Mother of two opens doors to kids in strollers with menu of ‘alphabetty’ soup and fruit fries

Mia Stainsby
Sun

LITTLE NEST

1716 Charles St., 604-251-9994, www.littlenest.ca. Open every day except Monday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

– – –

Once they discover Little Nest, parents of young children will be saying their Hail Marys.

Little Nest was opened by Mary Macintyre for parents like herself, a child-friendly cafe where runny little noses, full diapers, messy eating and even the occasional tantrum are quite all right.

“Parents were feeling quite alienated around Commercial Drive,” says Macintyre, mother of a two- and three-year-old. “They feel hostility and don’t feel welcome in most places.”

When I was there, the tots broke free of their parental chains and sped to the play kitchen area to make their own make-believe meals. There’s a lot of room around the tables to park strollers and for kids to lurch about without bumping into tables. For parents, it’s like a home away from home.

Macintyre is also a good cook. She’s worked as a cook at Lumiere restaurant, helping the pastry chef, and she’s got some delicious food on offer.

For kids, there’s pizza, toasted sandwiches, vegetable and “alphabetty” soup, fruit fries (melon strips with a blueberry ketchup dip), chicken and lettuce roll-ups, cheese plates and silver dollar pancakes on weekends.

For grown-ups, there’s a roster of sandwiches on yummy Georgian baguettes, pastas (which change), soup, salads and all-day breakfasts.

The melon, feta, basil and black pepper salad was delicious, as was a fennel soup with pancetta. Cambozola, prosciutto and fig jam baguette would have been lovely except the fig jam introduced too much sweetness. A savoury rice pudding with apricot compote was addictive.

The coffee’s delish and the desserts have tell-tale signs that Macintyre picked up a few tricks from Lumiere’s pastry chef. We ordered an almond torte but we got a chocolate brownie which was too good (there was no stopping me). A plum cake was nice and rustic and loudly plummy.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

– WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s Consistently one of the city’s best. Almost 100 per cent organic foods. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$

Bridges For fine dining, head upstairs, and for casual, try the downstairs bistro. 1696 Duranleau, 604-687-4400. $$/$$$

Brix Large tapas selection, 60 wines by the glass. 1138 Homer St., 604-915-9463. $$/$$$

Chow. Delicate textures marries bold flavours. A successful union. 3121 Granville St., 604-608-2469. $$$

Crave Divine comfort food with elegant touches. 3941 Main St., 604-872-3663. $$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Diva at the Met High-end food, gorgeously presented. Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe St., 604-602-7788. $$$

Feenie’s Comfort food with a modern tweak and quality ingredients. 2563 West Broadway, 604-739-7115. $/$$

Fiction Young crowd, great tapas dishes. 3162 West Broadway, 604-736-7576. $$

Fuel The food sings. A joy! 1944 West Fourth Ave., 604-288-7905. $$$

Gastropod Beautifully controlled flavours, great value for fine food. 1938 West Fourth Ave., 604-730-5579. $$

Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar Hip, happening destination. Creative chef. 1079 Mainland St., 604-602-0835. $$

Lift Bar and Grill Gorgeously perched over Coal Harbour. Sibling to Monk McQueen’s. 333 Menchions Mews, 604-689-5438. $$$

Lucy Mae Brown Intimate space, assertive dishes. 862 Richards St., 604-899-9199. $$

Lumiere Tasting Bar The casual sidekick to famous sibling, Lumiere, next door. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$/$$$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Ocean 6 Seventeen Regional bistro food at its finest, in a cozy neighbourhood spot in the crook of False Creek. 617 Stamp’s Landing. 604-879-6178. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill A Vancouver moment by English Bay. Regional food. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

Rare An impressive, unique menu. There’s passion here. 1355 Hornby St., 604-669-1256. $$$

Salt Tasting Room Inspired charcuterie style food with wine pairings. Edgey surrounding. 45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912. $$

So.cial at Le Magasin Supple, flavourful food by Sean Cousins, a food pro. 332 Water St., 604-669-4488. $$$

Show Case West Coast menu that doesn’t shy from adventure. Vancouver Marriott Pinnacle Hotel, 1128 West Hastings St., 604-639-4040. $$$

Watermark Stunning Kits Beach view, sexy architecture, casual food. 1305 Arbutus St., 604-738-5487. $$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

– ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$

Il Giardino “New Italian” food, light with exotic elements. Big on game. 1382 Hornby St., 604-669-2422. $$$.

Incendio Great wood-oven pizzas, robust lineup of pastas. 103 Columbia St., 604-688-8694. $/$$

Incendio West Same as above, but in modern digs. 2118 Burrard St., 604-736-2220. $/$$

La Buca A neighbourhood restaurant serving quality food, back up by great service. 4025 McDonald St., 604-730-6988. $$

La Terrazza Knock-out looks, intelligent and friendly staff, traditional Italian food. 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449. $$$

Quattro on Fourth An Italian restaurant with flair. 2611 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4444. $$/$$$

– CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Imperial Seafood Fine Cantonese food, (expensive) in the lovely Marine Building. 355 Burrard St., 604-688-8191. $$$

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Legendary Noodle. Handmade noodles, made to order. Funky spot. 1074 Denman St., 604-669-8551. $

Pink Pearl It’s been around forever and is still a going concern. 1132 East Hastings St., 604-253-4316. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Szechuan Chongqing An institution for those who love the incendiary fare. 2808 Commercial Dr., 604-254-7434. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

– JAPANESE

Ajisai Sushi Bar Small neighbourhood spot with sushi that sings. 2081West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428. $

Black Tuna Tapas style Japanese dishes, sushi, lovingly cooked. 202 — 1184 Denman St., 604-408-7557. $$

Bliss Asian Bistro Almost totally organic or wild ingredients. Mostly Japanese tapas, some Korean dishes. 550 Denman St. 604-662-3044. $$

Chopstick Cafe/Shiru-Bay Great atmosphere, intriguing izakaya food, budget prices. 1193 Hamilton St., 604-408-9315. $$

