls too pasty while Peaches and I found them as arid as a desert highway. Go figure. But the kibbie ($7.50), a classic Lebanese dish of meat within meat, the close proximity of which made The Poet a little dizzy, was excellent. Ground sirloin, cracked wheat, onion and cinnamon are shaped into ovals, stuffed with beef and pine nuts and spices and then baked.

Peaches and I capped our meat frenzy with sojok, a spicy Lebanese sausage ($7.50) that I found a little dry and the jawaneh ($9), Lebanese chicken wings marinated in garlic and allspice and then baked. Very spicy but I would’ve liked them crispier. As for recapturing the days of my youth I certainly had my fill of chickpeas but we missed the belly dancing that evening and so it remains a mirage in my memory.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

Peace in the Middle East via this exotic feast.

RATINGS: Food: B Service: B+ Atmosphere: A-

© The Vancouver Province 2008

D

It’s a great neighbourhood spot on West 10th with a menu that reads like a map of British Columbia

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Pair Bistro is an unassuming neighbourhood restaurant on West 10th, outside the orbit of trendoids and travellers. I reviewed it about four years ago but chefs have come and gone and it’s become one of the restaurants with a “locovore” reputation, showcasing local ingredients. I wanted to see if it’s true to that spirit and how it’s progressed.

Quite well, it seems.

It’s intimate in a well-worn way and warm (in the summer, very warm) and unpretentious. There’s obvious support of local artists as well as B.C. food and wine.

The yellow-cedar totem behind the bar symbolically represents the owner’s friendship with Haida carver Clarence Mills. “My spirit animal is bear and the Haida individual is him,” says Todd Hodgins, who owns the restaurant with wife Janis Hodgins.

Note the references to the Beatles, including a photo of the owners and friends replicating the Abbey Road album cover at a street crosswalk in the neighbourhood. “I’m proud to say I’m a Beatles fan,” Hodgins says. “It’s that philosophy of love and peace and what they gave us in music.”

The menu reads like a map of B.C. Appies include organic field greens with pinot poached pears, edible flowers and Poplar Grove Tiger Blue (cheese); cinnamon sugar yam fries with mint infused aioli; Cortes Island medley of mussels, clams, swimming scallops, vin blanc and fresh herbs. Mains include “The Burger,” made with grassfed beef, applewood smoked cheddar and wild boar bacon; and pinot noir-braised spring lamb shank, sautéed with wild B.C. mushrooms and Pemberton potatoes.

Pair Bistro is a great neighbourhood spot. The food doesn’t hit all the right notes all of the time but there’s enough deliciousness to hook you. Dungeness crabcake with pepper purée and sea asparagus was tall and light; Peace Region bison ribs, slow braised with juniper berry barbecue sauce, was served with Chilliwack corn bread and radish slaw — a delicious feast; wild B.C. salmon was perfectly cooked and served with mushroom and goat cheese arancini (rice ball), balsam cream and organic chard; Polderside organic duck breast and leg with butter gnocchi and apple cranberry cabbage was a tasty dish but highlighted the fact that presentation could be worked on — but the portion was hugely generous and the duck was flavourful.

A maple-glazed flat iron steak (with B.C. mushrooms and sugar yam fries) was problematic. It was tough. The Pair “signature” oysters featured very nice oysters but was overloaded with toppings of balsam cream, salmon, spinach and tomato confit, suffocating the lovely oysters.

You can order extra sides and I’d recommend the bannock, served with cedar jelly, black cherry jelly. (A different bannock was served with an appie of roasted University of B.C. farm garlic, with Saltspring Island goat cheese, Chilliwack corn relish and preserves, but it was pale and dense, not as good.) That appie itself wasn’t a terribly cohesive dish.

What’s notable is the price point, especially for a restaurant sourcing out some of the best ingredients around, including produce from the UBC Farm. Mains range from $15 (burger) to $25 (lamb shank, organic duck). Also notable is the wine list featuring boutique wines you won’t find in liquor stores, coming from wineries like Garry Oaks, Blue Mountain, Poplar Grove, Venturi Schultz, Joie and Blackwood.

