Eatery affordable, and offers a complex Pad Thai

Mark Laba
Province

BAAN WASANA

Where: 2143 West 41st Ave., Vancouver

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 778-371-8971

Drinks: Fully licensed

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

– – –

There’s an old Thai proverb that says “At high tide, fish eat ants; at low tide, ants eat fish. And there’s an old food-reviewer proverb that states, hell high or low tide, I’ll eat both and finish it with a plate of pig’s knuckles smothered in goose liver and woodchuck fat.

I decided to put the proverb to rest and just go out and eat at this little hidden gem up on the swanky stretch of Kerrisdale. It’s a soothing room painted Thai-chili red with black-and-gold accents and all manner of art and artifacts to set the mood for an exotic journey.

The Law, who tends to be a high roller when it comes to the choice of restaurants she frequents, had her usual look of disdain as I steered her and Peaches into this place. That look gave way to pleasure as she wolfed down an appetizer order of khiaw krob ($4.95), eight deep-fried wontons with small bulbous pockets of pork in the centre. Peaches and I managed to nab a few and the slightly sweet and pleasingly pungent dipping sauce was excellent.

We also hit the spring rolls stuffed with cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and glass noodles ($4.95). I’m always amazed at spring-roll ingredient listings because, no matter what you read, none of that stuff is discernable inside. Nevertheless this version delivered all the flavours, and the wrapping was as crisp as the crease in Elvis’s Las Vegas-years jumpsuit.

The chicken satay ($7.95) was also inspiring, with a seemingly built-in peanut sauce coating done during the grilling that had a light touch but deep-reaching tastes.

“I’m impressed,” The Law said. “Normally I don’t eat in places where there isn’t at least 20 pieces of cutlery per person.”

“And yet I’ve seen you gobble up Costco hotdogs like they were the last wieners on the planet,” I replied.

Next up was a flurry of dishes that comprised the main event. Gai pad prig khing, a chicken dish with curry paste, long green beans and red and green peppers ($9.25) was a sultry affair and as colourful as it was delicious. Beef Pad Ped ($9.25) was equally tasty, a bit more subdued with bamboo shoots and kaffir lime but the bit of chili lurked just nearby like a tropical storm looming on the horizon. My only beef was I thought there wasn’t enough beef on the plate.

A note of the Pad Thai noodles here ($9.95); Pad Thai being a ubiquitous dish that has lost its currency in many places as it’s just slapped together inconsiderately. On first glance, these noodles appeared unassuming and even lacked that odd, red, ketchup-like tinge that so many versions are imbued with. But on first bite, the complexity of the spicing rose to the forefront.

We finished with a wonderful Masamun curry ($9.25) chock-full of chicken and potatoes, soothed by coconut milk currents and the deep rich colour of a burnished golden Buddha. And, at these prices, I’ll be able to afford this meal for lifetimes to come, even if I can’t find an ATM in my next incarnation.

THE BOTTOM LINE: More bang for your Bangkok buck.

RATINGS: Food: B+l Service: B+; Atmosphere: B+

© The Vancouver Province 2007

Eastern European restaurant moves into a larger space, offering traditional, home-style cooking with Old World charm

Katya Holloway
Sun

This story begins far, far away in the mystical land of Transylvania. However, unlike Bram Stoker’s fictional fable, Dracula, this heart-warming tale doesn’t involve pale-skinned vampires in velvet capes.

Picture modern-day Romania. High school sweethearts Joanna and Nick are your average teenagers, plugging away at their homework and dreaming of a bright future.

The couple gets married, and at age 28, the Cruciats decide to leave Transylvania for a new life in Canada.

The family settled in Vancouver 11 years ago with the goal of starting their own restaurant, with culinary help from Joanna’s parents. After working away to set aside enough money, they opened a tiny eatery in Gastown three years ago called Transylvania Flavour Restaurant.

“It was our dream to open a restaurant,” says Joanna. “My father is a chef of 41 years and my mom is a pastry chef.

“Cooking has always been a big part of my family. If you ask any Eastern European, the solution to many problems is, ‘Eat something.’ “

Food is medicine, according to her culture, and the family has brought their traditional, home-style comfort food to their new location on West Broadway, which opened in June.