Gyoza King Gyozas reign supreme. Open late. 1508 Robson St., 604-669-8278. $

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272; 1516 Yew St., 604-738-4272. $/$$

Japone Wonderfully inventive dishes on the ‘chef’s specials’ menu. 8269 Oak St., 604-263-6708. $$

Kingyo Wonderfully crafted interior, interesting izakaya dishes. A slice of Tokyo. 871 Denman St., 604-608-1677. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 1133 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Toshi Sushi Tiny place always packed for the fresh, tasty sushi. 181 East 16th Ave., 604-847-5173. $/$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

Zest Japanese Cuisine Grazing style modern Japanese menu in cool modern room. 2775 West 16th Ave., 604-731-9378. $$

– FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Cafe de Paris Traditional French bistro. Lots of character. 751 Denman St., 604-687-1418. $$

Cassis Bistro Low budget but mod interior. Delicious traditional French bistro fare. Good value. 420 West Pender St., 604-605-0420. $$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Elixir French brasserie in Yaletown; bistro food, haute quality. 322 Davie St., 604-642-0557. $$/$$$

Jules Paris, anyone? Authentic food, authentic feel. Charming! 216 Abbott St., 604-669-0033. $$

Le Crocodile Refined French with incredible wines to boot. 909 Burrard St., 604-669-4298. $$$

Le Gavroche French food in a charming old house. 1616 Alberni St., 604-685-3924. $$$

The Hermitage Beautifully controlled classic French cooking. Quiet atmosphere. 1025 Robson St., 604-689-3237. $$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

Mistral Authentic Provencal food cooked by former Michelin chef. 2585 West Broadway, 604-733-0046. $$

Pastis French bistro with a lightness of being. 2153 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-5020. $$/$$$

Salade de Fruits Very good value French country bistro. 1551 West Seventh, 604-714-5987. $$

The William Tell A Swiss-French restaurant. Service excels. Georgian Court Hotel, 773 Beatty St., 604-688-3504. $$$

– GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

Bouzyos Greek Taverna Lively atmosphere, better than average Greek food. 1815 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2533. $$

Kalamata Greek Taverna A popular souvlaki stop dressed in the familiar white and blue. 388 West Broadway, 604-872-7050. $$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Maria’s Taverna Friendly service. 2324 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-4722. $$

Simpatico Thirty-plus years old; traditional Greek restaurant with the addition of good pizzas. 2222 West Fourth Ave., 604733-6824. $/$$

Stepho’s Nightly lineups because of low prices. 1124 Davie St., 604-683-2555. $

– INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Chutney Villa South Indian cuisine, with dosas, idli and vadas. 147 East Broadway, 604-872-2228. $/$$

Clove An alternative Indian restaurant, funky, cheap beyond belief. 2054 Commercial Dr., 604-255-5550. $

Indica Indian dishes with western tweaks. Charming. 1795 Pendrell St., 604-609-3530. $

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Samosa Garden Smooth sauces, lovely food, good service. 3502 Kingsway, 604-437-3502. $$

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

Yogi’s Hip, contemporary Indian food, perfect for The Drive. 1408 Commercial Dr., 604-251-9644. $

– SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Azia Designy interior; deftly handled pan-Asian food. 990 Smithe St., 604-682-8622. $$

Banana Leaf Homestyle Malaysian food. 820 West Broadway, 604-731-6333 and 1096 Denman St., 604-683-3333. $$

Flying Tiger A menu reminiscent of Asian street food, only stylishly presented. 2958 West Fourth, 604-737-7529. $$

Kedah House Halal Restaurant Malaysian food with a light, nimble touch. 1654 S.E. Marine Dr., 604-325-9771. $

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Noodle Box Pan-Asian noodle and rice dishes, in modern get-up. 1867 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-1310. $

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Pondok Authentic Indonesian dishes, freshly cooked. 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$

Rekados Filipino Cuisine Finely cooked and presented Filipino food. Gracious service. 604-873-3133. $/$$

Salathai Thai Dishes are freshly prepared and consistent. 3364 Cambie St., 604-875-6999. $$

Sanafir Pan-Asian and Mediterranean flavours in a trio of dishes. Innovative. 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049. $$/$$$

Sawasdee Thai Gracious service keeps the regulars hooked. 4250 Main St., 604-876-4030. $$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

– SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Cannery Seafood Fine dining in rustic nautical decor on working waterfront. 2205 Commissioner St., 604-254-9606 $$$

Coast Restaurant Yaletown chic, shares kinship with Glowbal Grill and Satay. Seafood emphasis. 1157 Hamilton St., 604-685-5010. $$$

Finest At Sea A fish shop on one side, a fish cafe on the other, serving the ‘finest at sea’. 4675 Arbutus St., 604-266-1904. $

Fish Cafe Unpretentious, straight-ahead seafood at bargain prices. 2053 West 41st Ave., 604-267-3474. $

Fish House in Stanley Park Bold and imaginative seafood dishes by the creative Karen Barnaby. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., 604-681-7275. $$$

Go Fish Fab outdoor fish shack, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House Fresh shucked oysters, cedar plank salmon, grilled chops. High energy. 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940. $$$

Rodney’s Oyster House Specializes in very fresh shellfish and oysters. 1228 Hamilton St., 604-609-0080. $$

– AMERICAN

Memphis Blues Barbecue House Slow-cooked, southern style BBQ. Delish. 1465 West Broadway, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599. $

– VEGETARIAN

Bo Kong Buddhist-based menu using very fresh ingredients. Mild flavours. 3068 Main St., 604-876-3088. $

The Naam Wide variety of vegetarian fare. Quiet patio in summer. 2724 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-7151. $

– LATIN AMERICA

Banano’s No-frills Venezuelan/Colombian cafe. Delicious arepas. 1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228. $

Baru Casually chic South American food for discerning diners. 2535 Alma St., 604-222-9171. $$