PAIR BISTRO

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 3 1/2

Service: 3 1/2

Price: $$

3769 West 10th Ave.

604-224-7211

Open for dinner daily from 5:30; brunch on Sunday.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

Laguna Blu puts authentic Italian on the menu and patrons on the dancefloor

Alfie Lau
Sun

When a fire forced Daniel Morosan to move his Italian dinner and dance restaurant to the top floor of the Westminster Quay Public Market, so began the story of Laguna Blu.

Voted as the best dinner and dance restaurant in New Westminster the last two years, Laguna Blu arose from the ashes of Con Amore E Sapore (the former name of Morosan’s restaurant on Royal Avenue) and built its reputation on generous and affordable Italian dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in Morosan’s ancestral home in Naples.

On a recent weekday, we decided to see what magic Morosan and wife Elena were cooking up at Westminster Quay.

We started with two traditional appetizers, the antipasto for two ($12.95), which included ample portions of Parma prosciutto, Genoa salami, Asiago and Fontinella cheeses, artichokes, olives and mixed pickles; and the deep-fried calamari ($6.95).

The antipasto was a great mix of traditional Italian favourites. The meats were lean and fresh while the cheeses were strong without being overpowering.

I couldn’t get enough of the calamari, which was a veritable steal at $7 because the portion size was larger than some main servings of calamari I’ve had elsewhere.

By using baby squid instead of older octopi, Morosan achieves a delectable taste sensation.

For our mains, we had to go with a couple of pasta dishes, along with a meat dish.

The spaghetti with Bolognese sauce ($11.95) was the choice of my friend, who believes Italian restaurants don’t spend enough care and attention on staples like this.

Not so with Morosan, who makes his pasta daily and uses only the freshest ingredients to make the sauce.

“I’ve been in the business for 24 years and there’s no way you can have bad pasta at an Italian restaurant,” said Morosan. “I only use authentic Italian recipes and when you combine it with fresh ingredients, that’s how you get a great meal.”

Our pregnant diner’s ravioli ($14.95) was another example of homemade Italian pasta, but infused with fresh meat, it was a taste treat. Even while eating for two, she still had enough for the next day’s lunch.

I went with the red snapper ($19.95), pan fried and served in a tomato sauce and a veritable garden of vegetables, including potatoes, carrots and eggplant.

The fish was well prepared, but I found the sauce a bit too overwhelming. Fish should be able to stand on its own and I found the mix of sauce, capers and fish a bit too much for my taste buds.

An item that is no longer on the menu, but may be ordered by special request is the Mayor’s steak, a 11/2 pound steak that New Westminster Mayor Wayne Wright has been known to enjoy.

“Laguna Blu is one of my favourite restaurants in the city,” said Wright, who said he helped Morosan find the location at the Quay after the fire.

“When my friends had a surprise birthday party for me [in April], we had it at Laguna Blu and it was a great meal.”

Wright said his favourite dishes are the creamy carbonara pasta and the rack of lamb, while Morosan said his favourite is the seafood pasta.

“I love seafood and the different ways you can cook it,” Morosan said. “Add in the homemade pasta and it’s something I really enjoy.”

To finish our meal, we had the tuxedo truffle dessert ($5.50), which is a mix of white and dark chocolate cake. With three forks attacking the cake, it didn’t take long for it to disappear into our full bellies.

While we went for dinner on a quiet weekday, things really get crazy starting on Thursday night when Morosan brings in a band and diners can work off their dinners with some energetic dancing.

“Everybody loves to dance,” said Morosan. “Start with a fine meal, add in the dancing and you have a great night.”

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Laguna Blu Italian Restaurant

New Westminster Quay Public Market, 2nd floor, 810 Quayside Dr.

Phone (604) 522-4040

www.lagunablu.ca

Hours: Mon. – Wed., 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 9 p.m.

Thurs., 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 11 p.m.

Fri. to Sun., 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

Owner cuts extras, sticks to home-cooked specialties

Mia Stainsby
Sun

It’s gratifying to see family-style Mexican restaurants opening that are less and less straight Tex-Mex. Sure, you might find burritos or enchiladas on the menu but, quite likely, there’ll be dishes straight from the supper tables of the people who run these establishments.

Salsa and Agave Mexican Grill opened seven months ago on the edge of Yaletown, an unpretentious restaurant unfamiliar with the publicity machine. On my fourth telephone call, I was able to convince someone to take the time to talk to me.

