Owner George Panago expands Steveston’s menu of steak and seafood with schnitzel, souvlaki and pasta at his two-year-old establishment

Tara Lee
Sun

Nestled in Steveston Village, Correli’s Restaurant woos patrons with ample portions of well-executed, uncomplicated food.

The warmth of the service reflects a restaurant that takes a sincere, straightforward approach to pleasing the appetites of its patrons.

Owner George Panago, who has worked in the industry for 32 years, wanted to change the Steveston dining scene when he opened Correli’s more than two years ago.

“In Steveston, two or three years ago, you could only get steak and seafood,” he says. “After being in business for so long, I knew what people wanted. “

Panago’s response to this dining monotony was a menu that offers a mix of pasta, souvlaki, schnitzel, steak and seafood entrees that defy a single national categorization.

Panago describes the restaurant as “comfortable and not too plush — no white linen and crystal ware.” And by the looks of the packed room on a Friday night, the establishment is a winning recipe with Steveston crowds.

If only the bread basket was equally inviting. We passed on the offering of generic white bread and went straight to the starters — pan-fried oysters ($6.75) and deep-fried calamari ($6.50). The oysters were sizable and the calamari generously portioned, albeit weighted down by breaded coating.

Numerous overcooked steak incidents have taught my sister the value of insistence. Fortunately, her New York steak ($17.95) arrived blue rare, convincingly peppered and accompanied with perfectly cooked clam linguine with a healthy dose of garlic.

Meanwhile, my schnitzel Oskar ($14.50) topped with a garlic lemon cream sauce and a sprinkling of shrimp, dominated my platter alongside a helping of pan-fried potatoes. The meat was tender and the sauce was rich without being smothering. The vegetables, though, were bland and uninspiring.

We ended the meal with the bacio bianco ($4.95), a white chocolate ice cream globe with raspberry filling and a white chocolate coating. While it was unremarkable and definitely not made in house, it fulfilled our yearnings for something sweet.

All in all, a pleasant evening out for two diners seeking a low-key meal at low-key prices.

Tara Lee is a freelance writer.

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Correli’s Restaurant

160 – 3900 Bayview, Richmond

604-272-7264

Open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Something to crow about

Mark Laba
Province

SENHOR ROOSTER RESTAURANT

Where: 850 Renfrew St., Vancouver

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 604-434-1010

Drinks: Fully licensed

Hours: Tues.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sun., 5 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Closed Mon.

– – –

As a kid, my two cultural idols were Foghorn Leghorn and Mr. Spock. I soon realized I’d never attain the cool logic and personality of a Vulcan, but I could certainly embrace the barnyard idiocy and blustering banter of a half-cocked rooster. I imagined that if old Foghorn Leghorn wanted an ounce of respect, he might go off to some European boarding school and return not as a Southern hick but as a rooster of wealth, breeding and good fortune, perhaps as Senhor Rooster, the playboy known from the Costa del Sol to Portugal.

Hearing about this place, I was anxious to taste how chickens got an upgrade, making the transition from the world of Col. Sanders to the flame-grilled piri-piri sauce-spiked sunny shores of the Algarve. The chef and owner, Daniel Alexandre, has been making small waves in the culinary community with his unpretentious restaurant, now moved to bigger digs and attracting the stalwarts of the Portuguese community along with those looking for rustic flavours, grill mastery and great saucing.

Paid a visit with the X-Man and we arrived to find ourselves the only ones in the place. It felt like one of those Mafia scenes where the restaurant is cleared out for a meeting between crime bosses. But the X-Man and I barely have a nickel to rub between us, so if I wasn’t knocking him off, I doubted he was planning my demise, either. That settled, we got down to the real business of the evening — eating. The owner and chef himself, Mr. Alexandre, served us and said it wasn’t always this slow a night and the weekends really start hopping when he has live music and a dance floor going. I think with the recent move and Dine Out going on, this restaurant has been overlooked and is well worth the discovery.

Started with an appetizer of grilled sardines ($9.95) and a small complimentary plate of Portuguese sausage and some very tasty and zesty pickled veggies and olives to get the palate kick-started. The sardines were of the large variety, meaning not those skimpy things crammed into tins that bill themselves as millionaires. These critters seemed as long as my forearm and grilled to perfection before being finished off with a slight basting of olive oil and balsamic.

“Watch how it’s done,” X-Man said as he de-boned the sardine like Hannibal Lecter. The flavour was amazing, a little earthy, a little salt-water laden with the balsamic tweaking the pungent fish flesh with a bit of sweetness.