While the name Transylvania speaks of bloody fangs, garlic and Dracula-esque castles, this establishment has purposefully steered clear of kitsch vampire decorations, opting for a tasteful, sophisticated decor with an Old World feel. Think subtle elegance with red velvet drapery set against yellow walls, a deep red ceiling and gold-coloured picture frames.

“I didn’t want people to concentrate on the [Dracula] story but on the food,” Joanna explained later, jokingly adding: “We don’t cook with blood.”

Maybe not, but carnivores would be in their element here. The menu focuses on homemade cuisine passed down through the ages. It’s heavy on red meat-and-potatoes fare, with a vegetarian, trout and various chicken options also available.

Dishes include family recipes (cabbage rolls, sausages and borscht) and popular European dishes, such as chicken or pork schnitzels.

Given my mom’s Doukhobor background, perogies (vereniki to me) are a personal all-time favourite. I pounced on the Homemade Perogy Pillows appetizer ($10), which were filled with yam and cheese, topped with bacon bits, sour cream and a roasted red pepper-sauce drizzle. It was enough to stop my heart, but I happily munched on. The yam filling is a nice touch (as opposed to potato), although I would have liked more cheese in the filling. My dining partner, on the other hand, declared the pillows “perfect.”

We also ordered the Mini Meatballs ($8) with spiked Dijon & horseradish barbecue sauce. The homemade sauce was lovely and the meatballs weighty. Another popular dish here are the Mititei (Transylvanian sausages, $9), served with fries.

As for mains, the duck breast in apricot jus on potato-leek latke with glazed beets ($22) came highly recommended, and I’d order this again. The apricot reduction added a burst of tang to the baked duck, topped with the added texture of fried onions. The latke was delicious and although slightly greasy, wasn’t overly stodgy.

The grilled lamb chops in port infused demi-glace with mashed potatoes and seared fennel ($22) was cooked to perfection. Both mains came with the same pairing of veggies: carrots, asparagus, beets and green beans.

For dessert, try the flourless chocolate cake ($7), which packs a huge flavour punch in a rich, dense slice. Another curious option is the Transylvanian doughnuts called Papanash, which come with sour cream and house berry jam ($7).

The drinks menu includes cocktails, draft and imported beer (mostly $5) and a selection of Hungarian, German and French wines.

Transylvania Flavour Restaurant brings new blood to this corner of West Broadway and Arbutus. Stick your neck out and give it a try — if you dare.

– – –

TRANSYLVANIA FLAVOUR RESTAURANT

2120 W. Broadway, 604-730-0880

Open Tuesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; closed Mondays, www.transylvaniaflavour.com

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 4

Ambience: 3 1/2

Service: 5

Price: $$

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

Lebanese dishes come three different ways at downtown eatery

Mia Stainsby
Sun

It’s hard to run a place that’s almost fast food (not quite) and offers really healthy and organic food. But at Nuba, they manage to do that.

“And we don’t own a microwave or a can opener,” says Jeremy Duckworth, chef and co-owner. “We use organic beans and grains and as much organic [ingredients] as we economically can.”

This is the second outlet. The first, at 322 West Hastings, is a much tighter squeeze than this one, which is still casual but newly renovated and brighter. The menu is identically Lebanese with recipes based on another owner’s grandmother’s food.

Of note, Victor Bouzide’s grandmother cooked some of these dishes at the Chicago World Fair in 1893 when she was 13.

Bouzide eventually ended up in Windsor, Ont. where he opened several restaurants, including La Mishwi, a Lebanese restaurant. That’s where he and Jeremy Duckworth met up. Duckworth is his Nuba partner and chef.

There are a few tables at Nuba but a lot of locals do takeout. Dishes are done up three different ways — as mezze (appetizer size), pita (stuffed in a pita with lettuce, tomato and tahini); or as an main dish (served with tabbouleh, salad, hummus, pita and brown rice or potatoes). Prices range from about $4.50 to $10.

The red lentil soup is porridgey thick and quite a hit. They soak and grind the chickpeas for the falafel and make their own pickles. “Najib’s Special” is crispy cauliflower enhanced with organic lemon, sea salt and tahini; kibbeh is like a freshly ground lamb burger with veggies, pine nuts and spices mixed in and cooked to barely done.