To be honest, I was disappointed when it first opened because it meant Banano’s, which preceded it, had closed. It was a family-run Venezuelan restaurant that offered up the best arepas. At first Salsa and Agave offered a variety of Latin American dishes but recently realized they had best stick with what they know best — Mexican food.

Salsa and Agave doesn’t disappoint, however. The food is fresh and lively and light; and naturally, one can eat quite inexpensively. The most expensive dishes, full-on entrées, are $13. There are tacos, tostados, rolled tacos (folded, then panfried) and “specialties” like the Alambre (grilled beef or chicken with green peppers, bacon, onions, ham, cheese). I had a nice Aztec soup with chipotle peppers, diced onions, cheese and sour cream and the enchiladas (three on a plate) came with tomatillo or molé sauce. Their chunky-style guacamole with smashed bits of tomatoes is better than most, as is the fluffed rice that accompanies the entrées.

One of their biggest sellers is carne tampiquena (grilled beef with tomatillo sauce, chicken enchilada, rice, beans and peppers). “That is what I eat when I have a chance to sit down and eat,” says Juan Contras, who runs the restaurant with wife Elizabeth Fernandez.

When I visited, the kitchen was out of a lot of the dishes, but that just goes to show it’s a busy place. Salsa and Agave is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Last week’s Dining in The Rough said L2 Cafe was located in A-Wear. In fact, the store is now called L2 Leone.

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Salsa and Agave Mexican Grill

1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

 

Sun

CRITIC’S PICKS

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

– WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s A leader in sustainability. Excellent service. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$

Boneta An ambitious chef behind a constantly changing menu, some dishes reaching the sublime. 1 West Cordova St., 604-684-1844. $$

Brix Large tapas selection, 60 wines by the glass. 1138 Homer St., 604-915-9463. $$/$$$

Chow. Delicate textures marries bold flavours. A successful union. 3121 Granville St., 604-608-2469. $$$

Crave Divine comfort food with elegant touches. 3941 Main St., 604-872-3663. $$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Fuel The food sings. A joy! 1944 West Fourth Ave., 604-288-7905. $$$

Gastropod Beautifully controlled flavours, great value for fine food. 1938 West Fourth Ave., 604-730-5579. $$

Goldfish A designer room for designer folk. Good value for the casually elegant food. 1118 Mainland St., 604-689-8318. $$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill Locovore’s delight. Try their 100-Mile Menu. Some exquisite dishes. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

Salt Tasting Room Inspired charcuterie style food with wine pairings. Edgey surrounding. 45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912. $$

Soma A hip, inexpensive little boite off Main St. with a perky menu, great beers. 151 East Eighth Ave., 604-630-7502. $/$$

Suvai Good value neighbourhood spot dedicated to local ingredients. 2279 West 41st Ave., 604-261-4900. $$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

Yew A stunner of a room; “Urban West Coast” food to suit. Four Seasons Hotel. 791 West Georgia St., 604-692-4939.

– ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$

Il Giardino “New Italian” food, light with exotic elements. Big on game. 1382 Hornby St., 604-669-2422. $$$.

Italian Kitchen The spaghetti with truffle cream and Kobe meatballs here is luscious. A modern Italian restaurant. 1037 Alberni St., 604-687-2858. $$

La Buca A neighbourhood restaurant serving quality food, backed up by great service. 4025 McDonald St., 604-730-6988. $$

La Terrazza Knock-out looks, intelligent and friendly staff, traditional Italian food. 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449. $$$

– CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Imperial Seafood Fine Cantonese food, (expensive) in the lovely Marine Building. 355 Burrard St., 604-688-8191. $$$

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Legendary Noodle. Handmade noodles, made to order. Funky spot. 1074 Denman St., 604-669-8551. $

Pink Pearl It’s been around forever and is still a going concern. 1132 East Hastings St., 604-253-4316. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

– JAPANESE

Ajisai Sushi Bar Small neighbourhood spot with sushi that sings. 2081West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428. $

Gyoza King Gyozas reign supreme. Open late. 1508 Robson St., 604-669-8278. $

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272; 1516 Yew St., 604-738-4272. $/$$

Kingyo Wonderfully crafted interior, interesting izakaya dishes. A slice of Tokyo. 871 Denman St., 604-608-1677. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 1133 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

Zest Japanese Cuisine Grazing style modern Japanese menu in cool modern room. 2775 West 16th Ave., 604-731-9378. $$