For mains, X-Man chose the dry cod with onions, shredded potato and egg ($18.95), while I took on the succulent flame-grilled whole Cornish hen ($16.95). X-Man’s dish is a Portuguese classic, a hearty mound of complimentary flavours that truly embodies the rustic nature of Mediterranean comfort. My Cornish hen was simply amazing, piri-piri sauce sumptuously encrusting the flame-tinged skin and protecting the juicy meat. A fresh side salad cooled the tastebuds ignited by the fiery homemade piri-piri.

One visit can’t do justice to the wonders that await, from prawns piri-piri to crab cakes, pork and clams to baby back ribs as well as specialty items like paella or the mariscada seafood platter. And, of course, a Cornish hen so enticing it would have Foghorn Leghorn shopping for a wedding ring.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Hearty flavours from the sun-drenched shores of Portugal.

Grade: Food: A; Service: B+; Atmosphere: B+

© The Vancouver Province 2007

 

One of the greatest features of the new space is the sake lounge and bar, which will soon have its own menu

Mia Stainsby
Sun

The $800 Kitano knife isn’t just for show. It’s as smooth as a Porsche; an amazing cutting tool. If you put the cut fish under a microscope, you’d see a clean surface that somehow dams in the juices. A lesser jobbie tears fibre, releasing moisture.

That’s just one answer to the “why” behind Hidekazu Tojo’s celebrity chef status. Okay, he’s a colourful character, a superb marketer and attracts celebrities like iron filings to a magnet, but hey, good on him! The night we visited to check out his gorgeous, crisp, modern new digs (costing upwards of $2.5 million), Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler had called offering congratulations.

“Jessica Alba is coming next week. I have message from her,” Tojo says. “The prince of Holland [is] coming in March.”

Some dishes are named after his famous guests, like the Magnum P.I. Tamaki — “Tom [Selleck]’s favourite.”

“Hello, my friend!” Tojo shouts across the room when Trevor Linden and his wife walk in. They sit next to us. There was no fawning, no fussing over them, after an initial attempt to find them a private room. One wasn’t available.

With mere mortals, however, service is a weak point in this high-end Japanese restaurant. I feel they coast on laurels.

Tojo bought the property from a regular customer and built his dream restaurant. “I can stay here forever,” he says, exhaling with relief upon seeing others having to move because of sky-rocketing rents. One of the cool features about the new space (he really did outgrow his former unremarkable second-floor rental) is the sake lounge and bar which will soon have its own menu. There’s also a large private room for 30 with a rock fireplace and adjoining outdoor garden.

I’m a big fan of Tojo’s sushi and sashimi but find his cooked dishes sometimes overwhelmed by sauce. The sushi is absolutely superb, with pristine fish, lovely sushi rice and the best nori. I ordered uni nigiri because really good uni, which should taste of ocean, is a rare find in Vancouver. I found it here.

After a Northern Roll, tuna tataki (which came with orders from the top: “No wasabi, please!”), we moved to the hot dishes — ankake tofu, which features delicious deep-fried tofu but such a delicate dish shouldn’t be wading waist-deep in sauce. And ditto, the halibut cheeks; beautiful fish, but too much sauce. Tempura, though, was a different story — not at all oily, delicately battered, and veggies and prawns perfectly cooked — it was impressive.

A meal at Tojo’s will be expensive (the tempura was $21 and the halibut cheeks, $27) but you are assured of quality and the man certainly knows seafood. A meal of sushi, though, is more painless. Our maki was $8, and tamaki, $6.50.

“No, we are not expensive,” Tojo says when I bring it up. “We use the best ingredients, no MSG, everything is cooked from natural products. It’s the right price. I compare it to high-end French restaurants. I use the same material.”

Rice is all-important and Tojo mixes high-grade, one-year-old and two-year-old rices. Younger rice contains more moisture and helps with the sushi sticking action. He uses about 20 per cent of the young rice because he doesn’t want it too sticky.

Those who worship at his feet order omakase ($60, $80, $110 or up), letting the chefs take control of their care and feeding.

It’s where you find the chefs at their most creative (and sometimes bizarre), with dishes like soybean nori with ume (sour plum) mozzarella cheese and mountain potato; scallops with rhubarb; hirame and monkfish liver wrapped in sui choi; and king mushroom and lion mane mushroom in parchment.

While there’s enough staff to ensure prompt and steady service, as mentioned earlier, it’s not stellar. Upon arriving, we discovered our reservation wasn’t recorded. While discussing our meal, our server had wandering eyes, conveying indifference and impatience. Others, however, were more genuinely friendly.

And watch as sake becomes a bigger deal in Vancouver as it takes centre stage in Tojo’s sake lounge, a another Tojo first in the city.

