It’s modelled on a 1950s theme with photos of Marilyn, Elvis and other stars

Mia Stainsby
Sun

How does that song go? Leave your worry on the doorstep. Just direct your feet to the sunny side of the street.

Sunshine Diner did that two years ago.

It sat on the south side of West Broadway for 36 years. Two years ago, the present owner (who’s run it for the last 13) moved it a block east on the north side of the street — a sunnier side and, as I learned, less fumy.

Seems having a bus stop right in front of the original place was problematic in that way.

Now it’s basking in afternoon sun and has a patio for sun worshippers.

The diner, if you’re a stranger to the place, is modelled around a 1950s theme, with photos of stars from the silver screen — Marilyn, Elvis, Gable. It pops with colour — red and blue on the walls, black and white tiles on the floor and lots (too many) of Coca Cola signs. You sit in booths. It’s family-friendly with a menu featuring all-day breakfasts, sandwiches and 12 burgers. The burgers, I would add, taste real — made with 85 per cent lean ground. “We use six ounces of meat. Not two ounces, not four ounces. Six ounces!” says owner Dimitri Pantsios.

The Fat Elvis burger is a customer favourite, with bacon, cheese and avocado atop the regular burger. Fries are made from scratch. Burgers run $7 to $10 and sandwiches are $5.45 to $9.45. The clubhouse, Pantsios says, contains hot grilled chicken breast. “A lot of restaurants use cold turkey. It doesn’t make sense.”

Breakfasts, which include pancakes and bennies are $5.95 to $11.45.

The place is open seven days a week, daytime only.

– – –

SUNSHINE DINER

2649 West Broadway, 604-733-7717

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

After making a success of Fish Cafe in Kerrisdale, owner-chef Marcus Stiller has branched out to Fourth Avenue

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Perchance you entertain notions of opening a restaurant, fantasizing about a life as something of a who’s who, admired and making tons of money. Well, let me introduce you to Marcus Stiller and the real stuff of running a restaurant.

He’s opened his second restaurant, Fish, a spin-off of Fish Cafe in Kerrisdale. This one’s on high-traffic Fourth Avenue in Kits, and Stiller oversees both kitchens. At the new one, he’s cooking seven days a week.

No rest for the wicked, huh? I ask.

“I’m trying to build,” he says. Did I detect a hint of exhaustion? Stiller is a big man — a big, big man, belying time for trips to the gym.

A seafood restaurant, like a fish shop, first and foremost, must smell of the sea or not at all. Fishy smells are well, fishy as to how long it’s been waiting for you to come and eat it. At Fish, it’s not fishy, a good first-sign as you walk in. Given that the place specializes in fish, it’s got the necessary turnover, as long as there are customers. Stiller has shipments six days a week.

The menu is really simple, following what’s worked out fine in Kerrisdale. There are choices of calamari, mussels, crab cakes, fish burger, fish and chips, crab or prawn curry as well as entrees of salmon, halibut or prawns with a choice of four sauces and rice or french fries. You choose how you want your entree cooked — grilled, deep-fried or blackened. And there’s usually a special, depending on what’s fresh and available from the supplier.

All of what I tasted — from the calamari, to whole trout, to halibut and snapper and fish burger — were indeed fresh and not overcooked, one of the major hurdles to get over cooking fish.

The french fries were notably good, apparently fried in clean oil at the right temperature. They were still sizzling hot, crisp and tasty. A little bit of salt and I was impressed.

The food is served in metal fry pans lined with newsprint, as it is in the Kerrisdale location. There was no liquor when I visited but they now have the licence and have one red, two whites and seven beers, which isn’t adequate, but he’s building up to eight whites and five reds.

The desserts were noticeably good when I visited but alas, the pastry chef is no longer there. But I did enjoy his lighter than light lemon tart and cherry clafouti. Stiller says they’ve been replaced by his chocolate torte, and plum upside down cake.

Once this summer’s red tide warnings are behind us, Stiller plans to open an oyster bar in the new spot. Right now, there’s a mix of seatings — a communal table, window counter seats, deuces and four tops.

The menu is on a blackboard on two sides of the room and it’s garnering interest. People peered into the window, noses pressed to the glass many times as we sat having our meal, feeling somewhat like zoo animals.

– – –

FISH

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 3

Service: 3

Price $

2278 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-3474.

Open seven days a week, 11:30 to 9:30.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Mondo Vino serves an impressive list of wines and a tasty array of tapas

Michelle Hopkins
Sun

Longing for a flatteringly lit bar with cushy chairs without having to head downtown? Raise your wineglasses to Steveston’s newest little gem — Mondo Vino at Papi’s. What we have here is a wonderful addition to the neighbourhood. The wine bar — nestled in the heart of Steveston village, beside its signature Papi’s Ristorante Italiano — is inviting with its Neo-classical design combined with fabulous Italian accents and warm milk coffee tones adorning the walls. You might think you are in a Tuscan villa.

The real estate boom happening in Steveston brings with it young, urban professionals and boomers with disposable income — Mondo Vino has given us a much needed little suburban wine bar with New York chic.

Ken Iaci, along with partner Steve Ward, have done it again.

If the night we were there is any indication, they have a winner on their hands.

The place was jammed with good-looking, well-dressed locals and destination seekers from across the Lower Mainland.

The power of Mondo Vino — besides the wine list that boast more than 175 selections by the glass from the best wine regions in the world — lies partly in the restaurant’s signature El Fresco tapas. It also lies in the impressive list of California and French wines that Iaci and Ward have assembled.

“We are offering a rare and limited edition wine selection as well,” says Ward. “We have some going back to early California [’80s] and second and third growth wines and other rare wines.”

From Burgundies to Bordeaux, to Sonoma and Napa, there’s a wine for even the most discerning wine aficionado.

Pair these wonderful wines with mouth-watering tapas such as: the clay pot caramelized chicken with shallots and ginger (to die for), the porcupine prawns with a sweet chili dip (try to eat just one), fresh crab tarragon tart with rustic tomato sauce, and the duck comfit cake with sundried compote (it will make you salivate).

Iaci told me that he purposely created a menu that was different from Papi’s.

“I wanted to offer our clientele something different and unique,” says Iaci.

Because this is a wine bar, you have to try the three-ounce wine flights, which enable you to compare a variety of wines from different regions of the world — each a selection of three samples.

My partner went for a choice of whites and I, red.

She started with a B.C. Lang Reisling and Grand Pinot and a Rosemount Traminer/Reisling.

Chilled to perfection, she was hard-pressed to choose which was her favourite.

My flight included a Thornhaven Pinot Noir, a Veramonte Cabernet and a Barossa Valley Shiraz. The wines were well paired with the tapas.