The only disappointment was the house salad, which was huge and fresh but the dressing, with lemon and sumac, was overly tart. I left most of it but was well sated with my falafel dinner of ample portion. Vegans and vegetarians will find lots to choose from.

– – –

NUBA

206 Seymour St., 778-371-3266. Open for lunch and dinner daily. (The Hastings Street branch is open from Monday to Friday only.)

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

Billing itself as ‘nuevo Latino,’ new Gastown eatery uses traditional spices, ingredients, while giving them a unique twist

Linda Bates
Sun

Cosmopolitan Vancouverites have been travelling to South American countries like Peru, Equador, Argentina and Brazil and returning home with a taste for the food and drink of these locales, only to find out few restaurants in the city offer such fare.

However, other North American cities are discovering this culinary bounty. In Portland, the Peruvian restaurant Andina has won multiple awards. In Seattle, Mixteca (co-owned by Vancouver Latin Quarter’s Oscar Acosta) is bringing the haute cuisine of Peru to that city, with rave reviews.

Now, finally, at the new Gastown restaurant Cobre, the pisco sours are flowing and the likes of ceviche, empanadas and dulce de leche are on the menu.

This is not to say that Cobre, which bills itself as “nuevo Latino,” is presenting the traditional cuisine of any country. Executive chef/owner Stuart Irving, has come up with his own interpretation of the dishes — just as he did in his wildly popular previous restaurant, Wild Rice — making use of traditional spices and ingredients while giving them his own creative spin.

Irving and his partners Tyson Reimer (general manager) and Jason Kelly (beverage director) have created an elegant, sophisticated space in this Gastown heritage building, with exposed brick walls, slate floors and copper accents on the walls and ceilings.

I was initially wary — would this be one of those super-chic new lounge/tapas bars where someone over 40 years old and 110 pounds feels out of place? Or where you pay $60 for a diminutive portion?

I needn’t have worried. Diners included many families and even extended families, and the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. We ended up having a pleasant visit with the young couple at the next table, whose three-month-old daughter seemed entranced by all around her. Dishes, served tapas-style, are large enough that three or four (in the range of $12 each) are plenty for two.

We started with a surprise appetizer not on the menu. My dining companion had brought some zucchini from her garden for me, and as a lark, she gave one to the chef — who sent it back to our table, transformed into tiny zucchini tacos.

With that charming start we were set to like all our dishes, and we did. The scallops in the ceviche were sliced, not diced, and came with a jicama salad that set off the tartness of the fish.

Our chicken mole empanada was, once again, not like any empanada we’d seen, with the mole sauce inside the shell. The pineapple salsa was the perfect complement. An Ecuadorean quinoa salad with oranges, Brazil nuts and organic greens gave us our greens and contrasted nicely to our last dish, a flash-seared skirt steak with a peppercorn rub, combined with mashed potatoes with chorizo.

We wished we’d saved more room for dessert: it’s rare to find dulce de leche, a sort of caramelized sweet milk with fruit, on any menu, and my rich, creamy chocolate mousse with churros was the best I’ve ever had, the chocolate set off with a hint of hot pepper.

Don’t be intimidated by all the Spanish terms. Irving, who says he didn’t want to “English up” the menu too much, provides a glossary. It might sound like homework, but once you’ve tasted the flavours, you’ll want to know more about them.

The menu includes several types of South American cocktails and liqueurs, as well as more well-known ones like martinis, and a respectable wine list, all at reasonable prices.

Servers were friendly and attentive.

– – –

COBRE

Overall: 4

Food: 4

Ambience: 4

Service: 3 1/2

Price: $$

52 Powell St., 604-669-2396, Open daily 5 p.m. to “late,” www.cobrerestaurant.com

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

 

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Fish and chip-o-philes eagerly fill up at this North Vancouver eatery

Mia Stainsby
Sun

I’m good at stomping on my brakes when faced with big helpings of deep-fried foods and that would include the fish part of fish and chips. The good-girl part of me peels away the batter to get at the lean fish. As for the chips part, all right! I admit I’m not entirely immune to gobbling up big platters of them. Who is?

I know there are fish and chip lovers out there who know that with fat, comes flavour; so for them, I did this — went and tried C-Lovers Fish and Chips in North Vancouver, which I’ve heard is a good family stop for the English-y fare.