– – –

TOJO’S RESTAURANT

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 4

Service: 3 1/2

Price: $$$

1133 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. (www.tojos.com) Open 7 days a week for dinner.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Galvanic charge to taste buds

A.R. Wodell
Sun

A touch of melancholy hangs over the beach in the depths of a West Coast winter, but even on a dark Saturday evening, White Rock’s Marine Drive restaurant strip invariably has its fair share of customers.

The Green Papaya, near the eastern edge of the action, bills itself as offering “a fusion of Vietnamese and West Coast cuisine” — an intriguing pairing that demands sampling.

Decor is not the establishment’s strong suit: Its unpretentious interior is more redolent of a faux Mediterranean or Mexican restaurant, and the kitchen, far removed from the entrance, denied us that welcoming puff of spicy steam that characterizes more traditional Vietnamese eateries.

Things looked up once we were handed our menus and had a chance to peruse chef Tony Tran’s promised blending of east and west. Though the multi-section menu offers pastas and steaks, it’s the selection of Vietnamese-accented tapas — from spring rolls to bruschetta on chimmichurry toasts and grilled greenback mussels with a tamarind barbeque sauce — that really get the fusion message across loud and clear.

There’s an entire page devoted to pho, offering several variations on the standard Indo-Chinese beef noodle soup, plus a guide to the recommended DIY garnishing technique.

From the tapas menu we elected to split an appetizer order of stuffed “betle” leaves (also known as betel), which arrived promptly, glistening blackly on skewers like postmodern lollipops. Leaves filled with minced beef had been drizzled in a thick balsamic reduction sauce, steamed and dusted with ground peanuts; we weren’t able to detect much taste or texture from the betle leaves themselves, but the combination was delicious with a pleasantly spicy aftertaste.

We ordered the lemon grass and coconut chicken breast and the tropical fruit steamed halibut as entrees. Both delivered a galvanic charge to the taste buds — suddenly we were ravenous. Presentation was contemporary and surprisingly formal, creatively stacked inside wide, white soup plates. Portions were generous, and every bite disappeared. The chicken dish created an appealing balance between the unctuous sweetness of coconut and the fresh tang of lemon grass, with a final hot and spicy kick; it was garnished with mango and papaya dice and leaves of raw baby spinach. The pan-Asian tropical fruit salsa and ginger gastrique was deliriously tart and sour, yet never to the point of overpowering either the perfectly cooked halibut or its delicate jasmine rice base speared with carrots and asparagus stalks.

Dessert seemed superfluous, but the mention of a melon sponge was too interesting to pass up. The flavour was delicate yet intense, enhanced by a splatter of bittersweet chocolate and a touch of fresh fruit.

The Green Papaya appears committed to finding its own way of doing things, somewhere between the casual tradition of family-style Asian eateries and the grander conventions of an upmarket bistro.

Tran is enthusiastic about bringing Vietnamese cuisine to White Rock, and hopes to make the Green Papaya not quite as casual as most traditional Vietnamese restaurants. He says his goal is introduce his patrons to new tastes and “to take Vietnamese food to a new level.”

As a local favourite offering friendly service, reasonable prices and experimental yet satisfying flavours, the Green Papaya has considerable potential. We hope to return to sample the pho menu or, when an afternoon walk on the beach seems a bit less bracing, such lunch specials as a papaya clubhouse and a panko-crusted halibut burger with wasabi mayonnaise.

A.R. Wodell is a Vancouver freelance writer and editor.

– – –

IN THE SUBURBS

The Green Papaya

100 – 15057 Marine Dr., White Rock

604-536-9811. Open daily 11 a.m to 10 p.m

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Downtown cafe has earned a loyal following for its welcoming service and deep, smooth coffee

Mia Stainsby
Sun

It’s not necessarily the coffee that jolts you into wakefulness here. It’s the staff. “Good morning!” rings out every few seconds as customers come in for their morning on-switch. With owner Mario Trejier, it’s more of a bass bellow. No matter how grumpy you are, you can’t help but buck up amid such cheeriness.

You don’t need the exact address on the street because you just follow the music, which spills onto the street from this narrow little coffee bar.

But more to the point, three cheers for the coffee here. You know, for a coffee-addled town, there’s not a lot of good coffee to be found. At Mario’s, you get lovely crema, even with a straight-ahead decaf Americano. The flavour is deep, smooth, just a hint of bitterness.

One of the reasons for the great coffee is Trejier uses more grounds than the average cuppa joe. The other is, he’s the barista. “For 12 years!” he says.

Mario’s passes another test that other places fail — bitterly — even when owner-operated. The service is so welcoming, they have ancient loyalties. Customers are welcomed by name, sometimes in unison by staff.

