Steveston restaurant opened to serve Malaysian tastes

Alfie Lau
Sun

Having never been to Malaysia and only sampled its cuisine once in my life, I had few expectations when one of my closest friends and his wife told me about the Kari House Restaurant in Steveston.

“Think Thai food that’s just a bit less spicy,” friends said, encouragingly.

And that’s exactly what Sandy Chong, who opened the cosy diner in May 2004, was trying to accomplish.

“We live in the neighbourhood and there was no Malaysian food anywhere,” said the Chinese-Malaysian Chong. “What you’ll find here is food that doesn’t burn your tongue. What we’re doing is spicy with a little bit of sweetness.”

On a frightful late autumn night, we arrived at the Kari House, eager for some warming spices.

For appetizers, we went with the marinated Malaysian chicken satay, the deep-fried wonton and a large serving of hot and sour soup.

“The soup is one of my favourite dishes here,” my friend’s wife said. “You’ll love it.”

When the tofu, egg and bamboo shoot-laden soup came, we couldn’t agree with her more. The spicy kick provided just enough oomph to keep us warm while not filling us up unnecessarily.

The chicken satay, dipped in a peanut sauce, was also delectable. I also couldn’t get enough of the wonton, which came out surprisingly free of oil — hard to accomplish with any deep-fried dish. Chong said the satay is also one of her favourite dishes, as her father’s special satay recipe is a secret she’s unwilling to give up.

My friend spent many minutes perusing the menu of 70 dishes but he always kept coming back to number 17: the boneless chicken with cashew nuts and chili sauce.

“You really should try something different,” his wife chided him gently, as she went with the Malaysian beef and vegetables stir-fried in a sambal sauce.

I was sorely tempted to try one of the restaurant’s seafood dishes until I saw the specials menu, which included barbecue duck served with asparagus, pineapple, eggplant and coconut milk. Decision made.

When our mains came, the ample portion sizes had us doubting we could finish everything. But like the tortoise, slow and steady wins the race.

We had the coconut-steamed rice to go with our meals and while the chicken and beef dishes were noticeably spicier than my duck, we didn’t have to ask for cold water.

With the chicken cooked just right to keep its tender texture, I could see why my friend always orders this dish. The sambal sauce is a sensational blend of sweet and spicy.

As for my duck, I didn’t know what to expect because duck, with its oily constituency, is often hard to cook. Add in the fact that ducks are bonier than chicken and it’s a tough dish for both the chef and the diner.

No such problem at the Kari House; the duck was sinfully good, the oils working well with the eggplant and asparagus. The pineapples offered just enough respite from the mild spiciness and the coconut milk gave it a most refreshing aroma.

Chong said they have a lot of repeat business, with many ordering the same dishes each time. But that hasn’t stopped her from experimenting with some new sauces, such as an assam kuah curry, which is done without coconut milk. She has also created a baba curry, which is hotter for those who want a definitive spicy kick.

Perhaps the best thing about our meal at the Kari House was we finished everything but didn’t feel uncomfortably stuffed. We decided to order dessert: The two guys in our party ordered mango ice cream, while our female counterparts went with green tea flavour.

The desserts came quickly and was nicely topped off with a dollop of whipped cream. The Kari House servers were attentive without being overbearing, always seeming to notice when a dish was done and could be cleared from the table.

Now that I know what Malaysian cuisine is all about, I’m pretty sure I’ll be back for more very soon.

Alfie Lau is a freelance writer.

– – –

THE KARI HOUSE

130 – 3900 Bayview St., Steveston, 604-275-5274, www.karihouse.com.

Open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

For breakfast, coffee, or lunch with wine, Italian cafe offers comfort food in a homey setting

Mia Stainsby
Sun

It’s my job to love ’em and leave ’em. Many restaurants see me a couple of times within quick succession and then poof! I’m gone, never to return.