It’s part of a franchise with some six restaurants scattered throughout the Lower Mainland. I’ve only been to this one in North Vancouver and found both the fish and the chips quite delicious. The chips are not the industrial, frozen variety. Staff peel and cut the potatoes every day and cook them into crisp, golden sticks. And yes, I gobbled them up. They use halibut and haddock for the fish and you can have one or two pieces; you can also have fish without fries, but what’s the fun in that?

There are prawn and oyster dishes as well but most people go for the fish and chips. The true believers can go for all-you-can-eat fish and chips, where for $9.95, you get started with six small pieces of fish and chips and proceed to as many more plates as you wish. Fish and chip-o-philes, apparently, are a restrained lot, as at this location anyway, guests normally don’t go beyond two plates. (The all-you-can-eat offer is good between lunch and 3:30 from Tuesday to Saturday and from lunch to 7 p.m. on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday.

And no surpise, they get a lot of Brits. “Any of our regulars who are British love fish and chips and whenever they have family from Great Britain, they bring them here,” says assistant manager John Loucks.

Expect to pay $7 to $11 for a fish and chip dinner, depending on portions.

C-LOVERS FISH AND CHIPS

1660 Pemberton Ave., North Vancouver, 604-980-9993. Open for lunch and dinner, daily.

 

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

French, African and Turkish influences are wrapped into one tasty package at a new Commercial Drive eatery

Linda Bates
Sun

Perhaps because one of my most memorable meals was in Tunisia, I eagerly anticipated a visit to Carthage Cafe, Vancouver’s new Tunisian restaurant on Commercial Drive.

That long-ago meal was in Kairouan, a city with a mosque second in holiness only to those of Mecca and Medina. We’d gone to see the Grand Mosque but neglected to check whether it would be open the day we visited — and it wasn’t. We had a good time anyway, wandering the quiet streets and chatting with kids who politely hit us up for stylos — pens.

Many restaurants were closed, too, but we finally found one where we were the only patrons. The owner heated up the grill, threw on some smelts and vegetables, added olive oil, lemon and some spices — and it was magic.

The Carthage Cafe, open since May, doesn’t have grilled smelts on the menu, but it does do a fine job of producing the delicious French/North African/Mediterranean cuisine unique to Tunisia.

Owners, chefs and brothers Zico and Mohammed Draoui spent many years in Quebec City, where they both cooked in restaurants in upscale hotels like the Hilton and Radisson before the promise of a warmer climate drew them to Vancouver.

Zico (whom I had a hard time reaching, since he was often out shopping for fresh ingredients, a good sign) says the cuisine of Tunisia reflects the many cultures that have passed through the country, each leaving its mark.

In addition to North African dishes like couscous (pasta-like wheat granules) and tagine (a kind of slow-cooked stew made in a special dish) Carthage has, among other dishes, coquilles St. Jacques, bouillabaisse and creme caramel (France), as well as rosewater baklava (Turkey).

Everything I tried here over several visits was delicious. Look for home-made couscous rather than the instant kind, and generous use of saffron and lemon in the tagine and bouillabaisse. The lamb chops with mint sauce, (served with a Tunisian salad of tomatoes, onion and apples with herb dressing and french fries), featured a dark tasty sauce. The couscous Menani includes local halibut in a cumin sauce reduction. Halibut might not be Mediterranean, but it works beautifully in this dish.

Waiting for another visit is the delicious merguez, a spicy North African sausage, served here with salad and fries or in couscous. Also, one of the three mussel dishes will be calling me next time around.

I love restaurants that manage to have have an exotic, elegant feel without upscale prices, so at Carthage I was sold just walking in the door.

The crisp blue tablecloths, beautiful Tunisian hanging lamps and furnishings (provided by another Draoui brother, still in Tunis) and friendly black-clad servers set a tone, which, fortunately, the food was able to match.

In some places, Vancouver’s labour shortage is causing a decline in service. But not at Carthage. Somehow the Draoui brothers have attracted a cadre of young, enthusiastic servers who don’t seem to mind in the slightest when you send them repeatedly back to the kitchen with questions.