El Taco Hole in the wall offering fresh and tasty Mexican fare. 788 Davie St., 604-806-0330. $

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Latin Quarter Mexican and Mediterranean tapas dishes as well as music in the evenings. 1305 Commercial Dr., 604-251-1144. $$

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

Mexico Rico A slice of Mexico. Very inexpensive, authentic Mexican cafe. 309 West Pender St., 604-688-7426. $

Rinconcito Salvadorean Restaurant Fresh Salvadorean cuisine. Lovely pupusas. 2062 Commercial Dr., 604-879-2600. $

Tio Pepe’s Yucatan food, nicely prepared. 1134 Commercial Dr., 604-254-8999. $

– MEDITERRANEAN

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

– EASTERN EUROPEAN, CENTRAL ASIAN

Accent Eastern European, French, Russian accents on a continental theme. 1967 West Broadway, 604-734-6660. $$

The Budapest Big doses of Hungarian comfort. Smouldering goulash soup. 3250 Main St. 604-877-1949. $

Rasputin Large selection of vodkas, wonderful live music and dishes such as grilled Georgian cornish game hen. 457 West Broadway, 604-879-6675.$$

– NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Bistro 1734 Traditional French bistro food in warm, friendly setting. 1734 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-8198. $$

Bravo Cucina Traditional Italian, cooked with care. 1209 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-985-3006. $$

Brown’s Restaurant and Bar Casually chic and bustling bistro with burgers, rice bowls, entrees. 1764 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-929-5401. $/$$

Dundarave Fish Market Charming spot; fabulous seafood from the adjoining fish market. 2419 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-1155. $

Casual Gourmet A mall restaurant offering gourmet bistro food in a homey atmosphere. Park and Tilford Mall, 333 Brooksbank, North Van., 604-987-4300. $$

Gusto Di Quattro Cosy, warm. Italian food. 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-924-4444 . $$/$$$

Higashi West Japanese tapas. Views of Burrard Inlet. 143 Chadwick Court, Lonsdale Quay, North Van, 604-904-3755. $$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

La Regalade Cote Mer Shares the same genes at La Regalade in Ambleside but with emphasis on seafood. 5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-921-9701. $$$

Mythos Whitewashed walls, azure blue trim say “sun-drenched Greece.” 1811 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-984-7411. $$

Nobu Tiny, with just enough room to make the lovely sushi. 3197 Edgemont Blvd.,North Van., 604-988-4553. $

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

Palki An Indian restaurant with a good grip on the spices. Fresh ingredients. 116 East 15th St., North Van, 604-986-7555. $$

Saltaire Gorgeous roof patio. Good value West Coast food. 2nd floor – 235 15th St., West Van, 604-913-8439. $$

Zen Japanese Restaurant Creative kitchen, quality ingredients. Good sake list. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. $$/$$$

– BURNABY/NEW WEST

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

Boat House Conservative seafood menu. Restaurant overlooks Fraser River. 900 Quayside, New Westminster, 604-525-3474. $$

Bombay Bhel Lovely Indian food. Menu features Mumbai-style snacks. 4266 Hastings St., 604-299-2500. $/$$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Orange Room Casual tapas. International flavours. 620 Sixth Ave., New Westminster, 604-520-6464. $$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

Tamarind Hill. Malaysian cuisine, redolent with well-balanced spices. 628 Sixth Ave., New Westminster. 604-526-3000. $$

Taverna Greka Greek cuisine. View of Fraser River. 326 Columbia, New Westminster, 604-526-6651. $$

– COQUITLAM, POCO, PORT MOODY

Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill Casual family retaurant. 550 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-939-3077

John B Pub Above-average pub food. 1000 Austin Ave., Coquitlam, 604-931-5115. $$

Kirin Seafood Restaurant Chinese food for the discriminating palate. 2nd floor, Henderson Place, 1163 Pinetree Way, Coquitlam, 604-944-8833. $$/$$$

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

– RICHMOND

Also Lounge and Restaurant A blend of Italian/French with Asian accents and high-end presentation. 4200 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-303-9906. $$

Big River Brewing Co. Pub, serving casual food. 14200 Entertainment Blvd., Richmond, 604-271-2739. $/$$

Bo Kong Restaurant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. No alcohol. 8100 Ackroyd Rd., Richmond, 604-278-1992. $

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Globe at YVR Impressive food, sleek contemporary decor with view of U.S. arrivals terminal. Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver Airport, Richmond, 604-248-3281. $$$

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Noodles and delicious pot stickers, panfried or steamed. 4600 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-273-0871. $

Quilon Restaurant Southern Indian cuisine with notably delicious dosas. 6030 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-303-0011. $$

The Rainbow Vegetarian Restaurant Deliciously prepared vegan and vegetarian Buddhist Chinese food. 8095 Park Road, Richmond, 604-273-7311. $

Shanghai River Shanghai style cuisine. Dumplings and noodles made in open kitchen. 7831 Westminster Highway, 604-233-8885. $$

Shiang Garden Part of a successful Taiwanese restaurant chain. Impressive seafood. 2200 — 4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8858. $$

Sun Sui Wah Impressive way with seafood. 4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8208. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

– SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Big Ridge Brewing Co. A Mark James restaurant and brew-pub. Families welcome. 15133 Hwy. 10, Surrey, 604-574-2739. $$

Crescent Beach Bistro Rustic country spot. Straight ahead food. 12251 Beecher St., 604-531-1882. $$

Giraffe Charming place, eclectic West Coast menu. 15053 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-6878. $$/$$$

Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club West Coast cuisine. Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club, 18150 — Eighth Ave., Surrey, 604-538-1212 $$/$$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Northview Golf and Country Club High-end dining, nestled amid acres of golf fairways. 6857 168th St., Surrey, 604-574-0324. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

– FRASER VALLEY

Bacchus Bistro At Domain de Chaberton Estate Winery. Limited hours. Mediterranean food. 1064 — 216th St., Langley. 604-530-9694. $$