Epicurean Deli is not such a place. I like its intimacy, its modern Italianness, the swish white Carrera marble tabletops and the insular neighbourhood feel — people catching up on newspapers, sitting at computers, chatting with friends or feeling quite at home on their own, throwing back an espresso and pastry.

The Cocco family (father Dario, mom Renata and son Christian) who run the place are always there, extending a family feel. Renata cooks what she’s always cooked for the family.

You can just have a cappuccino and pastry and chill out. Or sip a glass of wine in the middle of the afternoon. (Yes, they’re licensed.)

A couple of years ago, they added breakfast to their largely lunch or early dinner deli-style menu. That’s breakfast (or brunch) in the form of frittata, prawns benedict on toasted foccacia, eggs and pancetta or the Earthy Breakfast of poached eggs, sausages, roasted potatoes, eggplant, pancetta with onion sauce.

For lunch or early dinner, you turn to the various grilled panini or family-style Italian meals from the deli counter — pastas like sacchetti (“sacks” with feta and spinach), carbonara, ricotta and spinach ravioli with butter and sage sauce; polpetta (meatballs), lasagne, pappardelle and soups.

As well as the deli, there’s another neighbourhood Italian restaurant upstairs — Epic, run by Christian, is more restaurant than deli and features Roman and Tuscan cuisine.

– – –

EPICUREAN DELI

1898 West First Ave., 604-731-5370. Open for meals from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday; 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday and Monday. Coffee bar only is open to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

If you like barbecued meats cooked Memphis style, slathered with a sweet tomato sauce and smoked many hours in a pit, you won’t be disappointed

Mia Stainsby
Sun

When Memphis Blues Barbecue House first opened on West Broadway in 2002, I was a devotee and would leave with barbecue sauce smeared on my face, hands and clothing.

“Fred Flintstone-style dishes, piled with ribs, pulled pork, sliced brisket, smoked sausage and chicken. The boys who run this barbecue joint know the art of succulent seduction,” I wrote. “The barbecued meats, infused with cherry, apple and maple wood smoke, really are delicious.”

Four years and two more restaurants later, Memphis Blues is still a boisterous, busy place, appealing to young and old; skinny and fat; slobs and snobs.

After Broadway, another opened on Commercial, and my colleague Linda Bates reviewed it and liked the meats, if not the struggling service. I visited the latest family member in North Vancouver and left wondering if it was an adopted sibling.

The barbecued ribs were big, messy, tender and thoroughly flavourful but the non-barbecued dishes were seriously underwhelming or inedible. In the Oyster Po’ Boy, oysters were encased in a hard tack shell of cornmeal and the bun turned mushy from moisture. A plate of mixed greens looked like pond weed, with absolutely no crispness, lots of wetness. The cornbread was dry and hard.

I ordered a peach pie, remembering a wonderful peach cobbler from my 2002 visit, but alas, it was actually an inedible pie, with a few fingers of canned peach immersed in a cornstarchy medium. The crust was soft without a trace of flakiness.

Still, the place was packed and jumping thanks to the slow-cooked meats coming out of the barbecue pit. The coleslaw and beans that accompany most dishes were fine.

I went to the West Broadway location for comparison and the salad was crispier, the oysters bigger and fresher tasting and the cornbread wasn’t as withered.

But if you like barbecued meats cooked Memphis style, slathered with a sweet tomato sauce and smoked many hours in the pit, you won’t be disappointed. It’s even cooked in a barbecue pit made in Missouri and can cook up to 500 pounds of meat at a time. They’ve got ribs, sliced brisket, pulled pork, Cornish game hen, smoked sausage and if you want, they’ve got platters, heaped full of meat for an event. Think Super Bowl. Think Canucks games. Think guy food.

The Memphis Feast, $32.95, comes fully loaded with all the meats; the Elvis Platter holds the same, except more of everything ($64); and the Priscilla has even more plus oysters, shrimp and catfish and feeds up to 12 guys a-bonding. Next to Father’s Day, the Super Bowl is the busiest day at Memphis Blues, apparently.