Our server, Colin Cruikshank, reminded me that they also serve “mean” fresh-fruit margaritas, using only in-season fruit. As we spoke, he was busily making up a mango margarita. It looked delicious, especially on the hot evening we visited.

The tapas menu paired with the extensive wine selection promises to make this a fun, experimental and international experience.

The night we were there, patrons spilled outside where a few seats and a couple of tables were available. Mondo Vino at Papi’s seats 30 comfortably inside.

– – –

MONDO VINO

At Papi’s wine and tapas bar (attached to Papi’s Ristorante Italiano)

12231 No. 1 Rd., Richmond, 604-275-8355.

Open daily (closed Sundays) from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Monday to Thursday), until midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Menu’s chicken is a confit with pomegranate syrup and summer cassoulet, while halibut is all about a wonderful piece of fish

Mia Stainsby
Sun

On False Creek the sailboat halyards are slapping, the sweet sun is making its slow descent to the horizon. It’s a glorious Vancouver moment. Then I notice some weird Hitchcockian thing.

Murders of crows, flying in one direction. This odyssey of masses of the black birds continues for the duration of my meal. Curious, I go online afterwards. Crows, it seems, sleep communally and, at dusk, up to 10,000 of them, scattered during the day, head to their roost in Burnaby, near Willingdon and the freeway exit, where they blacken the sky as they prepare to hit the sack.

I spent a good part of one of my meals at this lovely little bistro in awe, with head tilted skyward, witnessing this amazing daily journey, reflecting on how little I know of bird life, except that the crows that have been awakening me at 5 a.m. recently, with their raucous cawing outside the house.

Back on the ground, I was noticing something, too. Ocean 6 Seventeen recently regrouped, with Sean Cousins becoming part owner and chef. It is now a perfect little neighbourhood bistro, only the ‘hood in this case will stretch far and wide with Cousins taking charge.

He is former chef at Raincity Grill and sous chef at C and, most recently, chef at the Vancouver Club. His menu imparts clues. It says he’s accomplished, beyond needing to prove himself, and he cuts to the chase — great ingredients, nurtured to be at their best. There’s no verbal flamboyance. The menu reads: Chicken. Halibut. Salmon. Tuna. Beef. Pasta. And so on. Underneath, there’s a brief description of ingredients.

He calls it bistro food, which it is and it isn’t. Bistro cooking doesn’t have such clean edges or tastes or refined techniques. But Cousins’ food is certainly accessible and affordable, with dinner mains costing $17 to $27.

The fact that some regulars come in for lunch and dinner on the same day would attest to that.

“Scallop” is a tidy assemblage — a disc of baby potato salad crowned with slices of scallop ceviche, the plate dotted with tiny cubes of pancetta. Crab comes up as a dynamite roll, lightly battered and lightly deepfried. Squid, battered and deepfried, looks like origami. Boar is encased in wuntun and served in a broth — maybe better suited for cold weather.

Chicken (organic) is a confit with pomegranate syrup and a summer cassoulet. The trout is fileted, and served atop a delicious shrimp risotto. Halibut was served with some pan-fried veggies, very pristine. It was all about a wonderful piece of halibut. Pork is served two ways — a paprika-crusted loin and a pulled shoulder, handled so well that it’s as light as down.

Desserts are worth trying — and there’s a cheese selection, if one prefers. Pastry chef Virginia Jensen’s special one day, a peach crumble, paid homage to a simple dessert with delicious peaches. A chocolate trio wasn’t completely successful — s’mores, I think, are better left at the campfire; they just don’t reconfigure, translate, deconstruct into anything quite like the real thing. The pot au creme, with salmon berries atop, was too dense, approaching truffle-like consistency; but the chocolate flake sorbet was good.

Service depends on who you get. While one was cheerful, helpful, very well-informed and keen about wine, another wasn’t particularly welcoming or responsive.

The patio is the place to be, with seawall, marina and condos surrounding you, although it intersects with the stairway from Stamp’s Landing pub, so you occasionally get customers drifting through as they leave.

All in all, Ocean 6 Seventeen is a place to steal away to, a little off the beaten track. A gem.

– OCEAN 6 SEVENTEEN

Overall Rating 4

Food Rating 4 1/2

Ambience Rating 3 1/2

Service Rating 3 1/2

Price $$

617 Stamps Landing. 604-879-6178. Open 7 days a week for lunch, dinner and week-end brunch.

Salt offers a classy version of a ploughman’s lunch. And, it’s the first of its kind in Vancouver

Mia Stainsby
Sun

Too eager to wait, I went in only a week after Salt Tasting Room opened. It’s a new concept for Vancouver and Sean Heather, Gastown’s grand food poobah, has done a great job of it.

He already claims paternity to Irish Heather, Salty Tongue, Shebeen and Limerick, all popular, all easy-going and fun but with sibling differences. Salt would be the first that could be called sexy with its modernist lines, Alt Pop music and trend-setter moves.

I loved Salt and, really, I shouldn’t. As one who tries to appease the migraine beast, I tread gingerly around the specializations here — cheeses and cured meats. But as I say when I’m in France, mowing my way through the nation’s cheeses, I can’t let head-banger migraines keep me from life’s great pleasures now, can I?

I could say Salt offers ploughman’s lunches or deli plates, but that would be a lie. It’s a very classy version of them. Maybe the French charcuterie or Italian salumeria would be a more appropriate comparison.

Salt Tasting Room is like a guerrilla space-shuttle re-entry. It makes a bold first move into Blood Alley, where businesses have long departed, leaving an edgy drug-influenced culture behind. And there’s a lot more to follow with other new developments going in. (Salt is in a progressive, green building with grass roof and geothermal heating.)

One of the reasons Salt appeals is the umami factor — umami being that fifth taste we never knew we had until scientists affirmed it. It’s the savoury taste found in fermented and aged foods, as in cured meats and cheeses. Umami is seductive. At Salt, the naked, elemental flavours of cheese and thin sheets of cured meats, accessorized with condiments, reel you in quickly and mercilessly.

Coincidentally, it’s said that the glutamates behind this umami taste are intensified with salt — Heather had named the place Salt because the substance is used in making cured meats and cheese.

On the first visit, you learn the drill. On a giant blackboard, there are three columns. Cheese, Meat and Condiments. There are about 10 items in each column and they are fleet-footed — there one day, and not, the next. For $15, you order three items from each column and they arrive matched according to taste with a cheat sheet. For about $10 more, you can order a tasting flight of wines or sherries (the place is big on sherries), which also come with a cheat sheet telling you what’s what. It’s labour intensive for the service staff, writing down nine items per person but then, the kitchen gets off easily, doesn’t it.