If his name has a familiar ring, it might be because of Trejier’s 15 minutes of fame, back in the early 1990s. He had a coffee bar in the long-gone Eatons at Pacific Centre. When they wouldn’t renew his lease, favouring a dumbed-down coffee chain, fans revolted en masse and media swooped in on the David and Goliath dust-up.

“My customers went ballistic,” he says. In the short-term, David lost; however, by the time Eatons went belly up, Mario’s was re-established and going strong where it still sits today.

Its proximity to the Four Seasons and Metropolitan hotels brings in some Hollywood types. Michael Keaton recently spilled some of his coffee and when a staffer went to clean up, the former Batman actor jumped in. “Pass me the cloth — I can do that. I used to serve coffee,” he said.

– – –

MARIO’S COFFEE EXPRESS

595 Howe St., 604-608-2804

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

The Main Street eatery is filled with people seeking good-deal meals at antiquated prices

Mia Stainsby
Sun

It’s like a Greyhound bus station crowd — a mix of pensioners, dads with little kids, young couples, middle-aged couples, a few hipsters. At dinner time, especially on weekends, the Windjammer restaurant has a full house.

The common denominator is people looking for a good-deal meal at rather antiquated prices, as in $7.95 for seafood agnolotti with tomato cream sauce; $6.50 for meat lasagne; $10 for lamb shank with three vegetables. A scan of tables shows fish and chips to be the kids’ and seniors’ favourite, and it’s good fish and chips to be sure.

“Three beers!” the dad of two little girls ordered. When they looked wide-eyed at him, he changed that to a beer and two pops.

“I’m going to eat Caesar salads all my life,” one cutie declared, munching through a plate of it with her sister. “Could we have some mo-wah?” she said at when every leaf was munched.

You could say the reason for the popularity is two of the owners have worked at Umberto Menghi’s Il Giardino as worker-be line cooks. You can’t help but pick up good cooking habits in a high-end kitchen catering to demanding palates.

So you’ll find the clam linguine is perfectly done with a light olive oil and clam juice sauce and fresh clams in shells. The dirt-cheap seafood agnolotti missed the mark, though, by sticking together. They should slip and slide over each other. A meat lasagne wasn’t thrilling but it was light and tasty.

The fish and chips are the stars of the show. A golden, crisp batter, fresh fish (cod, halibut or salmon), tidy fries, deep-fried at the right temperature in clean oil.

Entrees, though very economical ($10 for lamb shanks), are unexciting. Vegetables (usually three kinds on a plate) are lightly boiled or steamed. And you’d probably do best with the good-deal micro-brew pints at $4 or $13 a pitcher as the wine list isn’t enthralling.

My impatience bubbled over upon deciding on a take-out. “It’ll take 15 minutes,” we were told, but 30 minutes, 40 minutes, then 50 minutes crawled by before we got the food with no mention of the long waiting time. Luckily, the flat screen TV kept us occupied with a hockey game.

– – –

WINDJAMMER RESTAURANT

3079 Main St., 604-876-6446. Open for lunch and dinner.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby.

Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s Consistently one of the city’s best. Almost 100 per cent organic foods. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$

Bridges For fine dining, head upstairs, and for casual, try the downstairs bistro. 1696 Duranleau, 604-687-4400. $$/$$$

Brix Large tapas selection, 60 wines by the glass. 1138 Homer St., 604-915-9463. $$/$$$

Crave Divine comfort food with elegant touches. 3941 Main St., 604-872-3663. $$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Diva at the Met High-end food, gorgeously presented. Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe St., 604-602-7788. $$$

Feenie’s Comfort food with a modern tweak and quality ingredients. 2563 West Broadway, 604-739-7115. $/$$

Fiction Young crowd, great tapas dishes. 3162 West Broadway, 604-736-7576. $$

Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar Hip, happening destination. Creative chef. 1079 Mainland St., 604-602-0835. $$

Lumiere Tasting Bar The casual sidekick to famous sibling, Lumiere, next door. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$/$$$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill A Vancouver moment by English Bay. Regional food. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

Rare An impressive, unique menu. There’s passion here. 1355 Hornby St., 604-669-1256. $$$

Salt Tasting Room Inspired charcuterie style food with wine pairings. Edgey surrounding. 45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912. $$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$

Il Giardino “New Italian” food, light with exotic elements. Big on game. 1382 Hornby St., 604-669-2422. $$$.