Check out the great bourbon list, including a 20-year-old Pappy Van Winkle and 12-year-old W.L. Weller and enjoy the great blues music.

– – –

MEMPHIS BLUES BBQ

Overall: 3

Food: 3

Ambience: 3

Service: 3

Price $

1629 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver, 604-929-3699. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Thursday; noon to midnight, Saturday; noon to 10 p.m.,

Sunday. No reservations.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

The chef at Chada Thai Fine Cuisine wouldn’t want to jeopardize the quality of his food

Juanita Ng,
Sun

For chef Brian Marchesi, it’s all about quality control. The flavours in the Thai dishes he serves — that’s paramount. Hence, the no-takeout rule during suppertime. When Thai food gets cold, the texture changes. And really, there’s no point in serving something like that.

Then there’s the presentation. Why bother spending six to eight hours creating a Pad Thai sauce just to slap the noodles on a plate?

And when Marchesi is pressed into thinking about the future, not surprisingly, it’s a vision that’s shaped by the same guidelines. Go slow. Be sure. Expand when the time is right, and not before. Because otherwise, how can one control the dining experience?

It’s a formula that’s working in spades. Open for just seven months, Chada Thai Fine Cuisine in Coquitlam already has its regulars whom Marchesi can address with familiarity during his forays into the dining area to chat with customers.

But the success isn’t surprising, considering Marchesi’s background. At 30, Marchesi has been cooking for most of his life; first at his grandmother’s restaurant in Thailand, then with his aunt at her restaurant in Sweden; and most recently as a breakfast and lunch cook at the Four Seasons in Vancouver.

“Right now, the business is going so well — much better than I expected,” says Marchesi, whose father owns the restaurant. “It’s phenomenal.”

For the newbie, some tips for dining at Chada Thai:

Tip No. 1: When they say “hot,” they mean the kind of hot that makes you flail blindly for water. And watch out, because it sneaks up on you insidiously and cruelly. Unless you’re feeling awfully brave, order your dishes mild or medium.

Tip No. 2: Dine here on a weeknight. Alternatively, reserve a table on weekends. With its high ceilings, ornate artwork and rich colours, Chada Thai is charming and inviting. It’s also tiny, with a mere 32 seats. Situated in a bustling strip mall that includes Save-On Foods, Chapters and a slew of other businesses, it’s not surprising that on the Saturday we were there, at least 10 walk-up parties failed to get a table.

Tip No. 3: Try the Chicken Gang Dang with eggplant, bamboo shoots and peppers in a red curry sauce — its creamy blend of spices will make you a Chada Thai convert as well.

For that matter, try the Pad Thai, delicious pan-fried rice noodles with chicken and prawns in a tamarind sauce; or the Chada Thai Rolls, deep-fried wraps with a mix of carrots, vermicelli and cabbage. Dishes are priced at a flat rate: Appetizers are $8.99, entrees are $16.99 and chef’s specials are $19.99. Traditional Thai soups and salads, a popular choice with many diners, are $12.99 each. As previously mentioned, the presentation for all of the dishes is spectacular. “In the 21st century, people eat their food with their eyes first,” Marchesi says.

Tip No. 4: The jury’s still out on the desserts. The night we were there, just one of the four desserts that was on the menu was available — the F.B.I. or Fried Banana with Ice Cream. The batter was over-fried, making it tough to eat. A second dessert, a mango mousse that was not on the menu, was also a miss.

Tip No. 5: Ask your servers if you have any questions. They’re friendly and efficient, and more than willing to explain the dishes as well as recommend a few of the more popular ones.

– –

CHADA THAI FINE CUISINE

107 – 2991 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-464-5300, www.chadathai.ca

Open daily for lunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

© The Vancouver Sun 2007

 

A combination fish shop and bistro sells delicious seafood caught by methods designed to sustain stocks

Mia Stainsby
Sun

December is a sneak thief, rifling our wallets and leaving us change. Well, you know what? Go nuts. Spend that change. A good place is at Finest At Sea, a seafood shop/bistro/deli for a casual but quality feed.