Here’s the other thing — Heather scored a tag team of the city’s ace names in mixology — Chris Stearns (former Lumiere bar manager) and Jay Jones (former West and Nu bar manager), hired to run the front of the house as manager and assistant manager and as often as not, doing the waiter thing. They’re a dream team from the point of view of sales and for the customer too, with their contagious enthusiasm in promoting different drinks. All wines come by the glass and in taster size so you can make up your own flight.

I like the opportunity to try out new cheeses and artisanal cured meats. I don’t order cheese plates at restaurants because by the end of the meal, I’m usually too full for any more umami. Here, you make a meal or snack of a few lovely cheeses, meats and condiments with bread and wine.

Heather buys his meats from small producers like Oyama Sausage, JN&Z Deli, British Butcher and Seattle’s Salumi (celebrity chef Mario Batali’s dad’s shop). A little goes a long way since the food is so protein-rich. Sausages are sliced paper-thin and there’s just enough cheese to satisfy your curiosity.

Under condiments, you must try the Spanish pressed fig bread if it’s there. I loved the combination of St. Andre cheese with Similkameen honeycomb — for my husband it triggered flashes of honey and butter sandwich memories. Team it with the Spanish pressed fig bread and it’s heaven. The Jeff Van Geest cognac-flavoured terrine (he of Aurora Bistro) is lovely, as are the paper-thin sheets of smoked pork tenderloin.

There are a couple of desserts so far, made in the Irish Heather kitchen — the chocolate ricotta mousse is a like chocolate velvet.

Salt is the first of its kind, at least in Vancouver, and now I’m waiting for a cheese-only tasting bar, migraines be damned.

SALT TASTING ROOM

Overall: 4

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 4

Service: 4

Price: $/$$

45 Blood Alley. 604-633-1912. Open 4:30 p.m. to midnight every evening. (Open for lunch in future.) www.salttastingroom.com

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Critic’s Picks

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby.

Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s Consistently one of the city’s best. Almost 100 per cent organic foods. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Diner Great comfort food in contemporary setting. 1269 Hamilton St., 604-444-4855. $/$$

Feenie’s Comfort food with a modern tweak and quality ingredients. 2563 West Broadway, 604-739-7115. $/$$

Fiction Young crowd, great tapas dishes. 3162 West Broadway, 604-736-7576. $$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Rare An impressive, unique menu. There’s passion here. 1355 Hornby St., 604-669-1256. $$$

ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

Borgo Antico Tuscan looks. Fine Italian food. 321 Water St., 604-683-8376. $$/$$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$

La Terrazza Knock-out looks, intelligent and friendly staff, traditional Italian food. 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449. $$$

Lombardo’s Pizzeria and Restaurant Serving pizza lovers for years. 1641 Commercial Dr., 604-251-2240. $

CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Szechuan Chongqing An institution for those who love the incendiary fare. 2808 Commercial Dr., 604-254-7434. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

JAPANESE

1215 Japanese tapas. Experimentation rules in the kitchen. 1215 Davie St., 604-633-1215. $/$$

Ajisai Sushi Bar Small neighbourhood spot with sushi that sings. 2081West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428. $

Chopstick Cafe/Shiru-Bay Great atmosphere, intriguing izakaya food, budget prices. 1193 Hamilton St., 604-408-9315. $$

En Japanese Restaurant Bucks the usual conformity of Japanese restaurants. Splendid food. 2686 Granville St., 604-730-0330. $$

Sushi Wabi Sabi Exciting contemporary Japanese food. 4422 West 10th Ave., 604-222-8188. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 202 — 777 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Cafe de Paris Traditional French bistro. Lots of character. 751 Denman St., 604-687-1418. $$

Cassis Bistro Low budget but mod interior. Delicious traditional French bistro fare. Good value. 420 West Pender St., 604-605-0420. $$

The Hermitage Beautifully controlled classic French cooking. Quiet atmosphere. 1025 Robson St., 604-689-3237. $$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Simpatico Thirty-plus years old; traditional Greek restaurant with the addition of good pizzas. 2222 West Fourth Ave., 604733-6824. $/$$

INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Chutney Villa South Indian cuisine, with dosas, idli and vadas. 147 East Broadway, 604-872-2228. $/$$

Clove An alternative Indian restaurant, funky, cheap beyond belief. 2054 Commercial Dr., 604-255-5550. $

Clove Upscale sibling to Clove on Commercial. Modern Indian cuisine. 735 Denman St., 604-669-2421. $/$$

Indica Indian dishes with western tweaks. Charming. 1795 Pendrell St., 604-609-3530. $

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

Yogi’s Hip, contemporary Indian food, perfect for The Drive. 1408 Commercial Dr., 604-251-9644. $

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Pondok Authentic Indonesian dishes, freshly cooked. 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$

Salathai Thai Dishes are freshly prepared and consistent. 3364 Cambie St., 604-875-6999. $$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Go Fish Fab fish and chips and much more, dished out of a catering truck, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

AMERICAN

Memphis Blues Barbecue House Slow-cooked, southern style BBQ. Delish. 1465 West Broadway, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599. $

VEGETARIAN

Greens and Gourmet Meals priced by weight. Flavours from around the world. 2582 West Broadway, 604-737-7373. $

Habibi’s Lebanese food. Not the same old, same old. 1128 West Broadway, 604-732-7487. $

The Naam Wide variety of vegetarian fare. Quiet patio in summer. 2724 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-7151. $

Raw Raw veggie and fruit dishes (preserves enzymes) as well as cooked. Food is 80 to 90 per cent organic. 1849 West First Ave., 604-737-0420. $

LATIN AMERICA

Banano’s No-frills Venezuelan/Colombian cafe. Delicious arepas. 1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228. $

Baru Casually chic South American food for discerning diners. 2535 Alma St., 604-222-9171. $$

Mexico Rico A slice of Mexico. Very inexpensive, authentic Mexican cafe. 309 West Pender St., 604-688-7426. $

Rinconcito Salvadorean Restaurant Fresh Salvadorean cuisine. Lovely pupusas. 2062 Commercial Dr., 604-879-2600. $

MEDITERRANEAN

Circolo Italian, French, and a little bit of New York. Awesome wine list. 1116 Mainland, 604-687-1116. $$$

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Mythos Whitewashed walls, azure blue trim say “sun-drenched Greece.” 1811 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-984-7411. $$

BURNABY/NEW WEST

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Orange Room Casual tapas. International flavours. 620 Sixth Ave., New Westminster, 604-520-6464. $$

RICHMOND

Bo Kong Restaurant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. No alcohol. 8100 Ackroyd Rd., Richmond, 604-278-1992. $

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Crescent Beach Bistro Rustic country spot. Straight ahead food. 12251 Beecher St., 604-531-1882. $$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Parking your butt cleavage at Republic requires a high-decibel conversation. If loud music and an under-30 crowd sounds appealing, head on down and try its tasty nosh

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A young blond, perched on a tall barstool, flashes butt cleavage like a peacock displays its feathers. Two suits perched a couple of seats away cop glances and when she leaves, they burst into schoolboy laughter. Hand gestures give an imaginary squeeze to the departed bottom. Eee-yewww.