Tunisia produces some excellent wines, too, but unfortunately you won’t find a wine list yet at this restaurant. Although they’ve been approved to serve liquor, the civic workers’ strike has held up the issuing of a permit.

CARTHAGE CAFE

1851 Commercial Dr.

604-215-0661

http://carthage-cafe.com

Open Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Overall: 4

Food: 4

Ambience: 4

Service: 4

Price: $$

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

North Shore restaurant has a small but cozy dining room and an extensive, fairly priced menu

A.R. Wodell
Sun

On what passed locally for a hot August evening, we wanted a refreshing yet substantial cuisine. Knowing that the North Shore has become a commercial hub for our growing Iranian community, we decided to investigate a rumoured Persian hot spot.

Located at the western edge of the Ambleside shopping strip, just half a block from the West Van Memorial Library, Shalizar proved an interesting find in more ways than one.

The restaurant is quite intimate, with just room for a dozen or so tables, but conveys a decidedly upscale vibe. The staff made us feel instantly at home –rather as if we had inadvertently crashed an elegant party in a stranger’s living room. This reminded us of one of the persistent myths about Iranian cuisine: that it does not adapt well to restaurants and is best enjoyed in the home of friends.

Shalizar begs to differ. Its menu is extensive (bolstered by a lasagna, and even fish and chips, in what can only be considered an unnecessary nod to Olde West Van tastes). We turned directly to the pages devoted to the glory of Persian specialties.

Partly to accommodate a vegan friend who joined us at the last moment, we started with a generous selection of appetizers and were delighted by their humus ($3.95), piquant spiced green olives ($2.95), zeytoon — a marvellous pickled veggie relish ($3.25), and a killer eggplant dip ($6.95), all accompanied by delicious puffy bread.

Shalizar offers to prepare many of its main dishes without meat, but the true veggie find on the menu is the generous Shalizar salad ($7.95). It’s priced as an appetizer but bigger than many restaurants’ entrees, combining three types of cheese with avocado and assorted greens, topped with a slightly spicy house dressing.

For our two main courses we opted for black cherry rice with chicken ($14.95), which was tender, spicy, and tart all at once. It came with optional butter topping, and gheymeh ($10.95), a beef/splitpea/eggplant combination simmered in slightly smoky tomato sauce, served beside a substantial mound of saffron basmanti rice. Both dishes were garnished with small salads. A single taste of the cherry rice prompted our vegan to order a side dish of his own ($5.50).

A solid wine list was being enjoyed by most other tables, but we opted for doogh — a homemade yoghurt-based drink with a slightly salty undertaste ($2.75) — which made a very fine complement to the food.

Owners Andrea and Alireza Kenari (the latter a chef who does not cook at the restaurant but supervises all food purchases) acquired the former Olde Fish and Chips Shop in April of 2006, and spent ten months completely renovating the premises.

“We saw there was no fine dining in Persian style in Vancouver, and decided to take the risk,” Andrea said. “We opened on Valentine’s Day, February 14th, and we were instantly rewarded — the restaurant was full, and customers came up to us afterwards with tears in their eyes, thanking us for offering this cuisine. How could you ask for a better response?”

Shalizar offers decidedly exotic elegance in a warm and welcoming venue; its portions are substantial and its prices more than reasonable. Having sated our party of three for just $68, we vowed to return in order to sample other intriguing offerings. A warning: reservations are advisable.

– – –

SHALIZAR

1863 Marine Drive, West Vancouver, 604-921-9500

Lunch and dinner, open noon to 10 pm daily

Live music Saturday and Sunday evenings

Price: $$

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Fuel The food sings. A joy! 1944 West Fourth Ave., 604-288-7905. $$$

Gastropod Beautifully controlled flavours, great value for fine food. 1938 West Fourth Ave., 604-730-5579. $$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill A Vancouver moment by English Bay. Regional food. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

ITALIAN

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

La Buca A neighbourhood restaurant serving quality food, backed up by great service. 4025 MacDonald St., 604-730-6988. $$

Quattro on Fourth An Italian restaurant with flair. 2611 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4444. $$/$$$

CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Szechuan Chongqing An institution for those who love the incendiary fare. 2808 Commercial Dr., 604-254-7434. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

JAPANESE

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272; 1516 Yew St., 604-738-4272. $/$$