First of all, the seafood comes under Ocean Wise, the do-good program to serve sustainable seafood. And secondly, the shop has its own fishing fleet, with 11 boats that use traps and hooks (no dragging, no nets). In fact, the company sells seafood to 40 other restaurants in town, including ones which are fanatic about freshness, like Tojo’s and West.

One of the proponents behind this west-side venture (just over a month old) is Bruno Born, a Vancouver restaurant veteran who’s operated restaurants since the early 1980s. Under his belt: The Chef And The Carpenter, Bruno’s, Coq d’Or, Zeppos, Indigo (at Wall Centre), and most recently, Sausi’s, which closed over a year ago.

He and his brother-in-law Ian Angus run the storefront while another partner, Bob Fraumeni, oversees the fishing end of things.

Finest At Sea isn’t exactly a looker; it’s a fish shop with a few tables and off to one side, an open kitchen and a menu board. There’s a kink in ordering that seemed to confuse many of us. You go to the back of the store, put in your order, go back to the front and wait for the order to come up. A group of four guests sat at a table waiting for service before finally realizing what that line-up at the back was about, then grumbled about having to wait yet again.

But I was very happy with the food. The bistro menu reflects what’s in season. The clam chowder is a gridlock of Queen Charlotte razor clams and should not be missed; the seafood bisque starts with stock made from roasted halibut bones and pureed vegetables thicken the soup.

I don’t do fish and chips unless there’s a delicious pay-off for the gazillion calories. Here, there is. The sablefish, bundled inside the crisp, bronzed batter was lovely. The chips aren’t fabulous, but they are tasty. You can get salmon, halibut and ling cod fish and chips. Single fish portions are $6 to $10 and doubles are $9 to $15.

Soups are $4, small plates (crabcakes, mussels) are $10 and grilled fish dishes are about $13.

I sampled the crab cakes (generously crabby), a spice-rubbed sockeye salmon with Caesar salad and polenta crusted halibut (great quality but slightly overcooked). There’s no dessert menu and as yet, no wine to enhance the lovely fish. Dug-in carnivores won’t find any red meat here.

If you’re on the run, look to the deli case which has a lineup of take-home dishes — salads, cooked veggies, swiss chard terrine, and some seafood dishes.

At the back of the room, reality TV takes you aboard some their fishing vessels as they bring in tuna, halibut, sablefish and black cod — a little girl sat mesmerized watching, immune to her dad’s call to come join him for fish and chips.

– – –

FINEST AT SEA

Overall: Rating 3 1/2

Food: Rating 3 1/2

Ambience: Rating 3

Service: Rating 3

Price $

4675 Arbutus St., 604-266-1904.

Open 7 days a week, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; to 6 p.m. Sunday.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

The food at restaurant 62 in Abbotsford is about as tasty as it gets; the service shines too

Mia Thomas
Sun

‘Sip, sample, savour” is the motto of restaurant 62, which is establishing itself in the Fraser Valley fine dining scene.

The meals on a recent visit were fully deserving of the reputation this Abbotsford eatery is generating.

I settled on the sweet potato and poached pear soup with blue cheese and crushed walnuts. They had me at the pear, but the blue cheese and walnuts sealed the deal. It was perfect warmth and comfort for a blustery winter night; absolutely delicious and totally smooth, creamy without being too thick or rich.

My companion ordered Pailliote de Chevre, an aged goat’s cheese salad with roasted portabella mushroom, artichoke heart, marinated red peppers, and maple and sherry caramel.

It wasn’t a traditional salad of greens — the cheese was the main attraction in this dish, a thick slice served warm on thin toast. The other flavours combined for another soul-warming taste experience.

For the main dish, my companion ordered Fire-Grilled Chicken Gargenelli in a fresh basil cream sauce with roasted mushrooms and parmesan cheese.