It’s my second visit to Republic and both times, I’m an alien. Or so it seemed. I just wanted to get back on my spaceship and like ET, go home.

But it’s me. Middle-aged, anti-bum cleavage, noise-sensitive me. Republic is a restaurant/pub/lounge intended for a younger audience who can tolerate high-decibel conversation, umpteen flat-screen TVs and loud music. And there is a market for upscale watering holes like Republic. Next to us, a table of 10 work colleagues drink beers and wine, nosh on starters and have a good time. We were one of the few people having a full meal.

On the first visit, we sat upstairs. I worried about plunging 20 feet to the main floor from my high stool next to the railing. “What if?” I posed to my husband. “Can I finish watching the game if that happens?” he queried, clearly not as alienated as I.

The second floor of this late-night establishment morphs into a clubby scene with DJs and dancing as night falls.

As far as the food is concerned, it’s better than most pub food and priced just as reasonably. The offerings are a mix of pub-style casual dishes and more substantial ones like the grilled lamb rack with roasted green apple, walnut, mint salad and blue cheese fritters and the barbecued wild salmon fillet with warm potato salad, ancho chili and lime barbecue sauce. The lamb, by the way, is very well priced at $18 and nicely prepared.

Thumbs up also to the calamari and an arugula salad with charred vine tomatoes, although the parmesan shavings were not too tasty.

Despite my plan not to finish the “Fat Hamburger And Skinny Fries”, my plate, somehow, was cleaned out. A little dry, the burger did need a few whacks from the bottles of condiments permanently placed on the tables. A porcini ravioli with a mustard cream sauce was yummy. When we ordered the grilled butter chicken sausages, the server squealed in delight. “I’m so excited for you!” said the server, who probably does the equivalent of two Grouse Grinds by the end of shift — the kitchen is on level two and the stairs have three landings.

I wasn’t thrilled with the coconut wild salmon fish sticks — not the best use of salmon and the hoisin marinated short ribs were too leathery and chewy. A warm chocolate and amaretti cake held no sway with its damp, doughy texture but the vanilla bean gelato beside it was good.

Republic is one of many holdings under the Donnelly Group. The small dynasty of pub-bar-lounge-style facilities started with Bimini’s Tap House on West Fourth wa-ay back when but now includes Bar None, Denman Freehouse, Granville Room and Library Square Public House. Granville Room probably had some of the better food on Granville Mall, until the swanky Sanafir set up shop a few blocks away.

If you’re a sports fiend, or under 30 and want to cut loose with friends, the night-time Republic is for you. Lunch would have more mass appeal, drawing office workers and shoppers with a nice selection of sandwiches, salads, pasta and starters.

– Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.

– – –

REPUBLIC

Overall: 3

Food: 3 1/2

Ambience: 3

Service: 3

Price $$

958 Granville St., 604-669-3266.

Open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., every day.

www.republicbar.ca

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Critic’s Picks

Mia Stainsby
Sun

A list of restaurants recommended and anonymously visited by Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby.

Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each, before tip and taxes.

$ means $50 or less

$$ means $50 to $100

$$$ means more than $100

– – –

WEST COAST

Aurora Bistro The first fine dining room on Main St. Inventive food, hip spot. 2420 Main St., 604-873-9944. $$

Bishop’s Consistently one of the city’s best. Almost 100 per cent organic foods. 2183 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-2025. $$$

Bin 941 Tapas bar in tiny eclectic space. 941 Davie St., 604-683-1246. $$/$$$

Bin 942 Creative, delectable tapas dishes. 1521 West Broadway, 604-734-9421. $$/$$$

Bridges For fine dining, head upstairs, and for casual, try the downstairs bistro. 1696 Duranleau, 604-687-4400. $$/$$$

Brix Large tapas selection, 60 wines by the glass. 1138 Homer St., 604-915-9463. $$/$$$

Chartwell Beautiful food, wonderful service. Four Seasons Hotel, 791 West Georgia St. 604-689-9333. $$$

Cru Blurs the lines of fine dining, lounge and bistro. Lovely “small plates” or a four-course prix fixe. 1459 West Broadway, 604-677-4111. $$

Diner Great comfort food in contemporary setting. 1269 Hamilton St., 604-444-4855. $/$$

Diva at the Met High-end food, gorgeously presented. Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe St., 604-602-7788. $$$

Feenie’s Comfort food with a modern tweak and quality ingredients. 2563 West Broadway, 604-739-7115. $/$$

Fiction Young crowd, great tapas dishes. 3162 West Broadway, 604-736-7576. $$

Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar Hip, happening destination. Creative chef. 1079 Mainland St., 604-602-0835. $$

Lift Bar and Grill Gorgeously perched over Coal Harbour. Sibling to Monk McQueen’s. 333 Menchions Mews, 604-689-5438. $$$

Lucy Mae Brown Intimate space, assertive dishes. 862 Richards St., 604-899-9199. $$

Lumiere Tasting Bar The casual sidekick to famous sibling, Lumiere, next door. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$/$$$

Nu A sophisticated version of casual dining. Beautiful flavours, great atmosphere. 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. $$

Parkside Handsome room in residential West End, richly flavoured food. Great spot. 1906 Haro, 604-683-6912. $$/$$$

Raincity Grill A Vancouver moment by English Bay. Regional food. 1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337. $$$

Rare An impressive, unique menu. There’s passion here. 1355 Hornby St., 604-669-1256. $$$

Show Case West Coast menu that doesn’t shy from adventure. Vancouver Marriott Pinnacle Hotel, 1128 West Hastings St., 604-639-4040. $$$

Watermark Stunning Kits Beach view, sexy architecture, casual food. 1305 Arbutus St., 604-738-5487. $$

West Vies for best restaurant in the city. 2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938. $$$

ITALIAN

Amarcord Food from the Bologna and Emilia Romagna area of Italy, elegantly presented. Clear, natural flavours. 1168 Hamilton St., 604-681-6500. $$

Borgo Antico Tuscan looks. Fine Italian food. 321 Water St., 604-683-8376. $$/$$$

CinCin Restaurant and Bar Seasonal menu with wood-fired dishes. Notable desserts. 1154 Robson St., 604-688-7338. $$/$$$

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill Fine Italian cuisine with a light touch. 1133 Hamilton St., 604-688-7466. $$$

Don Francesco Ristorante Romantic, classic Italian restaurant with heart. 860 Burrard St., 604-685-7770. $$$

Il Giardino “New Italian” food, light with exotic elements. Big on game. 1382 Hornby St., 604-669-2422. $$$.