Incendio Great wood-oven pizzas, robust lineup of pastas. 103 Columbia St., 604-688-8694. $/$$

Incendio West Same as above, but in modern digs. 2118 Burrard St., 604-736-2220. $/$$

La Terrazza Knock-out looks, intelligent and friendly staff, traditional Italian food. 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449. $$$

Quattro on Fourth An Italian restaurant with flair. 2611 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4444. $$/$$$

CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Imperial Seafood Fine Cantonese food, (expensive) in the lovely Marine Building. 355 Burrard St., 604-688-8191. $$$

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Pink Pearl It’s been around forever and is still a going concern. 1132 East Hastings St., 604-253-4316. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

JAPANESE

Ajisai Sushi Bar Small neighbourhood spot with sushi that sings. 2081West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428. $

Bistro Sakana Exciting Japanese food with French and Italian curve balls. 1123 Mainland St., 604-633-1280. $$

Black Tuna Tapas style Japanese dishes, sushi, lovingly cooked. 202 — 1184 Denman St., 604-408-7557. $$

Chopstick Cafe/Shiru-Bay Great atmosphere, intriguing izakaya food, budget prices. 1193 Hamilton St., 604-408-9315. $$

Gyoza King Gyozas reign supreme. Open late. 1508 Robson St., 604-669-8278. $

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272. $/$$

Japone Wonderfully inventive dishes on the ‘chef’s specials’ menu. 8269 Oak St., 604-263-6708. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 1133 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Toshi Sushi Tiny place always packed for the fresh, tasty sushi. 181 East 16th Ave., 604-847-5173. $/$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

Zest Japanese Cuisine Grazing style modern Japanese menu in cool modern room. 2775 West 16th Ave., 604-731-9378. $$

FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Cafe de Paris Traditional French bistro. Lots of character. 751 Denman St., 604-687-1418. $$

Cassis Bistro Low budget but mod interior. Delicious traditional French bistro fare. Good value. 420 West Pender St., 604-605-0420. $$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Elixir French brasserie in Yaletown; bistro food, haute quality. 322 Davie St., 604-642-0557. $$/$$$

Le Crocodile Refined French with incredible wines to boot. 909 Burrard St., 604-669-4298. $$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

Mistral Authentic Provencal food cooked by former Michelin chef. 2585 West Broadway, 604-733-0046. $$

Pastis French bistro with a lightness of being. 2153 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-5020. $$/$$$

Salade de Fruits Very good value French country bistro. 1551 West Seventh, 604-714-5987. $$

GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

Bouzyos Greek Taverna Lively atmosphere, better than average Greek food. 1815 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2533. $$

Kalamata Greek Taverna A popular souvlaki stop dressed in the familiar white and blue. 388 West Broadway, 604-872-7050. $$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Maria’s Taverna Friendly service. 2324 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-4722. $$

Simpatico Thirty-plus years old; traditional Greek restaurant with the addition of good pizzas. 2222 West Fourth Ave., 604733-6824. $/$$

Stepho’s Nightly lineups because of low prices. 1124 Davie St., 604-683-2555. $

INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Chutney Villa South Indian cuisine, with dosas, idli and vadas. 147 East Broadway, 604-872-2228. $/$$

Clove An alternative Indian restaurant, funky, cheap. 2054 Commercial Dr., 604-255-5550. $

Clove Upscale sibling to Clove on Commercial. Modern Indian cuisine. 735 Denman St., 604-669-2421. $/$$

Indica Indian dishes with western tweaks. Charming. 1795 Pendrell St., 604-609-3530. $

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Samosa Garden Smooth sauces, lovely food, good service. 3502 Kingsway, 604-437-3502. $$

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

Yogi’s Hip, contemporary Indian food, perfect for The Drive. 1408 Commercial Dr., 604-251-9644. $

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Banana Leaf Homestyle Malaysian food. 820 West Broadway, 604-731-6333 and 1096 Denman St., 604-683-3333. $$

Kedah House Halal Restaurant Malaysian food with a light, nimble touch. 1654 S.E. Marine Dr., 604-325-9771. $

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Pondok Authentic Indonesian dishes, freshly cooked. 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$

Salathai Thai Dishes are freshly prepared and consistent. 3364 Cambie St., 604-875-6999. $$

Sanafir Pan-Asian and Mediterranean flavours in a trio of dishes. Innovative. 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049. $$/$$$

Sawasdee Thai Gracious service keeps the regulars hooked. 4250 Main St., 604-876-4030. $$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Coast Restaurant Yaletown chic, shares kinship with Glowbal Grill and Satay. Seafood emphasis. 1157 Hamilton St., 604-685-5010. $$$

Fish Cafe Unpretentious, straight-ahead seafood at bargain prices. 2053 West 41st Ave., 604-267-3474. $

Fish House in Stanley Park Bold and imaginative seafood dishes by the creative Karen Barnaby. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., 604-681-7275. $$$