We weren’t familiar with the pasta, but gargenelli turned out to be tubes, similar to penne in shape but smaller, thinner and cut at a different angle.

The “thinner” quality was what made the difference here, since both of us find penne too thick, but gargenelli was quite enjoyable with the sauce. The free-range chicken was tender and very nicely spiced.

I ordered the pan-seared mahi mahi filet, served on a crisp basmati rice cake with a citrus cream sauce. It turned out to be a dish that suited my personal preferences to a tee.

The fish was herbed just enough to flavour without overpowering its own delicate taste and cooked to a nice flakiness. The sauce was wonderfully tangy and the rice cake a creamy surprise inside the crunchy exterior.

The vegetables served alongside — zucchini, asparagus and green beans — were cooked to a slight tenderness but maintained some of their crispiness.

After a meal like that, we had to try the desserts.

Once again lured by one of my favourite fruits, the pineau des charentes cheesecake with an amaretti crust and poached pears was an easy choice. Served on swirls of raspberry coulis, it was deliciously creamy, with the touch of texture found in a good cheesecake.

My companion ordered the molten centre callebaut chocolate cake, served with espresso creme anglaise.

The warm explosion of sweetness that arrived — also presented on raspberry swirls — was essentially that delightful creation lava cake, but made with quality chocolate.

As a dining experience, restaurant 62 is a treat.

The decor is elegantly sophisticated yet comfortably relaxed. Good use is made of the space; it’s intimate without feeling crowded, with only 62 seats, giving the restaurant its name.

Service is friendly, fast and attentive, not overdone.

Eric Ferris opened the restaurant in Abbotsford’s Gateway Building after a number of years in the food industry that had ranged from Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn to the Metropolitan Hotel in Calgary, before he returned to his roots in the Valley.

He’s where he wants to be now, closer to the source of many of his ingredients where farm-gate shopping is a feasible option.

“We really try and purchase as much as we can locally,” Ferris said, adding it’s a work in progress since year-round produce is still limited.

– – –

RESTAURANT 62

106 – 2001 McCallum Rd., Abbotsford. Open for lunch Monday to Friday, from 11:30 a.m., and for dinner Monday to Saturday, from 5 p.m. Call 604-855-3545 or visit www.restaurant62.ca for more information.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

Angelina’s is a perfect little neighbourhood spot to while away time with a newspaper

Mia Stainsby
Sun

‘I wanted a cute little cafe. A place where I call all the shots,” says Angela Mitchener, who, yes indeed, owns a cute little cafe. And calls the shots.

Apropos at this heavenly time of year, it’s called Angelina’s, a stretchy version of her own name. The bright, cheerful place is a perfect little neighbourhood spot for the condo dwellers nearby, but I’m not sure all dwellers would know of the place, tucked away in the courtyard of a new development, insulated from the street and traffic. It’s a cozy spot for a lazy Sunday morning with newspapers or friends.

Mitchener has a breakfast and lunch menu every day and just recently, she started up a limited dinner menu that runs on Friday and Saturday evenings for $25 — a pretty good price.

Breakfasts include in-house baking, french toast, and scrambled eggs with English muffins. Lack of proper ventilation prevents the kitchen from cooking proteins stovetop so eggs are scrambled a la microwave. The vanilla pear ginger muffin is a hit, as is the oatmeal butterscotch cookies and blueberry crumble cake. For lunch, there are selections of panini, quiche, lasagne and soups.

For dinner, dishes have so far included roasted tomato tart, stuffed pork tenderloin, gouda fondu with apples, butternut squash cannelloni, and lemon cheesecake with lemon coulis. And because of the limited stovetop use, most dishes are cooked in the oven.

Mitchener has been in the biz for some 20 years in one form or other, including part owner of Zen Japanese restaurant in West Vancouver.