Incendio Great wood-oven pizzas, robust lineup of pastas. 103 Columbia St., 604-688-8694. $/$$

Incendio West Same as above, but in modern digs. 2118 Burrard St., 604-736-2220. $/$$

La Terrazza Knock-out looks, intelligent and friendly staff, traditional Italian food. 1088 Cambie St., 604-899-4449. $$$

Lombardo’s Pizzeria and Restaurant Serving pizza lovers for years. 1641 Commercial Dr., 604-251-2240. $

Quattro on Fourth An Italian restaurant with flair. 2611 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4444. $$/$$$

CHINESE

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Slurp noodles and chomp on delicious potstickers. Huge menu. 1339 Robson St., 604-685-0871. $

Imperial Seafood Fine Cantonese food, (expensive) in the lovely Marine Building. 355 Burrard St., 604-688-8191. $$$

Kirin Seafood Exquisite Cantonese food. City Square, 555 West 12th Ave., 604-879-8038. $$$

Pink Pearl It’s been around forever and is still a going concern. 1132 East Hastings St., 604-253-4316. $

Sun Sui Wah Cantonese cuisine with light, finely tuned flavours. 3888 Main St., 604-872-8822. $$

Szechuan Chongqing An institution for those who love the incendiary fare. 2808 Commercial Dr., 604-254-7434. $$

Wild Rice Modern Chinese food in a sophisticated, hip setting. 117 West Pender St., 604-642-2882. $$

JAPANESE

1215 Japanese tapas. Experimentation rules in the kitchen. 1215 Davie St., 604-633-1215. $/$$

Ajisai Sushi Bar Small neighbourhood spot with sushi that sings. 2081West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428. $

Bistro Sakana Exciting Japanese food with French and Italian curve balls. 1123 Mainland St., 604-633-1280. $$

Black Tuna Tapas style Japanese dishes, sushi, lovingly cooked. 202 — 1184 Denman St., 604-408-7557. $$

Chopstick Cafe/Shiru-Bay Great atmosphere, intriguing izakaya food, budget prices. 1193 Hamilton St., 604-408-9315. $$

En Japanese Restaurant Bucks the usual conformity of Japanese restaurants. Splendid food. 2686 Granville St., 604-730-0330. $$

Gyoza King Gyozas reign supreme. Open late. 1508 Robson St., 604-669-8278. $

Hapa Izakaya Young and stylish; great izakaya-style Japanese food. 1479 Robson St., 604-689-4272. $/$$

Japone Wonderfully inventive dishes on the ‘chef’s specials’ menu. 8269 Oak St., 604-263-6708. $$

Sushi Wabi Sabi Exciting contemporary Japanese food. 4422 West 10th Ave., 604-222-8188. $$

Tojo’s Restaurant The topper in this category. Japanese food at its best. 202 — 777 West Broadway, 604-872-8050. $$$

Toshi Sushi Tiny place always packed for the fresh, tasty sushi. 181 East 16th Ave., 604-847-5173. $/$$

Yuji’s Expect the unexpected. Food takes some creative turns. 2059 West Fourth Ave., 604-734-4990. $$

Zest Japanese Cuisine Grazing style modern Japanese menu in cool modern room. 2775 West 16th Ave., 604-731-9378. $$

FRENCH/BELGIAN

Bacchus Restaurant Some classics, some nouveau. Expect the best. Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777. $$$

Cafe de Paris Traditional French bistro. Lots of character. 751 Denman St., 604-687-1418. $$

Cassis Bistro Low budget but mod interior. Delicious traditional French bistro fare. Good value. 420 West Pender St., 604-605-0420. $$

Chambar Modern Belgian food. Hot hipster scene. Chef has cooked in a three-star Michelin restaurant. 562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119. $$

Elixir French brasserie in Yaletown; bistro food, haute quality. 322 Davie St., 604-642-0557. $$/$$$

Le Crocodile Refined French with incredible wines to boot. 909 Burrard St., 604-669-4298. $$$

Le Gavroche French food in a charming old house. 1616 Alberni St., 604-685-3924. $$$

The Hermitage Beautifully controlled classic French cooking. Quiet atmosphere. 1025 Robson St., 604-689-3237. $$$

Lumiere Chef Rob Feenie redefines restaurants in Vancouver. Tasting menus. 2551 West Broadway, 604-739-8185. $$$

Mistral Authentic Provencal food cooked by former Michelin chef. 2585 West Broadway, 604-733-0046. $$

Pastis French bistro with a lightness of being. 2153 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-5020. $$/$$$

Salade de Fruits Very good value French country bistro. 1551 West Seventh, 604-714-5987. $$

The William Tell A Swiss-French restaurant. Service excels. Georgian Court Hotel, 773 Beatty St., 604-688-3504. $$$

GREEK

Apollonia Well-prepared Greek food and very good pizzas. 1830 Fir St., 604-736-9559. $/$$

Bouzyos Greek Taverna Lively atmosphere, better than average Greek food. 1815 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2533. $$

Kalamata Greek Taverna A popular souvlaki stop dressed in the familiar white and blue. 478 West Broadway, 604-872-7050. $$

The Main Friendly, funky spot. Wonderful roast lamb. 4210 Main St., 604-709-8555. $$

Maria’s Taverna Friendly service. 2324 West Fourth Ave., 604-731-4722. $$

Simpatico Thirty-plus years old; traditional Greek restaurant with the addition of good pizzas. 2222 West Fourth Ave., 604733-6824. $/$$

Stepho’s Nightly lineups because of low prices. 1124 Davie St., 604-683-2555. $

INDIAN

Akbar’s Own Mogul-style Indian cuisine. 1905 West Broadway, 604-736-8180. $$

Chutney Villa South Indian cuisine, with dosas, idli and vadas. 147 East Broadway, 604-872-2228. $/$$

Clove An alternative Indian restaurant, funky, cheap beyond belief. 2054 Commercial Dr., 604-255-5550. $

Clove Upscale sibling to Clove on Commercial. Modern Indian cuisine. 735 Denman St., 604-669-2421. $/$$

Indica Indian dishes with western tweaks. Charming. 1795 Pendrell St., 604-609-3530. $

Maurya Fine Indian food in glam surroundings. 1643 West Broadway, 604-742-0622. $$$

Rangoli Vij’s casual and take-out next-door sidekick. Impressive. 1488 West 11th Ave., 604-736-5711. $

Samosa Garden Smooth sauces, lovely food, good service. 3502 Kingsway, 604-437-3502. $$

Tamarind A hip spin-off from the traditional Rubina Tandoori restaurant with modern elements. 1626 West Broadway, 604-733-5335. $$