Go Fish Fab outdoor fish shack, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House Fresh shucked oysters, cedar plank salmon, grilled chops. High energy. 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940. $$$

Rodney’s Oyster House Specializes in very fresh shellfish and oysters. 1228 Hamilton St., 604-609-0080. $$

AMERICAN

Memphis Blues Barbecue House Slow-cooked, southern style BBQ. Delish. 1465 West Broadway, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599. $

VEGETARIAN

Bo Kong Buddhist-based menu using very fresh ingredients. Mild flavours. 3068 Main St., 604-876-3088. $

The Naam Wide variety of vegetarian fare. Quiet patio in summer. 2724 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-7151. $

LATIN AMERICA

Banano’s No-frills Venezuelan/ Colombian cafe. Delicious arepas. 1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228. $

Baru Casually chic South American food for discerning diners. 2535 Alma St., 604-222-9171. $$

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Latin Quarter Mexican and Mediterranean tapas dishes as well as music in the evenings. 1305 Commercial Dr., 604-251-1144. $$

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

Mexico Rico A slice of Mexico. Very inexpensive, authentic Mexican cafe. 309 West Pender St., 604-688-7426. $

Rinconcito Salvadorean Restaurant Fresh Salvadorean cuisine. Lovely pupusas. 2062 Commercial Dr., 604-879-2600. $

Tio Pepe’s Yucatan food, nicely prepared. 1134 Commercial Dr., 604-254-8999. $

MEDITERRANEAN

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Bravo Cucina Traditional Italian, cooked with care. 1209 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-985-3006. $$

Brown’s Restaurant and Bar Casually chic and bustling bistro with burgers, rice bowls, entrees. 1764 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-929-5401. $/$$

Dundarave Fish Market Charming spot; fabulous seafood from the adjoining fish market. 2419 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-1155. $

Gusto Di Quattro Cosy, warm. Italian food. 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-924-4444 . $$/$$$

Higashi West Japanese tapas. Views of Burrard Inlet. 143 Chadwick Court, Lonsdale Quay, North Van, 604-904-3755. $$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

La Regalade Cote Mer Shares the same genes at La Regalade in Ambleside but with emphasis on seafood. 5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-921-9701. $$$

Mythos Whitewashed walls, azure blue trim say “sun-drenched Greece.” 1811 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-984-7411. $$

Nobu Tiny, with just enough room to make the lovely sushi. 3197 Edgemont Blvd.,North Van., 604-988-4553. $

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

Palki An Indian restaurant with a good grip on the spices. Fresh ingredients. 116 East 15th St., North Van, 604-986-7555. $$

Saltaire Gorgeous roof patio. Good value West Coast food. 2nd floor – 235 15th St., West Van, 604-913-8439. $$

Zen Japanese Restaurant Creative kitchen, quality ingredients. Good sake list. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. $$/$$$

BURNABY/NEW WEST

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

Boat House Conservative seafood menu. Restaurant overlooks Fraser River. 900 Quayside, New Westminster, 604-525-3474. $$

Bombay Bhel Lovely Indian food. Menu features Mumbai-style snacks. 4266 Hastings St., 604-299-2500. $/$$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Orange Room Casual tapas. International flavours. 620 Sixth Ave., New Westminster, 604-520-6464. $$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

COQUITLAM, POCO, PORT MOODY

Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill Casual family retaurant. 550 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-939-3077

Kirin Seafood Restaurant Chinese food for the discriminating palate. 2nd floor, Henderson Place, 1163 Pinetree Way, Coquitlam, 604-944-8833. $$/$$$

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

RICHMOND

Also Lounge and Restaurant A blend of Italian/French with Asian accents and high-end presentation. 4200 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-303-9906. $$

Big River Brewing Co. Pub, serving casual food. 14200 Entertainment Blvd., Richmond, 604-271-2739. $/$$

Bo Kong Restaurant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. No alcohol. 8100 Ackroyd Rd., Richmond, 604-278-1992. $

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Globe at YVR Impressive food, sleek contemporary decor with view of U.S. arrivals terminal. Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver Airport, Richmond, 604-248-3281. $$$

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Noodles and delicious pot stickers, panfried or steamed. 4600 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-273-0871. $

Quilon Restaurant Southern Indian cuisine with notably delicious dosas. 6030 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-303-0011. $$

Shanghai River Shanghai style cuisine. Dumplings and noodles made in open kitchen. 7831 Westminster Highway, 604-233-8885. $$

Shiang Garden Part of a successful Taiwanese restaurant chain. Impressive seafood. 2200 — 4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8858. $$