– – –

ANGELINA’S CAFE

210 — 150 West Esplanade. North Vancouver. 604-983-9094. Open seven days a week; set menu dinners on

Friday and Saturday.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s Consistently one of the city’s best. Almost 100 per cent organic foods. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$ Bridges For fine dining, head upstairs, and for casual, try the downstairs bistro. 1696 Duranleau, 604-687-4400. $$/$$$

Brix Large tapas selection, 60 wines by the glass. 1138 Homer St., 604-915-9463. $$/$$$

Crave Divine comfort food with elegant touches. 3941 Main St., 604-872-3663. $$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Feenie’s Comfort food with a modern tweak and quality ingredients. 2563 West Broadway, 604-739-7115. $/$$

Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar Hip, happening destination. Creative chef. 1079 Mainland St., 604-602-0835. $$

Lucy Mae Brown Intimate space, assertive dishes. 862 Richards St., 604-899-9199. $$

Lumiere Tasting Bar The casual sidekick to famous sibling, Lumiere, next door. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$/$$$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill A Vancouver moment by English Bay. Regional food. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

Rare An impressive, unique menu. There’s passion here. 1355 Hornby St., 604-669-1256. $$$

Salt Tasting Room Inspired charcuterie style food with wine pairings. Edgey surrounding. 45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912. $$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$ Quattro on Fourth An Italian restaurant with flair. 2611 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4444. $$/$$$

CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Pink Pearl It’s been around forever and is still a going concern. 1132 East Hastings St., 604-253-4316. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

JAPANESE

Bistro Sakana Exciting Japanese food with French and Italian curve balls. 1123 Mainland St., 604-633-1280. $$

Chopstick Cafe/Shiru-Bay Great atmosphere, intriguing izakaya food, budget prices. 1193 Hamilton St., 604-408-9315. $$

Gyoza King Gyozas reign supreme. Open late. 1508 Robson St., 604-669-8278. $

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272. $/$$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 202 — 777 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

Zest Japanese Cuisine Grazing style modern Japanese menu in cool modern room. 2775 West 16th Ave., 604-731-9378. $$

FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Cassis Bistro Low budget but mod interior. Delicious traditional French bistro fare. Good value. 420 West Pender St., 604-605-0420. $$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Elixir French brasserie in Yaletown; bistro food, haute quality. 322 Davie St., 604-642-0557. $$/$$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

Mistral Authentic Provencal food cooked by former Michelin chef. 2585 West Broadway, 604-733-0046. $$

Pastis French bistro with a lightness of being. 2153 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-5020. $$/$$$

Salade de Fruits Very good value French country bistro. 1551 West Seventh, 604-714-5987. $$

GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Stepho’s Nightly lineups because of low prices. 1124 Davie St., 604-683-2555. $

INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Banana Leaf Homestyle Malaysian food. 820 West Broadway, 604-731-6333 and 1096 Denman St., 604-683-3333. $$

Monsoon An “East-West” brasserie with tropical Asian dishes, loads of atmosphere. 2526 Main St., 604-879-4001. $$

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Sanafir Pan-Asian and Mediterranean flavours in a trio of dishes. Innovative. 1026 Granville St., 604-678-1049. $$/$$$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Cannery Seafood Fine dining in rustic nautical decor on working waterfront. 2205 Commissioner St., 604-254-9606 $$$

Fish House in Stanley Park Bold and imaginative seafood dishes by the creative Karen Barnaby. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., 604-681-7275. $$$

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House Fresh shucked oysters, cedar plank salmon, grilled chops. High energy. 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940. $$$

VEGETARIAN

The Naam Wide variety of vegetarian fare. Quiet patio in summer. 2724 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-7151. $

LATIN AMERICA

Century Restaurant and Bar Modern Latin food, the best in town. Great space. 432 Richards St., 604-687-1280. $$/$$$

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Gusto Di Quattro Cosy, warm. Italian food. 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-924-4444 . $$/$$$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

La Regalade Cote Mer Shares the same genes at La Regalade in Ambleside but with emphasis on seafood. 5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-921-9701. $$$