Vij’s Dishes are a symphony of wondrous flavours. 1480 West 11th Ave., 604-736-6664. $$

Yogi’s Hip, contemporary Indian food, perfect for The Drive. 1408 Commercial Dr., 604-251-9644. $

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Banana Leaf Homestyle Malaysian food. 820 West Broadway, 604-731-6333 and 1096 Denman St., 604-683-3333. $$

Chi Modern take on Malaysian and Thai cuisines. 1796 Nanaimo St., 604-215-0078. $$

Kedah House Halal Restaurant Malaysian food with a light, nimble touch. 5750 Fraser St., 604-325-9771. $

Monsoon An “East-West” brasserie with tropical Asian dishes, loads of atmosphere. 2526 Main St., 604-879-4001. $$

Montri Thai Restaurant Some of the best Thai food in the city. 3629 West Broadway, 604-738-9888. $$

Phnom Penh Largely Cambodian but includes Chinese and Vietnamese flavours. 244 East Georgia St., 682-5777. $

Pondok Authentic Indonesian dishes, freshly cooked. 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$

Salathai Thai Dishes are freshly prepared and consistent. 3364 Cambie St., 604-875-6999. $$

Sawasdee Thai Gracious service keeps the regulars hooked. 4250 Main St., 604-876-4030. $$

Simply Thai On the A-list for Thai food. 1211 Hamilton St., 604-642-0123. $$

SEAFOOD

Bluewater Cafe and Raw Bar Handsome spot. Impressive seafood, impressive wine list. 1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078. $$$

C Chef Robert Clark takes seafood to a new level. 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164. $$$

Cannery Seafood Fine dining in rustic nautical decor on working waterfront. 2205 Commissioner St., 604-254-9606 $$$

Coast Restaurant Yaletown chic, shares kinship with Glowbal Grill and Satay. Seafood emphasis. 1157 Hamilton St., 604-685-5010. $$$

Fish Cafe Unpretentious, straight-ahead seafood at bargain prices. 2053 West 41st Ave., 604-267-3474. $

Fish House in Stanley Park Bold and imaginative seafood dishes by the creative Karen Barnaby. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., 604-681-7275. $$$

Go Fish Fab fish and chips and much more, dished out of a catering truck, made with fish from the adjacent Fisherman’s Wharf. 1505 West First Ave., 604-730-5040. $

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House Fresh shucked oysters, cedar plank salmon, grilled chops. High energy. 777 Thurlow St., 604-669-1940. $$$

Rodney’s Oyster House Specializes in very fresh shellfish and oysters. 1228 Hamilton St., 604-609-0080. $$

AMERICAN

Memphis Blues Barbecue House Slow-cooked, southern style BBQ. Delish. 1465 West Broadway, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599. $

VEGETARIAN

Bo Kong Buddhist-based menu using very fresh ingredients. Mild flavours. 3068 Main St., 604-876-3088. $

Greens and Gourmet Meals priced by weight. Flavours from around the world. 2582 West Broadway, 604-737-7373. $

Habibi’s Lebanese food. Not the same old, same old. 1128 West Broadway, 604-732-7487. $

The Naam Wide variety of vegetarian fare. Quiet patio in summer. 2724 West Fourth Ave., 604-738-7151. $

Om Vegetarian Flavourful, fresh Buddhist-based vegetarian food. 3466 Cambie St., 604-873-6878. $

Raw Raw veggie and fruit dishes (preserves enzymes) as well as cooked. Food is 80 to 90 per cent organic. 1849 West First Ave., 604-737-0420. $

LATIN AMERICA

Banano’s No-frills Venezuelan/Colombian cafe. Delicious arepas. 1223 Pacific Boulevard, 604-408-4228. $

Baru Casually chic South American food for discerning diners. 2535 Alma St., 604-222-9171. $$

Century Restaurant and Bar Modern Latin food, the best in town. Great space. 432 Richards St., 604-687-1280. $$/$$$

Havana Cuban food, tweaked for Commercial Drive. 1212 Commercial Dr., 604-253-9119. $

Latin Quarter Mexican and Mediterranean tapas dishes as well as music in the evenings. 1305 Commercial Dr., 604-251-1144. $$

Lolita’s South of the Border Cantina Casual Mexican food with sparkle. Lots of buzz in the room. 1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. $$

Mexico Rico A slice of Mexico. Very inexpensive, authentic Mexican cafe. 309 West Pender St., 604-688-7426. $

Rinconcito Salvadorean Restaurant Fresh Salvadorean cuisine. Lovely pupusas. 2062 Commercial Dr., 604-879-2600. $

Tio Pepe’s Yucatan food, nicely prepared. 1134 Commercial Dr., 604-254-8999. $

MEDITERRANEAN

Circolo Italian, French, and a little bit of New York. Awesome wine list. 1116 Mainland, 604-687-1116. $$$

Provence Mediterranean Grill The menu is a marriage of French and Italian. Lovely flavours. 4473 West 10th Ave., 604-222-1980 and 1177 Marinaside Cres., 604-681-4144. $$

EASTERN EUROPEAN, CENTRAL ASIAN

Accent Eastern European, French, Russian accents on a continental theme. 1967 West Broadway, 604-734-6660. $$

The Budapest Big doses of Hungarian comfort. Smouldering goulash soup. 3250 Main St. 604-877-1949. $

Rasputin Large selection of vodkas, wonderful live music and dishes such as grilled Georgian cornish game hen. 457 West Broadway, 604-879-6675.$$

NORTH SHORE

Beach House at Dundarave Pier Spectacular setting for brunch by Dundarave Beach. West Coast cuisine. 150 25th St., West Van, 604-922-1414. $$$

Beach Side Cafe Elegant room, summer patio, fine Italian cuisine. 1362 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-1945. $$$

Bistro 1734 Traditional French bistro food in warm, friendly setting. 1734 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-8198. $$

Bravo Cucina Traditional Italian, cooked with care. 1209 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-985-3006. $$

Brown’s Restaurant and Bar Casually chic and bustling bistro with burgers, rice bowls, entrees. 1764 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-929-5401. $/$$

Dundarave Fish Market Charming spot; fabulous seafood from the adjoining fish market. 2419 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-922-1155. $

Gusto Di Quattro Cosy, warm. Italian food. 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-924-4444 . $$/$$$

La Regalade A truly, deeply French bistro. Wonderful atmosphere. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-921-2228. $$/$$$

Mythos Whitewashed walls, azure blue trim say “sun-drenched Greece.” 1811 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-984-7411. $$

Nobu Tiny, with just enough room to make the lovely sushi. 3197 Edgemont Blvd.,North Van., 604-988-4553. $