Sun Sui Wah Impressive way with seafood. 4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8208. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Big Ridge Brewing Co. A Mark James restaurant and brew-pub. Families welcome. 15133 Hwy. 10, Surrey, 604-574-2739. $$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

Uli’s Restaurant Continental cuisine on busy restaurant strip. Water view. 15021 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-9373. $$

FRASER VALLEY

Bacchus Bistro At Domain de Chaberton Estate Winery. Limited hours. Mediterranean food. 1064 — 216th St., Langley. 604-530-9694. $$

Bravo Bistro Swish little bistro, run by former Delilah’s restaurant veterans. 46224 Yale Rd., Chilliwack. 1-604-792-7721. $$

The Seasonal Experience Adrian Beaty runs an ambitious kitchen with a Throw Away the menu option. 20226 Fraser Highway, Langley, 604-514-1311. $$

SQUAMISH/WHISTLER

Apres Quiet and intimate. Refined regional cuisine. 4338 Main St., Whistler, 604-935-0220. $$$

Araxi Restaurant & Bar Handsome Tuscan looks, regional cuisine. Outstanding wine list. 4222 Village Square, Whistler, 604-932-4540.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Lucky’s lost some of the warmth but food’s still tasty

Mark Laba
Province

LUCKY DINER

Where: 1269 Hamilton St., Vancouver

Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 604-662-8048

Drinks: Fully licensed

Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri., 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Sat., 10 a.m.-midnight; Sun., 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

– – –

I knew a guy named Lucky, so nicknamed because he won a whopping sum of money on the lottery. It bought him a collector car, a new girlfriend 20 years his junior, along with new breasts for her, and numerous trips to the Bahamas where he could show off the fruits of his newfound wealth in all their fleshly glory. If he could’ve driven his car on the beach his life would’ve been complete.

And although Lucky hit it big, he remained — as he was the first time I met him — an habitue of diners and their greasy-spoon offerings. So I wondered how he would relate to this place, which could’ve been his namesake.

This place was once simply called Diner and owned by Heather Clark who was recently bought out by Sean Heather of the Irish Heather, Salt and Shebeen Whiskey House fame. In its original incarnation I was very much enamoured of the food, so it was with great relish that I hit this new venture to see what Mr. Heather, a restaurateur of great business savvy and a “look what I can do” culinary mentality, had done to the joint.

The digs look pretty much the same with high ceilings, retro lighting, one huge mirrored wall, and booth and chair seating, but somehow the atmosphere seems a little colder than it did before. Maybe it’s the absence of the homebaked cakes and pies you used to see sitting out on the front counter of the open kitchen.

I had to have the meat loaf ($13) because for me it’s the measure of all things diner-related and once I read that it was wrapped with belly bacon I was in for a penny, in for a pound. Served up with buttermilk mashed ‘taters and some green beans, this is a dense critter and, though not dry, lacking a moisture content that I associate with home comfort food and arterial coagulations. Somehow it didn’t hit the old cerebral cortex with that overwhelming sense that mama’s home.

But the Lucky Burger ($11) is very good, featuring a half-pound of organic beef from the Blue Goose Cattle Company, a family-run ranch in the South Cariboo, and you can gussy it up with bacon, three-year-old cheddar and a mushroom ragout. It’s served with Kennebec fries — the Kennebec potato has been described as a uniform, smooth tuber, kind of like Mr. Potato Head if he’d gone to Harvard. These handcut beauties are very tasty and the homemade spiced ketchup was OK but a hint of cinnamon threw me off a bit.

Peaches and I also dug into the grilled brie and roasted tomato sandwich with a side soup-of-the-day of tomato and thyme ($10). Very pleasing and the tomatoes had the ripe zing of Mother Nature after a day at the gym.

The Roasted & Confit’d Maple Hill Farm Chicken & Mushroom Pot Pie at the next table looked as impressive as its name with its mushroom-cloud shaped crust, as did the Reuben sandwich, and some folk I know have raved about the 28-day-aged ribeye steak with onion rings. For dessert the pecan, maple and bourbon pie is a nice treat.

On that note, if you want to play Dean Martin at the diner, try the bourbon milkshake.

– – –

THE BOTTOM LINE

Andy of Mayberry gets a makeover and moves to the big city.

Grade: Food: B; Service: B; Atmosphere: B

© The Vancouver Province 2007

 

Deft handling of fresh food provides the perfect touch to the intermarriage of many dishes

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Normally I get frosty at the mention of “franchise” and “chain restaurant,” especially with a name like Prima Taste.

But forget all that. Yes, there’s a cookie cutter feel to the decor, but I walked out very happy on both my visits, with zippers and buttons working extra hard.