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

Saltaire Gorgeous roof patio. Good value West Coast food. 2nd floor – 235 15th St., West Van, 604-913-8439. $$

Zen Japanese Restaurant Creative kitchen, quality ingredients. Good sake list. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. $$/$$$

BURNABY/NEW WESTMINSTER

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

Taverna Greka Greek cuisine. View of Fraser River. 326 Columbia, New Westminster, 604-526-6651. $$

Vassili Souvlaki Greek Taverna Traditional Greek foods with no reticence when it comes to portions. 6558 Kingsway, Burnaby, 604-434-0626. $$

COQUITLAM, POCO, PORT MOODY

Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill Casual family retaurant. 550 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-939-3077

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

RICHMOND

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Globe at YVR Impressive food, sleek contemporary decor with view of U.S. arrivals terminal. Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver Airport, Richmond, 604-248-3281. $$$

Shanghai River Shanghai style cuisine. Dumplings and noodles made in open kitchen. 7831 Westminster Highway, 604-233-8885. $$

Shiang Garden Part of a successful Taiwanese restaurant chain. Impressive seafood. 2200 — 4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8858. $$

Sun Sui Wah Impressive way with seafood. 4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8208. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Giraffe Charming place, eclectic West Coast menu. 15053 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-6878. $$/$$$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

SQUAMISH AND WHISTLER

Apres Quiet and intimate. Refined regional cuisine. 4338 Main St., Whistler, 604-935-0220. $$$

Araxi Restaurant & Bar Handsome Tuscan looks, regional cuisine. Outstanding wine list. 4222 Village Square, Whistler, 604-932-4540. $$/$$$

Fifty Two 80 Bistro Every dish a ‘wow’. Gorgeous room. Four Seasons Hotel, 4591 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, 604-935-3400. $$$

Quattro at Whistler Contemporary Italian cuisine. 4319 Main St., Whistler, 604-905-4844. $$/$$$

Trattoria di Umberto Tucked away from the throngs but always packed.Lovely affordable Italian food. 4417 Sundial Place, 604-932-5858. $$/$$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

He aims to be a Michelin restaurant but doesn’t have their resources, experience

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Sometimes (apologies to poet Robert Browning) a man’s reach should not exceed his grasp. Sure, it’s great to strive, dream and be ambitious, but when it comes to restaurants, there’s little wiggle room for error and forgiveness.

Connor Butler, chef/owner of his namesake restaurant, has, I think, exceeded his grasp. Too bad, because when ambition and skill set line up, he’s good. I’ve seen it at Pearl on The Rock in White Rock and was impressed with his finely tuned bistro style food.

At Butler’s own restaurant, he is trying to recreate something like the magic of Michelin restaurants he visited on a recent trip to Europe. But Butler, 28, doesn’t have the resources, experience or the slave labour these European restaurants have enjoyed to pull it off. He really needs to work in some of those kitchens for mastery of such highly refined meals. (He has, however, cooked at Bacchus and C restaurants in Vancouver.) “What I really wanted to do,” he explains, “is create a Parisian dining salon or a Russian tea room.”

He offers two tasting menus — a 10-course meat and fish (omnivore) and a 10-course vegetarian (herbivore) — as well as a three-course prix fixe, costing $130, $100 and $70, respectively. Not quite Michelin restaurant prices, or even Lumiere, but pricey enough to set up high expectations and a firing squad of critics.

He does have the passion, I’ll grant him that. And he’s got the energy befitting a singer in a heavy metal band — which he has been. He sports an early Meatloaf (the rocker) style ponytail. It’s perplexing, though, that a musician would pay so little attention to the mood-enhancing power of music. When we visited, the quiet room was in need of buzz but what we heard was gloomy Wagnerian-style classical and then, hard to believe, Jingle Bell Rock — jaunty, but unbelievably wrong. Quiet jazz would quickly heal that wound.