Bravo Bistro Swish little bistro, run by former Delilah’s restaurant veterans. 46224 Yale Rd., Chilliwack. 1-604-792-7721. $$

The Seasonal Experience Adrian Beaty runs an ambitious kitchen with a Throw Away the menu option. 20226 Fraser Highway, Langley, 604-514-1311. $$

– SQUAMISH AND WHISTLER

Apres Quiet and intimate. Refined regional cuisine. 4338 Main St., Whistler, 604-935-0220. $$$

Araxi Restaurant & Bar Handsome Tuscan looks, regional cuisine. Outstanding wine list. 4222 Village Square, Whistler, 604-932-4540. $$/$$$

Brew House Rustic with cedar and timbers. Casual food for the family and house brews. 4355 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 604-905-2739. $$

Ciao Thyme Small and crowded but a budget-minded jewel. Great breakfasts. 4573 Chateau Boulevard, Whistler, 604-932-7051. $

Caramba! Mostly Italian but Spanish, Asian and regional flavours sneak in. 4314 Main St., Whistler, 604-938-1879. $/$$

Fifty Two 80 Bistro Every dish a ‘wow’. Gorgeous room. Four Seasons Hotel, 4591 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 604-935-3400. $$$

Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Co. The brew pub serves casual fare. The Red Heather dining room offers a finer menu. 37801 Cleveland Ave., Squamish, 604-892-2603. $/$$$

Il Caminetto di Umberto Umberto Menghi’s high-end Whistler restaurant. Features include game. 4242 Village Stroll, Whistler, 604-932-4442. $$/$$$

The Roadhouse Diner at Klahanie Pasta, light meals, entrees with West Coast flavours. Shannon Falls, Highway 99, 604-892-5312. $$

La Rua Refined tastes of the Mediterranean with B.C. backups. Romantic. Le Chamois Hotel, 4557 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 604-932-5011. $$/$$$

Quattro at Whistler Contemporary Italian cuisine. 4319 Main St., Whistler, 604-905-4844. $$/$$$

Rim Rock Cafe Chalet style restaurant consistently offers exquisite food. 2117 Whistler Rd., Whistler, 604-932-5565. $$$

Trattoria di Umberto Tucked away from the throngs but always packed.Lovely affordable Italian food. 4417 Sundial Place, 604-932-5858. $$/$$$

Val d’Isere Fine French, but casual atmosphere. Bear Lodge, 4314 Main St., Town Plaza, 604-932-4666. $$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

From sushi to hotdogs, doughnuts to deli, these are easy on the budget

Mark Laba
Province

Here’s a round-up of some of my favourite cheap eating spots, whether it’s take-out or perched on a stool dining with nothing to think about except a happy belly and an even happier pocket lining.

Au Petit Cafe

This place produces undoubtedly the best Vietnamese sub sandwiches in the city. Everything is great, served up on fresh and toasty French bread. Try the #1 with homemade ham, meatballs, cucumber, cilantro, mayo, carrots and hot peppers if so desired, the #2 with the same fixings but switching liver pate for meatballs plus savoury shredded pork or curried chicken variations. With a Vietnamese iced coffee, it’s a taste of heaven.

4851 Main St., Vancouver, 604-873-3328

Duffin’s Donuts

The brand new venue on East 41st Avenue near Knight includes Chinese food and Cambodian beef noodle soup also. Fantastic torta subs on fresh buns, loaded with lettuce, tomato, avocado and hot peppers. Try the spicy shredded beef machaca, chorizo and egg, the beef steak, ham and cheese or one of their new Vietnamese subs. Plus an Asian smorgasbord covering everything from lemongrass chicken to Szechuan beef and, of course, don’t forget the fresh doughnuts.

1391 East 41st Ave., Vancouver, 604-325-5544; 4898 Main St., Vancouver, 604-879-5551

Elena’s Country Kitchen

Besides the full-wall photo mural of alpine scenery that places you on a mountaintop somewhere, this place dishes up some great European treats. There’s all-day breakfast, pancakes, omelettes and classic lunchtime sandwiches but the real stars are the homemade perogies, sausage and cabbage rolls. This is simple comfort food right down to the apple pie or Rice Krispie square desserts.

1-5360 176th St., Cloverdale, 604-574-8806

Sabra Kosher Restaurant

This place makes a mean falafel and shwarma plate but that’s just the tip of the iceberg here. There’s also classic chicken and matzo ball soup, a veggie chili fajita with pita standing in for the tortilla, steaks, roast turkey drumsticks, penne Bolognese, classic dips like hummus or marinated eggplant plus extensive Chinese food listings. Black pepper beef, chicken chow mein and more on this recently revamped menu.

3844 Oak St., Vancouver, 604-733-4912

Nuba

The great take-out or eat-in quick- fix Lebanese cuisine that the original Nuba dished up is now available at this second location. Check out Najib’s Special of deep-fried cauliflower zapped with lemon and salt served up with tahini and hummus, great baba ganooj or mjadra, a lentil-and-rice concoction in a jalapeno-and-onion reduction, sirloin kebabs, amazing kibbeh with ground lamb, bulgur and pinenuts or shish tawook, which sounds like a Star Wars character but is really grilled chicken marinated with lemon, garlic and paprika. And the Turkish coffee here will either put hair on your chest or burn it off with each sip.

1206 Seymour St. near Davie, Vancouver, 778-371-3266; 322 West Hastings, Vancouver, 604-688-1655

Dona Cata Mexican Foods

A small family-run taqueria with authentic Mexican food and the most amazing array of homemade salsas. Try the combo platter with rice, beans and meat of your choice for soft taco wrapping. The spicy pork sausage longaniza, the carne enchilada, grilled bisteck, chicken mole or the pork al pastor are all excellent, simmered for hours to heighten the flavours and spices. On the weekends look for specialty soups like the hearty pozole, a corn hominy creation with tender pork and order it with deep-fried bean tacos on the side for dipping.