Kingyo Wonderfully crafted interior, interesting izakaya dishes. A slice of Tokyo. 871 Denman St., 604-608-1677. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 1133 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Jules Paris, anyone? Authentic food, authentic feel. Charming! 216 Abbott St., 604-669-0033. $$

Le Crocodile Refined French with incredible wines to boot. 909 Burrard St., 604-669-4298. $$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

GREEK

Kalamata Greek Taverna A popular souvlaki stop dressed in the familiar white and blue. 388 West Broadway, 604-872-7050. $$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Maria’s Taverna Friendly service. 2324 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-4722. $$

INDIAN

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Flying Tiger A menu reminiscent of Asian street food, only stylishly presented. 2958 West Fourth, 604-737-7529. $$

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Noodle Box Pan-Asian noodle and rice dishes, in modern get-up. 1867 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-1310. $

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Sanafir Pan-Asian and Mediterranean flavours in a trio of dishes. Innovative. 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049. $$/$$$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Go Fish Fab outdoor fish shack, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

LATIN AMERICA

Banano’s No-frills Venezuelan/Colombian cafe. Delicious arepas. 1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228. $

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Gusto Di Quattro Cosy, warm. Italian food. 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-924-4444 . $$/$$$

Higashi West Japanese tapas. Views of Burrard Inlet. 143 Chadwick Court, Lonsdale Quay, North Van, 604-904-3755. $$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

BURNABY/NEW WEST

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

Tamarind Hill. Malaysian cuisine, redolent with well-balanced spices. 628 Sixth Ave., New Westminster. 604-526-3000. $$

COQUITLAM, POCO, PORT MOODY

Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill Casual family retaurant. 550 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-939-3077

Kirin Seafood Restaurant Chinese food for the discriminating palate. 2nd floor, Henderson Place, 1163 Pinetree Way, Coquitlam, 604-944-8833. $$/$$$

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

RICHMOND

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Noodles and delicious pot stickers, panfried or steamed. 4600 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-273-0871. $

Shiang Garden Part of a successful Taiwanese restaurant chain. Impressive seafood. 2200 — 4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8858. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Giraffe Charming place, eclectic West Coast menu. 15053 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-6878. $$/$$$

Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club West Coast cuisine. Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club, 18150 — Eighth Ave., Surrey, 604-538-1212 $$/$$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Northview Golf and Country Club High-end dining, nestled amid acres of golf fairways. 6857 168th St., Surrey, 604-574-0324. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

It’s the best of Brazilian, Mexican, Argentine and Cuban fusion

Mark Laba
Province

I was watching Dora the Explorer with my three-and-a-half-year-old the other day hoping to brush up on my Spanish before hitting this new joint. I learned the Spanish word for jump and log, but unfortunately Dora never got around to pisco, tatemado or chayote.

Luckily Cobre supplies you with a glossary when you sit down to eat.

Billed as nuevo Latino cuisine, which means the kitchen is taking a bit of the best from B.C. ingredients, some fancy plate stylings and then driving that bus down Mexico and South America way. The three owners have all been around the culinary block with ex-executive chef of Wild Rice Stuart Irving heading up the kitchen. Tyson Reimer, no stranger to top-notch kitchens himself, is now shedding the apron strings to run the front end of the house. And Jason Kelly works the beverage angle.

Peaches and I stepped into this beautifully renovated space with three levels, a swanky wine vault for private shindigs taking up the main level. The bar on the first floor is a spiffy spot to sit, curving copper overhead while you get loopy on cocktails like the Tijuana Speedball or the Cobre Cobra. Nifty wine list to boot.

The top level has a secluded overview of the place that showcases timber beams, lots of brickwork and an off-white semi-circular banquette that wouldn’t have looked out of place in Pablo Escobar’s basement discotheque.

I was happy to discover a new beer from Argentina called Patagonia, which I found invigorating. As was the charred tomato achiote soup ($8), a dusky concoction with a smoky flavour and a subtle zing.

Perfect company for the chicken taquitos ($14) with an amazing homemade guacamole. Dip the taquitos in the soup and your tastebuds will hang 10 on your tongue.

Next up Peaches and I puzzled over the duck confit papusas with caramelized shallots hunkered down in a dark pool of mole duck jus ($12). These three small pale critters resembled some kind of outer-space pods. But the innards were savoury and the sauce amazing with the slightest sweet tinge to offset the quacker fat.