– FRENCH/belgian

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Jules Paris, anyone? Authentic food, authentic feel. Charming! 216 Abbott St., 604-669-0033. $$

Le Crocodile Refined French with incredible wines to boot. 909 Burrard St., 604-669-4298. $$$

Mistral Authentic Provencal food; chef worked in Michelin starred French kitchens. 2585 West Broadway, 604-733-0046. $$

Pastis French bistro with a lightness of being. 2153 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-5020. $$/$$$

Pied-a-Terre A neighbourhood gem, serving straight-up French bistro food. 3369 Cambie St., 604-873-3131. $$

– GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Maria’s Taverna Friendly service. 2324 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-4722. $$

Simpatico Thirty-plus years old; traditional Greek restaurant with the addition of good pizzas. 2222 West Fourth Ave., 604733-6824. $/$$

Stepho’s Nightly lineups because of low prices. 1124 Davie St., 604-683-2555. $

– INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Samosa Garden Smooth sauces, lovely food, good service. 3502 Kingsway, 604-437-3502. $$

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

– SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Banana Leaf Homestyle Malaysian food. 820 West Broadway, 604-731-6333 and 1096 Denman St., 604-683-3333. $$

Flying Tiger A menu reminiscent of Asian street food, only stylishly presented. 2958 West Fourth, 604-737-7529. $$

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Pondok Authentic Indonesian dishes, freshly cooked. 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$

Rekados Filipino Cuisine Finely cooked and presented Filipino food. Gracious service. 604-873-3133. $/$$

Sanafir Pan-Asian and Mediterranean flavours in a trio of dishes. Innovative. 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049. $$/$$$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

– SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Finest At Sea A fish shop on one side, a fish cafe on the other, serving the ‘finest at sea’. 4675 Arbutus St., 604-266-1904. $

Fish House in Stanley Park Bold and imaginative seafood dishes by the creative Karen Barnaby. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., 604-681-7275. $$$

Go Fish Fab outdoor fish shack, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House Fresh shucked oysters, cedar plank salmon, grilled chops. High energy. 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940. $$$

Rodney’s Oyster House Specializes in very fresh shellfish and oysters. 1228 Hamilton St., 604-609-0080. $$

– LATIN AMERICA

Baru Casually chic South American food for discerning diners. 2535 Alma St., 604-222-9171. $$

Cobre “Nuevo Latino” cuisine with creative spins on traditional dishes. 52 Powell St., 604-669-2396. $$

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

Me and Julio: Modern Mexican Kitchen and Cantina. A sibling to Lolita’s. Same buzz, same food with sparkle. 2095 Commercial Dr., 604-696-9997

Tio Pepe’s Yucatan food, nicely prepared. 1134 Commercial Dr., 604-254-8999. $

– MEDITERRANEAN

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

– NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

The District Good-value brasserie; great list of Belgian beers. 13 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 778-338-4938. $$

Dundarave Fish Market Charming spot; fabulous seafood from the adjoining fish market. 2419 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-1155. $

Casual Gourmet A mall restaurant offering gourmet bistro food in a homey atmosphere. Park and Tilford Mall, 333 Brooksbank, North Van, 604-987-4300. $$

Fraiche A view restaurant with great food. Worth the drive up a mountain. 2240 Chippendale Rd., West Van, 604-925-7595. $$$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

Moustache Cafe An updated version of an oldie in chic new room. 129 West Second Ave., North Van, 604-987-8461. $$

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

Zen Japanese Restaurant Creative kitchen, quality ingredients. Good sake list. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. $$/$$$

n burnaby/new west

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

Boat House Conservative seafood menu. Restaurant overlooks Fraser River. 900 Quayside, New Westminster, 604-525-3474. $$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

Tamarind Hill. Malaysian cuisine, redolent with well-balanced spices. 628 Sixth Ave., New Westminster. 604-526-3000. $$

– COQUITLAM, POCO,

PORT MOODY

The Boathouse Good looks, water view for this seafood restaurant. 2770 Esplanade Ave. Port Moody, 604-931-5300. $$

Kirin Seafood Restaurant Chinese food for the discriminating palate. 2nd floor, Henderson Place, 1163 Pinetree Way, Coquitlam, 604-944-8833. $$/$$$