5438 Victoria Dr., Vancouver, 604-436-2232

Falconetti’s East Side Grill

Homemade sausages of the finest order that come in a specially designed bun to hold their curvature perfectly. I recommend the honey bratwurst, the Chaurice with Cajun-spiced chorizo, the 100 per cent ground-sirloin Polish creation, the tropical Thai Chicken with coconut, lime, curry and ginger, the Yucatan Chicken with cilantro and jalapeno or the good old sweet or hot Italian job. And the handcut Kennebec fries make a perfect side.

1812 Commercial Dr., Vancouver, 604-251-7287

Chicken World

A halal fast-food place focusing on clucker meat and there’s even a drive-thru for chicken-on-a-bun for those on the run. Chicken every which way but loose and running about. Try the jerk chicken, tandoori-basted or teriyaki sandwiches and burgers. They also do great fried chicken and honey-garlic chicken wings and, with fries and generous portion sizes, you’ll soon feel the gravitational pull of Chicken World and end up orbiting this planet of poultry regularly.

12842 96th Ave., Surrey, 604-588-0221

Hiroshi’s Sushi Creations

Besides the usual sushi and sashimi, this place has a listing for Creation Rolls. Almost sounds biblical. Tasty sushi cold-fusion concoctions like the Energy Roll with tuna, pumpkin and garlic lime sauce, the Refresh Roll with tuna, cilantro and lemon mustard, the Pumpkin Roll with parmesan and curry mayo or the smoked salmon shlimazel with red onion and ponzu. Sound strange? Your stomach won’t think so.

3720 Oak St., Vancouver, 604-737-7728

Thai Terrace

Chicken or beef sauteed with a variety of veggies and done up in a bevy of sauces from oyster to black bean to chili paste with basil leaves, along with tasty yellow, green or red curry dishes. Look for the Thai Terrace spicy pan-fried rice noodles or the Panang curry with lime leaves, basil, coconut milk and your choice of beef or poultry.

2872 West Broadway, Vancouver, 604-738-2824

Screaming Mimi’s

An amazing fresh seafood deli and oyster bar. Try the jalapeno creamy oyster on a bun, the Mediterranean marinated octopus salad, garlic beer prawns, the wild halibut melts, the crab and shrimp Louie, wild salmon rolled in puff pastry or the zingy ceviche chockfull of tasty sea critters just beckoning to be eaten.

Lonsdale Quay Market, North Vancouver, 604-987-3466

La Charcuterie Deli

Owner Salam Kahil calls himself the Sandwich Nazi and a sign on the door reads “This deli contains coarse language and nudity.” He told me, “if you want great sandwiches this is the place; if you want good service go elsewhere.” His sandwiches are certainly tasty. With names like the Brokeback Mountain’wich with Montreal smoked beef and garlic sausage, the Homy Cow’wich with Italian mortadella and hunter sausage and the Manwhore’wich with roast beef and beer sausage they’re as much fun to say as they are to eat.

19080-96th Ave., Unit #8, Surrey, 604-882-0881

Donair City Gyros

Sink your teeth into the Spicy Beef spiked with banana peppers and hot sauce or the Saucy Chicken that’s lathered with tzatziki and a hot or sweet sauce. There’s also a Hawaiian concoction, the Greek, the Maritimer or the Super Deluxe along with different meat or veggie variations on each theme. Build a donair city in your belly with these creations.

22329 Dewdney Trunk Rd., Maple Ridge, 604-466-8840

© The Vancouver Province 2007

New eatery’s ambitious menu features Canadian grown and produced food but some dishes need work to warrant the price

Mia Stainsby
Sun

METRO

Overall: 3 12

Food: 3 12

Service: 4

Ambience: 4

Price: $$/$$$

200 Burrard St. (Waterfront Centre building)

604-662-3463, www.metrodining.ca

Open daily for lunch and dinner

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

– – –

The city must be flush! Regardez la parade of new restaurant openings this summer. This week, I give you Metro, smack in the heart of downtown Vancouver.

The patio is a grabber and if you’re seated facing north like I was, beware Canadiana hypnosis. Across the street, Canada Place sports a giant video with a continuous loop of Canadian scenes and trivia — nothing profound, but despite my husband’s attempts to deprogram me, I was entranced.

The baseball glove and zipper — Canadian inventions! Standard time — Canadian! (Alas, poutine, Wonderbra, the retractable beer carton handle, snowblower and The Abdominizer — other Canadian contributions, didn’t make the cut.)

In the kitchen chef/co-owner Brian Fowke says Metro’s food is all about Canadian content, too — which means it’s about using everything and anything that’s grown or produced here.

Fowke took over the space with partner Tim Keller a few weeks ago. The two lock-stepped their way from Joe Fortes, where they both worked, to opening Rare, their high-end restaurant on Hornby, to this newest venture in corporate and tourist heartland. The low-key modern interior trumpets the beautiful-Vancouver view beyond. The diner’s elegance quotient goes up by simply stepping into the room, whether they’re in cruise ship pastel or Windsor-knotted corporate attire. Servers glide about confidently, in full hospitality mode.

The menu is ambitious and, on paper, a droolfest. Fowke sources local, high-quality materials to work with, which is a must for any serious restaurant today. The lineup of small plates and main dishes and “cut-to-order” dishes sounds wonderful but my meals weren’t without irritations and disappointments for the prices.

In some cases, flavours that should have shone, given the ingredients, didn’t; grilling and sauteeing left some dishes somewhat oily; and most noticeable, a savoury tart’s crust was mushy.

The menu was saliva-inducing but didn’t all follow through in a delicious way. Okay, I visited a couple weeks after its soft opening and they were still tweaking but I think it needs a lot of work to earn a double thumbs up.

One dish that could have been outstanding — the Tuesday special — a shellfish bouillabaisse (which contained non-shellfish seafood as well), arrived in a too-small bowl with contents filled to the brim. The server stepped gingerly delivering it but upon tasting, I found seafood and the lobster broth was delicious. Trio of wild salmon graavilohi (Finnish style salted salmon) was buttery; the Berkshire pork tenderloin with lentils, sauteed fennel and birch vinaigrette were lovely pieces of meat — the vinaigrette was perhaps too delicate and light for the meat, though.