For dinner, my partner ordered the $130 menu and I, the $70 three-course prix fixe, where I chose courses from several offerings. But by meal’s end, I’d had as many as 10 courses, as the kitchen (Butler) doesn’t like having a partner salivating while the other lustily eats. When you add up the courses plus the complementary dishes, it adds up to a lot of food, and a lot of detail work in the kitchen.

It’s plain to see he loves to cook. But what’s missing is the “wow,” the “pow” in flavour, colour and presentation, even on the ornate Versace dishes by Rosenthal. (“It’s loud, like I am,” Butler laughs about the pattern.)

He does showcase great ingredients — prawns, king crab, foie gras, lobster, truffle-stuffed pork belly — but the dishes don’t all sing with flavour. He buys organic wherever possible, like Kobe beef and Berkshire pork.

I cheered at the “Smoke on the Med,” which was presented under a small glass dome; when the server lifted the dome, a plume of verbena smoke burst free. “It’s done with laser beams,” he jokes, then explains it’s done with a bong (usually used with hash or marijuana). “I purchased it in Spain,” says Butler, a whiz consumer on eBay and Craig’s List. While at Pearl on The Rock, he bought a candy-floss machine to make garnishes; he sourced this restaurant’s antique silverware from various estate sales and had them replated.

“It’s my guerrilla attack, trying to get as much for as little as possible. I come from an antique dealing background,” he says.

My starter of side stripe prawns with greens was lovely and beautifully fresh; my main dish, a galantine of hen with lobster potato salad and sauce Robert would have been delicious but the bird was overcooked and dry.

My partner’s omnivore menu included Prawns Marie Rose; Foie Gras with Apple Cake and Grapes (peeled) in White Port; Lobster with Noodles and Sauce Bigarade; King Crab in Albufera Chaud Froid (a sauce); Truffle-stuffed Pork Belly.

Desserts were enjoyable, I was barely conscious from having eaten so much. The Pistachio Mille Feuille with bitter chocolate tuiles and macerated cherries was a sculpturally elegant and delicious to demolish. I had to skip the petit fours of cassis jelly, shortbread, truffles and biscotti lest I explode.

Browning said something else, which might be fitting. “How sad and bad and mad it was. But then, how it was sweet.” That’s pretty much it.

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CONNOR BUTLER

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 3

Service: 4

Price: $$$

2145 Granville St., 604-734-2145. Open for dinner only.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Georgian baker making a name for himself in Vancouver with authentic European bakery

Mia Stainsby
Sun

The last time I wrote about European Breads and Bakery, I told you about their Georgian baguette made here and sold in Vancouver stores like Whole Foods, Capers, Famous Foods and other stores. The irregular alligator shape, the little tug of war it engages with the teeth are marks of hand-crafted artisan bread. Sliced open, it makes a wonderful sandwich, welcoming all fillings.

At the home base, on Fraser Street, you can find these alligator breads already made into sandwiches. Owner Otari Kobalia, a native of Georgia (itself sandwiched between Russia and Turkey), has breadmaking in his genes. His mother’s family name translates to Miller and he calls breadmaking an “emotional process.”

At his bakery/deli, you’ll find Georgian baguette sandwiches with hummus, turkey, ham, veggie chicken or BLT fillings. Team it with Russian borscht and you’ve got lunch for about $9.

The deli case also holds Georgian cheese pies ($2.50). He couldn’t get the Georgian cheese for it but replicates it with a mix of feta, mozzarella and cottage cheese. The samsa is a close ringer to samosa but the spices differ. You can get it with pumpkin, chicken or beef fillings.

Pyrogies are handmade, he says, with a choice of turkey, beef, pork, potato or potato-cheese fillings.

As well, there is a display case full of pastries, including a vegan apple pie made at low temperature and made with healthy ingredients, like grape oil and organic cane sugar. The Napolean cake, he says, was created to commemorate the 1812 Russian battle where Napolean was run out of town.

See www.europeanbreads.com for shops where Georgian baguettes are available.

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AT A GLANCE

European Breads and Bakery

4324 Fraser St., 604-879-5177.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006