Pacific Rim Grille A sophisticated, intimate spot serving West Coast cuisine in a little plaza. 1126 Austin Ave., Coquitlam, 604-939-4000. $$

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

– RICHMOND

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Globe at YVR Impressive food, sleek contemporary decor with view of U.S. arrivals terminal. Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver Airport, Richmond, 604-248-3281. $$$

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Noodles and delicious pot stickers, panfried or steamed. 4600 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-273-0871. $

Shanghai River Shanghai style cuisine. Dumplings and noodles made in open kitchen. 7831 Westminster Highway, 604-233-8885. $$

Steveston Pizza Artisanal pizzas, high on organics. 3400 Moncton St., Steveston Village, 604-204-0777

Sun Sui Wah Impressive way with seafood. 4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8208. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting

– SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, tsawwassen

Crescent Beach Bistro Rustic country spot. Straight ahead food. 12251 Beecher St., 604-531-1882. $$

Giraffe Charming place, eclectic West Coast menu. 15053 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-6878. $$/$$$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2008

A seasonal dish so succulent, it sent my saucy spirits soaring

Mark Laba
Province

Ningtu

Where: 2130 Kingsway

Payment/reservations: Cash or Interac only, 604-438-6669

Drinks: Wine and beer

Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch, 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. for dinner, closed Wednesdays

There are so many beautiful sights stirring the senses this time of year as spring lurches forward on soggy little lamb feet. Lines of blossoming cherry trees dropping their pink and white petals to blanket the ground like a gentle snowfall, flowers blooming, scenting the air with their fecundity, snow on the mountains as a backdrop to the rare warm sunny day and the sight of 20 or so live spot prawns flopping about in a cheap plastic bucket, spindly legs kicking and antennae waving about like tiny semaphore operators.

It’s the latter that truly raises my spirits and sends my soul soaring.

So it was that I met the subject of my adoration in this unassuming place out on Kingsway. Specializing in Shanghainese cuisine, the décor is nondescript but neat and clean befitting a restaurant where the focus is simply on eating. Big round tables equipped with Lazy Susans are evidence that this is a place where large groups of family and friends gather for a feast.

We were no different as we welcomed back Peaches’ brother The Parking Lot, up from North Carolina for a visit and so the troops came out in force with the Doctor, the Dentists, the City Planner, the teacher, a gaggle of children and the only people missing it seems were the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker.

As we warmed ourselves over tea the live prawns were brought out for viewing. Moments later they reappeared simply done up with ginger, onion and sugar, a secret ingredient in many Shanghai dishes and so succulent I didn’t mind having to detach the heads and pull off legs to get at the flesh. A seasonal dish, so right now they’re $22 a pound. Get ‘em while they last.

Next up was Peking duck ($24.95), that classic two-course affair of crispy quacker skin and then the meat served with both pancakes and lettuce wrap and hoisin sauce. Wonderful and had the Lazy Susan spinning at warp speed.

Following this was a glutinous schlimazel of sole done up in a homemade rice wine sauce ($9), the fish as soft and tender as a kiss on the lips from Neptune’s sister. The good-looking one I mean. This dish was a crowd-pleaser and paved the way for the more foreboding braised bean curd with big brooding mushrooms ($7.95) that could have doubled as elves’ umbrellas. But beneath their menacing nature they proved to have a delicate pungent flavour and paired with the slithery bricks of tofu truly delicious, even if a bit of a challenge for the chopsticks.

There was also a decent ginger beef that balanced the flavours of sweet and spicy like a Chinese acrobat spinning plates upside down on a one-legged stool, savoury Shanghai chow mein, some sprightly wok-tossed green veggies but the crowning glory of the evening was the great Beijing dish, Beggar’s Chicken ($32). You need to call a day in advance for preparation time wherein a whole chicken is stuffed with Chinese mushrooms, shredded pork, bamboo shoots and dried vegetables, coated in flour (in the old days it would be wrapped in clay) and baked for hours. The inside reveals a dark mass of savoury innards, the combination of flavours a transporting experience.

It’s said beggars can’t be choosers and that’s usually true but when you tag along with a couple of dentists and a doctor even a schlub like me can go from Beggar’s Chicken to Peking Duck in the space of an evening.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

A menu as long as the Great Wall of China.

RATINGS: Food: B+ Service: A Atmosphere: B

© The Vancouver Province 2008