Prima Taste serves Singapore cuisine and you wouldn’t be totally wrong mistaking it for Malaysian cuisine. (Malaysia is a five-minute drive across a causeway.)

Owner Kiam Ang says Singapore, being a migrant country, is a melting pot of cuisines. There’s been a lot of intermarriages so dishes have evolved accordingly.

Prima’s food is fresh and shows deft handling of some very aggressive flavourings. The Hainanese Chicken Rice must be tried. It looks a little anemic upon arrival but dig in and oh my god, do they know chicken, very tender and gently flavoured with herbs, including pandan leaf. The rice that accompanies it (which can be ordered separately) is made with the broth and it’s fragrant and delicious.

Another must-try is the mango salad, a mountain of julienned mango and fennel slices. Its refreshing taste is a perfect foil for some of the heavier dishes, like Beef Randang or the satays, and especially, the yummy but heavily sauced Singapore Chili Crab. I would advise you to wear chili sauce-resistant clothing for this.

“If you go to Singapore and you don’t eat chili crab, it’s like you’ve never been. Singaporeans like to eat crab. A lot of places specialize in it,” Ang says.

Eating chili crab is kind of like mud wrestling — it’s slathered in chili sauce and you poise both hands above the plate and dive in, cracking the shell for the elusive meat. New York City and London honour the dish with annual Chili Crab Fests. If you hate getting icky, you might prefer the Pepper Crab which isn’t as sauce-luscious.

The laksa was okay by me, the coconut broth echoing the chicken and prawns in the soup. Ang says he imports the best dried shrimp he can get his hands on to enrich the broth.

I appreciated the variety of vegetables on the menu — green beans, eggplant, asparagus, kailan, broccoli and seasonal vegetables. You get a heaping plate sauteed in your choice of four sauces.

The room is shiny and new with dramatic black and white prints of Singapore. There are enough servers to provide thoughtful, friendly service and when pressed to explain dishes, they came through, explaining what sweetener was added to the Cheng Tng dessert — a sweet soup of dried fruits, lotus seeds, gingko nuts and white fungus. It’s palm syrup, she said.

Desserts can be “exotic” but I found there are a couple that are pretty close cousins to tapioca pudding and rice pudding.

You’ll find a modest list of wines, aimed at handling spicy foods.

– – –

PRIMA TASTE

Over-all: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 3 1/2

Service: 3 1/2

Price: $/$$

570 Robson St. Open 7 days a week, lunch and dinner.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

Family establishment serves affordable food, free of pretension, although the quality of the meals is sometimes lacking

Tara Lee
Sun

Lhy Thai may not be the most elegant of establishments, nor the most innovative, but this veteran restaurant meets a need in Burnaby for serving speedy food at a good price.

My friend and I popped in for a bite to eat while en route to a movie. The first thing we noticed was Lhy Thai’s modest interior: tables sandwiched together, frigid temperatures and framed photographs of Thai royalty haphazardly hung on the walls. Our server unceremoniously wiped off a table, unrolled placemats with cutlery, and signalled for us to sit.

Owner Paul Eakkachaichanvet and his wife, Phailin, opened this family establishment in 1994 after immigrating from Bangkok in 1991, where they ran a food kiosk. Once in Canada, Phailin worked as a cook at Sawasdee Thai Restaurant before the couple decided to open a restaurant in this quiet corner of Burnaby. But times were tough at first, Paul recalls.

“Thirteen years ago, there weren’t many office people so we didn’t make the restaurant very fancy,” he says. “I kept my fingers crossed; ‘Can I survive in this area?'”

However, the couple stuck it out and word soon spread.

We caught on to the spirit of the restaurant, and were soon inundated with dishes. The vermicelli and cabbage filled spring rolls ($5.95) crackled in our mouths and paired well with plum dipping sauce. The arrival of stuffed boneless chicken wings ($6.50) — apparently a house favourite — gathered jealous glances around the room. Filled with spiced minced chicken in a crispy shell, they were the highlight of the meal.

However, our other two dishes faltered from lacklustre execution, demonstrating that speed can sometimes detract from culinary attentiveness. The green curry beef ($8.50) sent wafts of anticipation our way, but was watery and lacked flavour. We spooned it over jasmine rice and wished that we had opted for a spicier dish.

A plate of Pad Thai with prawns emerged limp and sodden with chili tomato sauce.

And yet, service moved with an efficiency that kept the packed room buzzing with constantly arriving and departing diners. Lhy Thai is not a place for soulful conversation, but instead, expect affordable food, free of pretension, where small groups can speedily flex their appetites.

– – –

AT A GLANCE

Lhy Thai Restaurant

7357 Edmonds St. Burnaby

604-526-8085

Open for lunch Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner

Monday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007