One section of the menu, “Cut To Order” allows the diner to order proteins by the ounce, or in the case of the spot prawns I tried, by the piece. On it, the Nicola Valley venison with lingot bean, taro root sticks and cherry preserves was superb. The meat was juicy and flavourful, although the cherry preserves suffered from an interfering acid ingredient. I would have preferred the seasonal and beautiful spot prawns almost untouched, but it was oily from a heavy-handed sautee.

With other dishes, there were problems. The “Rooster Drops” — chicken drummettes with gremolata marinade and a hot chili tomato sauce — wasn’t cooked through and I recoiled at the blood. An onion tart with dried grapes, cheese and Dijon mustard, as mentioned earlier, had crust fatigue.

Presentation didn’t help matters in some cases — the food looked good but dividers on the plate separated out elements of a dish when often the whole is greater than its parts. And one more glitch that needs to be addressed: the tap water tasted of chlorine. I don’t know if the fix is as simple as a Britta filter, but chlorine taste is not a palate cleanser.

The wine list is categorized by characteristics (light and vibrant, full and rich, etc.) to make it user friendly and covers a lot of territory but with an emphasis on B.C. and the U.S. West Coast.

So! Lovely restaurant. Ambitious menu. Needs attention to warrant the price points.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

From the Perfect Storm to the classic Mai Tai, it’s all available at the remodelled Hudson Building

Joanne Sasvari
Sun

Is it time for the comeback of the umbrella drink? Well, just maybe, at least when it’s as delicious and, yes, stylish as the Perfect Storm.

In fact, the Perfect Storm — a blend of tropical juices and three kinds of rum, all festively garnished with a paper umbrella — is one of Brett Kawaguchi’s favourites on the cocktail list he created for The Shore Club.

“There’s something here for everybody,” the bar and restaurant manager says with a laugh.

For those who haven’t yet wandered through its etched glass doors, The Shore Club is the spectacular $8-million remodel of the Hudson Building on the corner of Granville and Dunsmuir.

It’s the latest restaurant and lounge in David Aisenstat’s remarkable lineup, which includes five Hy’s Steakhouses and more than 90 Keg Restaurants across North America, as well as Gotham just around the corner on Seymour Street.

None of those places, however, has the retro glamour of The Shore Club and especially its gorgeous lounge, with its deep plush chairs, dark wood, sculpted glass features and soaring ceiling.

“The whole idea of the place was to recreate that cruise ship, steamer, back-in-the-day kind of feeling,” Kawaguchi says.

To enhance that ambience, when bar staff created their cocktail list, they included a number of almost-forgotten favourites, such as the Mai Tai and the Sling — only modernized and transformed with top-quality liqueurs, liquors and fresh fruit purees.

“Like a lot of David’s restaurants, classics kind of run through things,” Kawaguchi says.

The Granville Sling, for instance, is made with Giffard lychee liqueur and Tanqueray gin, while the Hudson Bellini is based on the classic Prosecco and white peach puree cocktail, not the “slushy, mushy” concoction found in too many bars.

Yet, while the drinks offer a nod to the past, Kawaguchi and his staff refuse to cling to outmoded trends like the cranberry and blueberry juice crazes of a few years back.

“We tried to move away from being too pink-drinked,” he says.

Now this is a lounge we want to lounge in.

RECIPES

Hudson Bellini

A variation on the classic Bellini as invented by Harry Cipriani at Harry’s Bar in Venice.

1 oz Bacardi white rum

1/4 oz Marie Brizzard peach liqueur

1 1/4 oz white peach puree

About 4 drops Pama pomegranate liqueur

Mionetto Prosseco

Mix rum, liqueurs and peach puree in a champagne flute. Top with Prosecco or other sparkling wine and stir very gently. Serves 1.

Perfect Storm

1 oz. Bacardi white rum

1 oz. Bacardi dark rum

1 oz. Bacardi amber rum

2 oz. passionfruit juice

2 oz. lime juice

2 oz. guava juice

2 oz. guava puree

Place rum and juices in a blender with a few ice cubes. Blend until smooth, then pour into a tall glass. Garnish with a slice of pineapple and a paper umbrella. Serves 1.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

The Point in Steveston, a West Coast-inspired eatery, features locally grown produce and in-season seafood right off the fishing boats

Michelle Hopkins
Sun

It’s been a long-held tradition in our family to head to Kitsilano for a Mexican feast whenever one of us has a birthday. But this year, I suggested we celebrate my son Jeffrey’s 22nd by trying somewhere closer to home.

Grudgingly, Jeff agreed to visit Steveston’s newest West Coast-inspired eatery called The Point.

We took a seat on the Mediterranean-style patio and Jeff — as well as my eldest son Mathew — admitted they liked the restaurant’s ambience.

Nearly every outdoor table was taken, as well as a number of tables inside, which came as a surprise given that it was a Wednesday night, the restaurant is somewhat off the beaten track and it only opened in mid-May. (This was the location of La Pergola Italian restaurant for many years).

We ordered a number of appetizers. The Bruschetta was a stand-out dish, with a balsamic reduction drizzled generously atop a mound of tomatoes, onions, fresh basil, oregano and melted parmesan. They also gobbled up some seared jumbo scallops served with roasted red pepper coulis. A man of few words, Mathew says they were “fresh” and “delicious.”

They ordered Saltspring Island goat cheese next. The cheese was warmed and served with a wonderfully aromatic black balsamic reduction and house-made crostini rounds.

The service was friendly and we were comfortable, sipping our Australian red wine in oversized glasses. The Point offers a selection of wines in a wide price range, although I would have preferred a more extensive list.