Ocean Club Chic Yaletown-style lounge and restaurant. Food is imaginative and yummy. 100 Park Royal South, West Van, 604-926-2326. $$

Palki An Indian restaurant with a good grip on the spices. Fresh ingredients. 116 East 15th St., North Van, 604-986-7555. $$

Saltaire Gorgeous roof patio. Good value West Coast food. 2nd floor – 235 15th St., West Van, 604-913-8439. $$

Zen Japanese Restaurant Creative kitchen, quality ingredients. Good sake list. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. $$/$$$

BURNABY/NEW WEST

Anton’s Gargantuan portions of pasta. No reservations. 4260 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-6636. $$

Boat House Conservative seafood menu. Restaurant overlooks Fraser River. 900 Quayside, New Westminster, 604-525-3474. $$

Bombay Bhel Lovely Indian food. Menu features Mumbai-style snacks. 4266 Hastings St., 604-299-2500. $/$$

The Hart House In Tudor mansion. Exacting West Coast fare. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby, 604-298-4278. $$$

Orange Room Casual tapas. International flavours. 620 Sixth Ave., New Westminster, 604-520-6464. $$

Pear Tree Small menu, sublime continental food. 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, 604-299-2772. $$$

Taverna Greka Greek cuisine. View of Fraser River. 326 Columbia, New Westminster, 604-526-6651. $$

Vassili Souvlaki Greek Taverna Traditional Greek foods with no reticence when it comes to portions. 6558 Kingsway, Burnaby, 604-434-0626. $$

COQUITLAM, POCO, PORT MOODY

Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill Casual family retaurant. 550 Lougheed Hwy., Coquitlam, 604-939-3077

John B Pub Above-average pub food. 1000 Austin Ave., Coquitlam, 604-931-5115. $$

Kirin Seafood Restaurant Chinese food for the discriminating palate. 2nd floor, Henderson Place, 1163 Pinetree Way, Coquitlam, 604-944-8833. $$/$$$

Pasta Polo Organic wheat pastas, pizzas. Family restaurant. 2754 Barnet Highway, Coquitlam, 604-464-7656. $/$$

RICHMOND

Also Lounge and Restaurant A blend of Italian/French with Asian accents and high-end presentation. 4200 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-303-9906. $$

Big River Brewing Co. Pub, serving casual food. 14200 Entertainment Blvd., Richmond, 604-271-2739. $/$$

Bo Kong Restaurant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. No alcohol. 8100 Ackroyd Rd., Richmond, 604-278-1992. $

The Flying Beaver Bar Funky bar overlooking the Fraser River. 4760 Inglis Dr., Richmond, 604-273-0278. $/$$

Globe at YVR Impressive food, sleek contemporary decor with view of U.S. arrivals terminal. Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver Airport, Richmond, 604-248-3281. $$$

Hon’s Wun-Tun House Noodles and delicious pot stickers, panfried or steamed. 4600 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-273-0871. $

Quilon Restaurant Southern Indian cuisine with notably delicious dosas. 6030 No. 3 Road, Richmond, 604-303-0011. $$

The Rainbow Vegetarian Restaurant Deliciously prepared vegan and vegetarian Buddhist Chinese food. 8095 Park Road, Richmond, 604-273-7311. $

Shanghai River Shanghai style cuisine. Dumplings and noodles made in open kitchen. 7831 Westminster Highway, 604-233-8885. $$

Shiang Garden Part of a successful Taiwanese restaurant chain. Impressive seafood. 2200 — 4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8858. $$

Sun Sui Wah Impressive way with seafood. 4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-8208. $$

Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine Multi-coursed tasting menus and personalized dinners. Excellent. 2015 — 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-233-0077. $$$

SURREY, WHITE ROCK, DELTA, TSAWWASSEN

Big Ridge Brewing Co. A Mark James restaurant and brew-pub. Families welcome. 15133 Hwy. 10, Surrey, 604-574-2739. $$

Crescent Beach Bistro Rustic country spot. Straight ahead food. 12251 Beecher St., 604-531-1882. $$

Giraffe Charming place, eclectic West Coast menu. 15053 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-6878. $$/$$$

Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club West Coast cuisine. Hazelmere Golf and Tennis Club, 18150 — Eighth Ave., Surrey, 604-538-1212 $$/$$

La Belle Auberge In a heritage house in Ladner. Sublime French food. 4856 48th Ave., Ladner, 604-946-7717. $$$

Northview Golf and Country Club High-end dining, nestled amid acres of golf fairways. 6857 168th St., Surrey, 604-574-0324. $$$

Pearl on the Rock Modern Pacific Northwest cuisine with emphasis on seafood. Delicious fare. 14955 Marine Dr., White rock. 604-542-1064. $$$

Uli’s Restaurant Continental cuisine on busy restaurant strip. Water view. 15021 Marine Dr., White Rock, 604-538-9373. $$

FRASER VALLEY

Bacchus Bistro At Domain de Chaberton Estate Winery. Limited hours. Mediterranean food. 1064 — 216th St., Langley. 604-530-9694. $$

Bravo Bistro Swish little bistro, run by former Delilah’s restaurant veterans. 46224 Yale Rd., Chilliwack. 1-604-792-7721. $$

G.M. Restaurant Modest melodic with Indian food. 20726 Lougheed Highway, Maple Ridge, 604-463-7877. $

Paliotti’s Ristorante Italiano Cosy, old-fashioned Italian restaurant. Kids’ menu too. 12018 Edge St. (at Dewdney Trunk Rd.), Maple Ridge, 604-463-8926. $$

The Seasonal Experience Adrian Beaty runs an ambitious kitchen with a Throw Away the menu option. 20226 Fraser Highway, Langley, 604-514-1311. $$

SQUAMISH AND WHISTLER

Araxi Restaurant & Bar Handsome Tuscan looks, regional cuisine. Outstanding wine list. 4222 Village Square, Whistler, 604-932-4540. $$/$$$

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

A skillet or paintbrush. A guitar or a pair of scissors. Ordinary items but, in the hands of the people you see here and on the following page, they are tools to reckon with. Keep an eye on the artists and artisans on these pages; we think you’ll be hear

Mia Stainsby
Sun

UP-AND-COMING CHEFS

Poyan Danesh
Apprentice chef
Showcase Restaurant, Marriott Pinnacle Hotel

Poyan Danesh is on the ferry from Victoria, where he’s just finished taping Canada’s Next Great Chef, an 11-part televised junior cooking competition. He was one of the chefs competing but he’s not allowed to tell who’s won until the show goes to air early next year on Global.