We forged ahead with grilled Gulf of Mexico prawns squaring off on the plate with star anise-speckled pane bread capped with pasilla corn flan ($16). Beautiful crustaceans with a bit of chili oil to shake them out of their deep-sea slumber and the only puzzling aspect to this dish to me was the bread flan combination. The pasilla chili emanated a pleasing heat but the wiggly custard coagulation and moist bread didn’t seem to have any relationship with the sea life.

We ended with the flash-seared skirt steak with peppercorn adobo, a baby Tijuana Caesar and excellent chorizo hash ($15). It lives up to its billing and works all the textural and taste angles.

“Y’know,” I said to Peaches. “I think this food might finally transform me into the Latin lover I was meant to be.”

“Yeah, well just don’t quit your day job,” she said.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

Living la vita cobre.

RATINGS: Food: A Service: A

Atmosphere: A

REVIEW

Cobre Restaurant

Where: 52 Powell St., Vancouver

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 604-669-2396

Drinks: Fully licensed.

Hours: 5:30 p.m.-late every day.

© The Vancouver Province 2007

 

The forgotten parts take centre stage, even without ketchup

MARK LABA
Province

It’s official. Innards are in again. Relegated to the organ heap for so long, restaurants are taking the awful out of offal with a variety of dishes in a wide range of cuisines. Innards used to be the mystery meat of choice for old-world recipes (my father’s favourite dish growing up in the Ukraine back in 1918 was lung-and-liver stew), but big-time current chefs like Mario Battali are leading the charge in the resurgence of the animal parts that time forgot. Well, in Filipino cuisine the innards never left the scene and no place is a better example of that than Sandy‘s, where home-cooking and entrails reign supreme.

My run-ins with Filipino cuisine in the past have tested my palate to the extreme, with everything from pig’s ears to tripe, and you’d think I would have learned my lesson by now, but I return again and again to beat my head against the slaughterhouse wall. And here my reticence was met by a double-barrel of guts cooked up in a variety of ways. Owner and chef Sandy Daza could be unofficially crowned the king of Filipino cooking and, though I joke about the ingredients, there’s plenty of dishes for the more timid of stomach and Daza is cooking some heady and redolent dishes.

Popped into this nondescript place, part grocery store, part restaurant in the turo-turo Filipino style, which means you go up the counter displaying a variety of steam trays and point to what you want to eat. The woman at the counter was very nice and patiently walked me through each dish. Deep-fried pork belly with liver sauce, sautéed beef lungs, pork-blood stew, diced pork face — I put on my best poker face at this parade of puzzling animal parts. Adventures in dining, my ass. This was Fear Factor Filipino-style. I thought, maybe with ketchup I might get some of this down. Luckily, there are other dishes that don’t test as severely the limits of your palate.

So Pandan Chicken for me ($7 for four pieces), the tender boneless poultry marinated in coconut milk and spices and fried in aromatic pandan leaves. Originally a Thai dish, this spin on an old classic is delicious.

Next up Paksiw Lechon ($7), a sweet pork stew that made my eyes fat just looking at it. A dark mire of sauce the colour of molasses, housing rectangular chunks of tender pork the size of iPods. Very satisfying.

Finally the Bicol Express ($6), a jalapeño-studded pork shindig done up in coconut milk. Curry-like consistency with a gentle heat that builds gradually but is never overwhelming.

It’s a huge menu as befits Daza, a one-man show with his restaurant, cooking classes and a cooking show on Shaw Multicultural Channel. From noodles to squid adobo, fish in tamarind sauce to menudo, you never know what awaits you at the steam table, whether it’s a pleasing tastebud coddling stew or a journey into the veritable underbelly of dining.

REVIEW

SANDY‘S CUISINE

Where: 4186 Main St., Vancouver

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 604-677-4807

Drinks: Soda pop and juices.

Hours: Tues.-Sat., noon-8 p.m.; Sun., 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; closed Mon.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

Home-cooking emphasizing aromatic tropical saucing and no part of the animal left behind.

RATINGS: Food: B Service: B+

Atmosphere: B-

© The Vancouver Province 2007