For our entrees, I went for the hot and spicy Cajun halibut, dusted in The Point’s own Cajun spices, pan seared and served with a delicious cranberry chutney (I could have used more, it was so good). Mathew and Jeff both went for the Pointed New York, a triple-A, eight-ounce strip loin finished with Salt Spring Island goat cheese, potatoes and vegetables. If plates void of any food are any indication, it’s fair to presume my sons both enjoyed their meals.

Derkson came over to say hello and ended up serving us; he has worked in the industry for more than 23 years honing his skills at a number of different restaurants in Richmond, most recently as the manager of the waterfront Shady Island Seafood Bar & Grill.

Born and raised in Steveston, Derskon has kept this truly a family-run eatery. Both chefs James Dawson and Stacey Baker are cousins.

“We want to come in with great food at a great price point and bring something for the locals,” said Derkson.

Taking advantage of the Steveston docks a mere five minute walk away, all the seafood [in season] is fresh and the produce is locally grown.

“Your food doesn’t have to travel too far to your plate,” he says.

Over coffee, Derkson surprised us by bringing carrying over a generous piece of decadent chocolate cake, which his mother bakes for the restaurant, and the patio patrons burst into a rendition of Happy Birthday. I love Steveston and I’ll certainly come back to The Point.

The absolutely delightful restaurant — which is walking distance from Garry Point Park — seats 40 inside and 20 on the patio. If Wednesday is any indication, I’d make a reservation for a weekend dinner.

AT A GLANCE:

The Point

100 — 3131 Chatham St., Richmond

604-277-7118

Open seven days a week, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5-10 p.m. Closes Sundays at 10 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

The best cart in the city needs no menu — it serves up a big, fat hot dog of prime pork

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A few weeks ago, I wrote about an unusual hot dog cart: Japadog, at Burrard and Robson, which has a distinctly Japanese approach. Today, I write of another.

Fetch (get it?) stands out by being the best hot dog cart in the city. There’s no menu to speak of. There’s just one kind of hot dog with a big fat sausage made with coarsely ground pork and none of that filler or byproducts of anything. It’s all meat.

“No L and A,” as proprietor Sean Heather put it, referring to “lips and ass.” (The salty-tongued Heather owns Salty Tongue, Irish Heather and the very hot Salt.)

The big bun surrounding the big sausage is specially made by Patisserie Lebeau and is a fancy-dancy elongated brioche. There are three condiments, all made at one of his restaurants — a sauerkraut, red onion and piccalilli relish with chopped veggies, spices and mustard.

It’s cooked the New York way: boiled, rather than barbecued.

“In New York, it’s called the Dirty Dog because the water gets discoloured over time. It’s a real tradition in New York and Chicago but here in Vancouver, we’re the only ones doing it that way,” says Heather. He made $8,000 renting his boil-a-wiener cart to film crews replicating New York streets — twice what he paid for it. He relished that little bit of profit because friends gave him a hard time about the expensive cart sitting unused for a good year or so.

The Fetch dog costs $4.50 or you can get a bag of chips and beverage with the hot dog for $6. There is a veggie alternative for the kinder, gentler vegetarian sort if they don’t mind it being cooked in the same hot water.

“Jamie,” who was tending the cart when I stopped by, was made for the job. I found out she’s an actor (musicals) and so you’re not likely to wait in awkward silence as your sausage heats.

[email protected]

– FETCH

Northwest corner of Water and Abbott Streets. Open Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

‘Orient Express’ trip led to inspiration

Ashley Ford
Province

A section of the historic Waterfront Station that has been sealed off from the public for 30 years is being reborn as a restaurant evoking the golden age of rail.

Owner Eli Gershkovitch got the idea of breathing new life into the station a few years ago while riding on “the” icon of rail travel, The Orient Express, from Paris to Istanbul.

“Canada has just as an impressive rail history and there was this magnificent space available that had been closed to the public for 30 years, to do it in one of the original grand railway stations in North America,” he said.

His TransContinental Heritage Restaurant and Railway Lounge, built in the east end of the station in the former “women’s waiting area,” will open this weekend.

Gershkovitch signed a long-term lease with the Ontario Teachers Pension Fund, the building’s owner, and started transforming the 7,000-square-foot space a year ago into a mid-priced seafood/steak restaurant and bar.

He won’t divulge how much he has invested except to say “gobs and gobs of money.”

The eatery will have a strong Canadian theme, including train art and Group of Seven pictures producing memories of a gentler, more peaceful time.

“The goal is to capture the drama, elegance and romance of the period and it will feature many touches of that,” he said.

“This was the era of when the journey was itself more important than the destination.”

“We want to integrate the elegance, grandeur, history and lore of this place into a dining experience.

“But it is also our goal to make it a totally inclusionary venue where Vancouver locals, the business crowd and tourists can easily rub shoulders in comfort,” he said.

The restaurant will officially open this weekend and is spread over three storeys with impressive, curving grand staircases.

There will be seating for more than 250 customers and even the dishes and cutlery are designed in the art-deco mode of the 1930s.

Gershkovitch also operates the nearby Steamworks Brewing Company.

The latest project was designed by Soren Rasmussen, a Vancouver architect who has won awards for previous heritage restoration work.

The venture is creating 100 new jobs.

The station, which was originally the western terminus for the Canadian Pacific Railway, opened in 1917. It was used by generations of railway travellers until the last passenger train left the station in 1976.

Today, thousands of commuters flow daily through the building and it is again one of the most important transportation hubs in Vancouver, linking SkyTrain, Seabus and West Coast Express.

The final touch will be the long-awaited clean-up of the much-admired CP veterans statue outside the restaurant.

Gershkovitch is holding to his early promise of cleaning it but says many other parties are involved and have yet to reach agreement on how it should be done.

© The Vancouver Province 2007

 

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Seekers of chic and styled dishes at highbrow restaurants (you know, the deep-fried sage leaves, the slashes and gashes of sauces along with julienned veggies) might be surprised at the spartan presentations at this elegant restaurant.

But a restaurant mogul like David Aisenstat doesn’t make stupid moves — and now he sees a market for the old-school menus and comfortable terrain.