He shows all the signs of someone to watch in our culinary scene. At 25, he’s “a star,” says Tobias MacDonald, chef de cuisine at La Belle Auberge in Delta. As a member of Team Canada last year, MacDonald has seen Danesh’s drive, ambition, energy and talent. The apprentice chef went as a support member to the World Culinary Masters in Basil, Switzerland last year. “When he leaves his current job, he’s got virtually any job he wants in this province,” MacDonald says. “Wherever we need him, whenever we need him, he’s there and that’s on top of his demanding work schedule.”

Danesh is cooking at Showcase at Marriott Pinnacle Hotel where his ambitions are being nurtured. In the three years since graduating from Vancouver Community College’s culinary program, he’s won several regional cooking competitions. In November, he’ll be a competitor in the Luxembourg Euro Expo.

“I hope to travel, see the world and cook with people who have a passion for food,” he says. “The future is kind of open,” he says. “It’s always open for chefs.”

Stephanie Noel
Sous chef, West

She came to Vancouver intending to stay a year to learn English and return to Quebec. Three years later, the 25-year-old Stephanie Noel finds herself sous chef to chef David Hawksworth at the much-acclaimed West restaurant.

She started at the lowest of cooking positions and her English, at the time, didn’t go much beyond “Where’s the bus station?” and “What’s your name?” Now she speaks fluently and she takes over the kitchen when Hawksworth is away.

“She’s very, very, very talented and I have absolute confidence in her,” he says. “She’s got leadership, drive and dedication and she could handle anything from doing this up to a 250-seat restaurant.” He has no doubt she could go to Europe and work in a three-star Michelin restaurant.

Noel is part of the creative process at West, says Hawksworth. “When spot prawns are in season, we’ll bounce ideas off each other, what’s been done before, what’s new and what we should be looking for, what goes on the menu. We’ll talk while we’re working and decide as a team. She contributes a lot.”

Noel plans to work at West for the next while but will eventually travel like every good chef should and ultimately, run her own place.

Laura Sharpe
Apprentice chef
Diva at the Met

While Poyan Danesh (in previous write-up) is a contender for Next Great Chef, Laura Sharpe currently holds the title. The 23-year-old won the national competition for junior chefs earlier this year against nine provincial finalists and last month, she was featured in Reader’s Digest as part of a “The Best of Canada” feature.

“It took a lot of determination,” she says, to win the competition, moving through two provincial competitions and then the national. It was very stressful and takes a toll on life.” She was working 40-hour weeks and planning and preparing and practising her moves. “There weren’t a lot of days off.”

Currently an apprentice at Diva At The Met, her boss Ray Henry applauds her dedication. “It took a lot of time and effort to do the competition and perform at that level,” he says. “We practised 12 full runs. It shows commitment. Her above-average talent, ability to learn, drive and commitment I think, is a perfect recipe for success.” In the kitchen, he calls her Laura Sharpe, Next Great Chef.

Sharpe, on the other hand, likes the idea of at some point in her career, teaching at a culinary school to give back a little of what she’s gotten from her mentors.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006

 

Grown up and much less out of control (than Joey Tomato’s), the flagship spot on West Broadway is calmer and classier

Mia Stainsby
Sun

The first time I met Joeys, it was in Calgary in the adolescent phase of its trajectory. It went by the name Joey Tomato’s Mediterranean Grill. My husband and I met a friend there, a visiting prof, who trustingly heeded a colleague’s suggestion. We spent the evening lip-reading through thunderous noise. Staff were encouraged to bellow across the room at each other and by evening’s end, we were hoarse despite having communicated very little.

Joeys on West Broadway, the flagship of 13 in the chain, is more grown up and much less an out-of-control teen. It is now in modern twenty-to-thirty-something mode and the look is calmer and classier. Instead of yelling, there are smiles and smiles and more smiles. Plain Jane and John servers obviously need not apply.

Joeys is owned by Jeff Fuller, of the restaurant empire family (Joeys, Earls restaurants) who run casual dining spots with military precision. Staff undergo 20 hours training to learn Joeys’ service philosophy, food and wine.

De rigeur for the times, there’s an ample lounge area next to the dining area with booth seatings. The brown-surround interior, with a rooftop patio hadn’t been given the all-clear for the hordes to ascend when I visited, but there’ll be mountain views, a cabana bar, water feature, lush greenery, and protection from rain, I’m told. I say ‘hordes’ because soon after opening just over a month ago, Joeys has been busy every night judging from the two weekday evenings I went. Obviously, there is a market following Joeys’ coming-of-age. It’s a little too cookie-cutter for me, but I can understand the mass appeal. Dishes are as comfy as a La-Z-Boy — nothing to surprise or come around the corner at you. The most creative dish, the California sushi taco, is comprised of two familiar elements. The Penang prawn curry is made hard to resist with coconut milk.

The attraction is the well executed M.O.R. (middle-of-the-road) experience in a well-appointed setting. Most of the menu is a cakewalk through dishes like lettuce wraps, chicken wings, entree salads, burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, steaks and chops, wok dishes and pastas. Sharing plates and appies cost $4 to $9 and entrees can range from $15 to $29.

Technically, the food is nicely presented but sometimes lacks flavour or brightness. The bento box with miso-glazed salmon, crab sushi taco, edamame and Asian coleslaw is one such dish. The crab sushi taco, a signature appy would be better as crab taco — rice and taco are not boon companions. Chinatown lettuce wrap might have appreciated a little hoisin flavour. The sweet chili chicken was very nice with little cubes of cucumber counterpointing the heat; dry ribs with Chinese five-spice induced me to eat way too much of it.

The shell-on chili prawns in chili garlic sauce requires that leap of faith needed to eat the shells. Do! It’s not at all scratchy.

I have no complaints with the entree meats and fish — a lamb chop mixed grill features a juicy, flavourful T-bone and rack; the peppercorn New York 12-ounce steak is juicy and tasty; grilled salmon was served with linguine with alfredo sauce, both nicely done.

The molten chocolate lava souffle is worth bursting a waistband explosion. Fork into a gusher of liquid chocolate and moosh it together with the ice cream next to it. The individual apple pie is a lie — it feeds four quite easily but alas, the apples weren’t really very apple-y.

In the beginning weeks, the room was crawling with service staff and the same in the kitchen. Dishes came out lickety split and sometimes, second courses arrived before we’d finished the first. But servers did have the time for attentive service with killer smiles.

Chris Mills oversees the chain-wide kitchens and definitely, you see quality control, if not the refined dishes of his days of haute cuisine at Diva at The Met. For what it is — a casual, fun, everyday restaurant, Joey’s has buzz and more than decent food.

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JOEYS

Overall: 3 1/2

Food: 3 1/2

Ambiance 3 1/2

Service 4

Price $$

1424 West Broadway, 604-732-5639, www.joeysrestaurants.com

Open 11 a.m. to midnight 7 nights a week.

© The Vancouver Sun 2006