He’s now running six successful Hy’s steakhouses across Canada, nearly 100 Keg restaurants, Gotham Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar on Seymour Street, and now, the darling of the empire, The Shore Club, an $8-million beauty.

The food excels in two areas — the meat and the fish. They’re both very simply prepared but absolutely top notch. The fish is given a little touch-up — lemon beurre blanc, Pernod and herb butter, and other light saucing, but otherwise, it’s hands off. Sides have to be ordered separately. (It all adds up to a sizable bill.)

Eight million dollars says this is a confident move, even though Aisenstat is kind of cannibalizing Gotham, and even Hy’s (which caters to an older power crowd).

“We think they’re going to complement one another,” says general manager Megan Buckley. The fact that Gotham’s getting busier and even Hy’s is picking up steam was evidence enough.

Shore Club does a good job seducing a fairly conservative audience and, in particular, the male palate. The sides weren’t terribly impressive but my (typically male?) husband got all blubbery about his steak.

Shore Club has gone heavier on seafood than any of Aisenstat’s other restaurants. The Alaskan black cod (renamed sablefish in hipper restaurants) was beautiful; a stuffed rainbow trout was very flavourful; and Dungeness crabcake, quoting my husband, was the best he’s had. It was a big puck of fresh crab.

The crab bisque, however, would have cooked my tongue had I dove right in and an oyster stew was good but not great. The rib-eye steak ($40) was nicely marbled, juicy and delicious; double-cut lamb chops came buttery (and three to a plate).

For dessert, I tried a delicious brownie with ice cream; an old-fashioned banana cream pie taunted me with a thick layer of whipped cream atop the coconut custard. “Eat me,” it said, but I scraped the cream off as my husband winced in pain.

Prepare to open your wallet wide. The proteins cost $29 to $65 and side dishes are $7 to $11.

The wine list is impressive, with some 300 choices, a good portion of them high-end and global. “We try to find out what our guests are interested in and make an effort to bring in unknowns,” says Buckley.

But Shore Club isn’t just about the food — it captures an old-fashioned glamour. Walk into the mahogany-lined entrance and you feel swell. At the bar, one would have to levitate 35 feet before hitting ceiling, shooting past a mezzanine dining area on the second floor en route. The hostess must hike the equivalent of the Grouse Grind in high heels each evening, squiring diners up the long set of stairs to the dining area. In one case, an older couple looked positively exhausted by the time they reached the peak. (Take the elevator!)

Service comes with a retro glamour with an attentive wait staff in white jackets. Our server on both occasions impressed the heck out of us — when I inquired about him, I discovered he immigrated from a Keg restaurant. He didn’t have to tell me his name was Chris. It was written on his jacket.

– – –

THE SHORE CLUB

Overall: 4

Food: 4

Ambience: 5

Service: 5

Price: $$$

688 Dunsmuir St., 604-899-4400, www.shore

Open for lunch, dinner and cocktails daily

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Metrotown’s Tomoya Sushi finds a winning combination with rich, innovative sauces and minimalist seafood dishes

Alfie Lau
Sun

The first thing you’ll notice when you step into Tomoya Sushi — a cosy Metrotown eatery — is the bright yellow shirts worn by staff.

But after taking a couple of bites of their Japanese-French fusion-style cuisine, you’ll be talking about the food, not the attire.

Tomoya, which means “good friends” in Japanese, opened last autumn, with owners Stuart and Stephanie Xue and their partner Vincent Zhang looking to offer more than just Japanese food.

The idea of Japanese-French fusion appealed to Stuart and Stephanie, who wanted to combine rich French sauces with minimalist Japanese seafood offerings.

“Our focus was on bringing together some flavours into dishes you won’t be able to find anywhere else,” said Stuart. “We had Vincent looking to put together the right recipes, the right combinations on some rolls that our customers are really enjoying.”

On a nice summer afternoon, I and some “good friends” visiting from Edmonton decided to see what Tomoya was all about.

My friends loved looking at Tomoya’s menu, as pictures accompanied many of the more adventurous dishes offered. They remarked there wasn’t anything comparable in Edmonton and were eager to mix the traditional with the new.

For our appetizers, we stayed in our comfort zone, ordering a California roll topped with tobiko (fish roe); the 11-piece assorted sashimi and some veggie tempura.

The California roll, always a safe choice, was a nice appetizer but I was more interested in the sashimi. The veggie tempura was a pleasing hot dish that was neither too oily nor too hot.

We continued with three of the signature rolls — the Tomoya, the Philadelphia and, because we were in my hometown, the Burnaby. Each came in eight hefty portions. The Tomoya, topped with shrimp, and the Burnaby, which is wrapped around tempura and crab, were very good, but paled in comparison to the Philadelphia roll, which featured large slices of salmon sashimi on top. Add in the Philly cream cheese drizzle and you have a simply mouthwatering dish.

Tomoya also doesn’t scrimp on size or traditional Japanese menu items.

We decided to share the tempura udon, which for $6 gave us a heaping soup bowl of noodles and five pieces of tempura. We also ordered the beef steak teriyaki on rice and the unagi don (barbecued eel on rice).

“The eel is done almost perfectly,” my friend said. “It’s a hard dish to do well because it’s often overdone. But this is the best I’ve had.”

The udon would have probably been a better choice on a cold night but for $6, it was excellent value. The beefsteak teriyaki, which we ordered medium rare, was a nice way to finish the meal.

“We’re very happy with how business has gone since we opened,” said Stuart of the 33-seat restaurant. “We’re always really full on the weekends and we’re making sure that our quality is always consistent. We think we’ve hit on some good recipes and if we keep that consistency, customers will keep coming back.

“We’ve already heard from customers that they love our rolls and will come back just for a Tomoya roll or the Philadelphia roll.”

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Tomoya Japanese Restaurant

A1-6285 Nelson Ave., Burnaby (corner of Nelson and Kingsway)

604-437-8839

Open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

 

© The Vancouver Sun 2007